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KZ400 Cafe (Noob, loves himself some advice)

14K views 69 replies 14 participants last post by  Architecterre 
#1 ·
Hey all, long time lurker and figured it was time to post up what I'm working on. Bought my first bike, a kz400 cafe racer project, off ebay for $232 (from the nicest guy) and picked her up in April. I tried to pick a project that had a lot of the "big ticket" custom bits completed as my technical skills are limited. Worked diligently on the bike throughout the summer but I had to head back to school in September so I have to postpone working on it till winter break.

How I received the bike + What I am currently in the process of modifying



What I've done to this point:

- I bought 33mm clip-on handlebars (replacing the inverted xs650? handlebars the previous owner had installed) allowing for me to shave the old handlebar clamps off of the top of the triple tree clamp (which I then polished). I bought replacement headlight clamps for the stock headlight ears and replaced the headlight entirely (melted it when stripping). Its now a chrome bates style headlight with a switch on top and an amber lense. I have since purchased fork gaitors/boots too since I like that particular look. I plan on making the forks stick through the top triple tree/yoke clamp about 1-1.5 inches because 1) I like the look, I think it will level out the custom speedo mount with the top of the triple tree, and I feel like it gives the bike a more agressive stance.

- I removed the old tires / tubes (at home with snips lol), bought a new spoke kit from Taiwan (thanks to DTT member "Finnegan" for the advice), stripped and polished each hub, drum, etc and relaced each rim to the best of my ability (both need to be trued). Replacing the stock tires with Shinko 712's (100/90/18 Front, 110/90/18 Rear) and new tubes (yet to do so)

- Took off all the engine covers (breather, clutch casing, starter motor cover, etc, etc) and stripped, sanded and polished them all (Starting to get the hang of polishing). Same for the brakes, master cylinder, handlebar controls/levers, petcock, chain tensioner, etc, etc, basically anything that can be stripped, sanded, polished i'm polishing). Bought all new hardware throughout to match.

- Cleaned up the headers (first put them in a rust remover, then wirewheeled the isht out of them). I bought black header wrap but I still wanted to clean them up prior). Turned out pretty good, I also got a good deal on emgo dunstall style shorty Mufflers.

- Everything the previous owner custom made looks amazing and I really want to commend him on his work. He created the:

1) custom rear cowl from an old harley fender (even went so far as to "french" in a custom taillight)
2) relocated the ignition to the lower frame (Above where the kick stand is)
3) designed the custom 2-into-1 rammed air-esque carb boots/air filter
4) added the unique speedo mount (attached to frame in front of tank)
5) chose the peanut tank / added the required mounts..

Only additions/changes I need to make to these include:

1) fixing the slight gap in the speedo casing created by cutting the original mount to allow for the guage to sit at 90 degrees instead of the stock 60? or so degree location.

2) Creating a side cover for the right side to match the one surrounding the ignition on the left

3) Reinforcing the rear loop (pics below in red)

4) I ruined his 2 into 1 air filter conversion's bondo job when stripping it so I need to rebondo that he did such a nice job I thought it was all metal lol, silly. But I did buy a K&N filter cleaner kit and cleaned up the air filter he had currently installed (cleaned up well)

What I plan on doing:

In hindsight I should've got the bike running first but I did pick up a second engine and I'm excited to try to figure all that out. I bought a new wiring harness too.

- Create / weld a rear hoop under the rear cowl; I think the way it setup could be fine, but I fear that with the battery going under there and whatnot, I would prefer something a bit more rigid. Also, I think that having something like this:



Would really add to the flow that it currently has going.

- Drill a pattern into the rotor (adds to the sportbike look)

- Change Gaskets, Brake Pads, Fork Seals, etc

- Strip Frame Further

- Add Rearsets

- Powdercoating (Tank, Frame, Handlebars, speedo casing, etc, etc)


So far My costs are as follows:

1976 Kawasaki Kz400 Bike (Purchased for $233)
Header wrap – Matte Black (Purchased for $23 Shipped)
Headlight Brackets – Chrome (Purchased for $18 Shipped)
Fork Boots – Matte Black (Purchased for $25 Shipped
Grips – Matte Black (Purchased for $25 Shipped)
Helmet – Gloss Black (Purchased for $75 Picked Up) + Chrome Visor (Purchased for $30 Shipped)
33mm Clip-on Handlebars – Matte Black (Purchased for $28 Shipped)
Wiring Harness (Purchased for $32 Shipped)
Wheels – Shinko 712’s (100/90/18 Front, 110/90/18 Back) (Purchased for $94 Shipped)
Extras: Engine, Tank, Turn Signals, Side Covers, Etc (Purchased for $100 picked up)
Motorcycle Jack ( $50 Picked Up)
Gasket Kit: $65 Shipped
New Spokes: $100 Shipped
New Chrome Headlight: $17 Shipped
Exhaust: $75 Shipped
CRG Bar End Mirrors: $65 Shipped
Turn Signals (4, Chrome, Harley): $60
License Plate: $25
New Bolt Kit: $25

Current Total: $1100


Still need:

Battery
Chain
Tire Tubes
Tires Trued/Mounted
Rearsets
Engine Re-bored + New Pistons, etc
Upholstered Seat
Paint
etc

You Made it this far! You Deserve Photos ;):

Frame (Current State of Bike)


Parts to Paint and/or Powdercoat


Some Polished / Finished Pieces









"After" Rim


"Before" Rim


Re-Spoked Rims:


"Before" Triple Tree Top Yoke


"After" Triple Tree Top Yoke


New to all of this, let me know what you think :) Any Advice / Guidance is always appreciated

Adam
 
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#28 ·
Adam,
I meant bigger with reference to fork tube diameter. The 33mm on the stock fork is a little small, for my taste, but for commuting they will be fine. So I would get some Progressive Suspension fork springs , change the fork seals and add fresh oil. I would rebuild the front brake caliper and deglaze the disk, add a stainless brakeline and flush the master cylinder. The front end is done. Replace the rear shocks and the rear end is done. Install the complete stock wiring harness and hook up everything that you have and get the engine running right and the carbs jetted. Then ride it around and see what it wants to be and what it needs next.

I wouldn't worry about the engine until you get it running, unless you have the means to do a leak down test. If you do, you can do that right now and get an idea of whether the engine has some needs now.

Ken
 
#29 ·
Adam,
I meant bigger with reference to fork tube diameter. The 33mm on the stock fork is a little small, for my taste, but for commuting they will be fine. So I would get some Progressive Suspension fork springs , change the fork seals and add fresh oil. I would rebuild the front brake caliper and deglaze the disk, add a stainless brakeline and flush the master cylinder. The front end is done. Replace the rear shocks and the rear end is done. Install the complete stock wiring harness and hook up everything that you have and get the engine running right and the carbs jetted. Then ride it around and see what it wants to be and what it needs next.

I wouldn't worry about the engine until you get it running, unless you have the means to do a leak down test. If you do, you can do that right now and get an idea of whether the engine has some needs now.

Ken
 
#31 ·
Really Appreciated, mind giving what I've researched a once over:


Progressive Suspension:
googled "kz400 progressive suspension fork springs"
found: Progressive Suspension Fork Springs - 111115, Dennis Kirk.com #58325
https://www.denniskirk.com/progressive-suspension/fork-springs.p58973.prd/58325.sku

Brake Deglaze Instructions:
http://www.socaltrailriders.org/forum/workshop/14392-correct-way-deglaze-brake-rotors-pads.html
** Mind letting me know which method you would recommend?

Master Cylinder Flush:
http://bolty.net/2012/02/23/how-to-flush-the-brake-fluid-in-your-sv650/
or
http://www.examiner.com/article/an-...cycle-maintenance-is-flushing-the-brake-fluid

Not sure what would be required of a front brake caliper rebuild, mind elaborating?

How do these look for VF750 shocks?
http://www.ebay.com/itm/350531225661?ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1423.l2649
or should I go with something more like this:

http://www.ebay.com/itm/200850942372?ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1423.l2649
 
#30 ·
Really Appreciated, mind giving what I've researched a once over:


Progressive Suspension:
googled "kz400 progressive suspension fork springs"
found: Progressive Suspension Fork Springs - 111115, Dennis Kirk.com #58325
https://www.denniskirk.com/progressive-suspension/fork-springs.p58973.prd/58325.sku

Brake Deglaze Instructions:
http://www.socaltrailriders.org/forum/workshop/14392-correct-way-deglaze-brake-rotors-pads.html
** Mind letting me know which method you would recommend?

Master Cylinder Flush:
http://bolty.net/2012/02/23/how-to-flush-the-brake-fluid-in-your-sv650/
or
http://www.examiner.com/article/an-...cycle-maintenance-is-flushing-the-brake-fluid

Not sure what would be required of a front brake caliper rebuild, mind elaborating?

How do these look for VF750 shocks?
http://www.ebay.com/itm/350531225661?ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1423.l2649
or should I go with something more like this:

http://www.ebay.com/itm/200850942372?ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1423.l2649
 
#33 ·
Just repeating what has been said with a a bit more:

-that tank does not fit the style or function -sell it - don't dish in any tank please.
-powder coat has become a synonym for quality work. Paint is often much better and more practical solution - search here.
-polishing is nice but stuff like caliper actually serve a real function and that is far more crucial than nice look. Take it apart, clean and replace/rebuild what is needed.
-stuff like rear sets, welding the frame etc. should be far ahead some styling choices in importance.
-Are you sure shinkos are any good? you are about to spend a fair amount of money and time - buy quality tires - they are teh easiest "bolt on" improvements on a bike.
-pod filters - don't do it. (search here) especially with vacuum carbs are apparently (near or fully) impossible to tune. Now you speak of some kind of home made airbox - that might solve it but if its is made (even partially) out of bondo it sounds like it was made for show not go and likely a bad idea.
-Engines don't usually have standard things that need replacement no matter what. SO don't start tearing potentially well working engine just for the hell of it. Rebuilding the engine is usually cash wise not worth it (replacement is quickly cheaper). And there is no point to tear into an engine just because. That is why everyone tells you to get it running 1st.
-same with ergonomics etc. Fix the obvious liek rebuilding forks etc. Put it together (with stock harness) and ride it.
-then you can change things - move rear set position, creta new wiring harness etc. but you should avoid a situation where you have huge number of unknown factors / untested changes (potentially difficult to change - powdercoat is bad for this). Imagine trying to start the engine that you have torn apart, built new wiring for, non stock air filter and pipe and then it doesn't start. Who you gonna call? It is MUCH more sensible to get it running and working in stock form as well as possible and THEN change things. At least then you know that the basics are there where as in the altered scenario its very hard to chase down issues when the problem could be anywhere and most systems are unique to your bike.
-drop the number plates. your photochop doesn't look like a race bike at all so number plates looks silly on it. They do look bit silly on most bikes but in this context they look equal to 4" exhaust tip on a 1.6 civic. You might think otherwise but remember the civic owner loves his exhaust tips too.
-when it comes to exhaust - read about wrap. Its it not loved. And please don't put open stupid loud pipes.

good luck.
 
#32 ·
Just repeating what has been said with a a bit more:

-that tank does not fit the style or function -sell it - don't dish in any tank please.
-powder coat has become a synonym for quality work. Paint is often much better and more practical solution - search here.
-polishing is nice but stuff like caliper actually serve a real function and that is far more crucial than nice look. Take it apart, clean and replace/rebuild what is needed.
-stuff like rear sets, welding the frame etc. should be far ahead some styling choices in importance.
-Are you sure shinkos are any good? you are about to spend a fair amount of money and time - buy quality tires - they are teh easiest "bolt on" improvements on a bike.
-pod filters - don't do it. (search here) especially with vacuum carbs are apparently (near or fully) impossible to tune. Now you speak of some kind of home made airbox - that might solve it but if its is made (even partially) out of bondo it sounds like it was made for show not go and likely a bad idea.
-Engines don't usually have standard things that need replacement no matter what. SO don't start tearing potentially well working engine just for the hell of it. Rebuilding the engine is usually cash wise not worth it (replacement is quickly cheaper). And there is no point to tear into an engine just because. That is why everyone tells you to get it running 1st.
-same with ergonomics etc. Fix the obvious liek rebuilding forks etc. Put it together (with stock harness) and ride it.
-then you can change things - move rear set position, creta new wiring harness etc. but you should avoid a situation where you have huge number of unknown factors / untested changes (potentially difficult to change - powdercoat is bad for this). Imagine trying to start the engine that you have torn apart, built new wiring for, non stock air filter and pipe and then it doesn't start. Who you gonna call? It is MUCH more sensible to get it running and working in stock form as well as possible and THEN change things. At least then you know that the basics are there where as in the altered scenario its very hard to chase down issues when the problem could be anywhere and most systems are unique to your bike.
-drop the number plates. your photochop doesn't look like a race bike at all so number plates looks silly on it. They do look bit silly on most bikes but in this context they look equal to 4" exhaust tip on a 1.6 civic. You might think otherwise but remember the civic owner loves his exhaust tips too.
-when it comes to exhaust - read about wrap. Its it not loved. And please don't put open stupid loud pipes.

good luck.
 
#36 ·
quote:Originally posted by kerosene

oh yeah - is your back wheel laced wrong - if some spokes look that much longer than others (might be just the photo) tha pattern is probably wrong. Will you tighten and true the rims yourself or have a shop do it?
they're both laced wrong, the inner and outer spokes on the same side always cross each other at the hub, each wheel there has them going away from each other
 
#37 ·
quote:Originally posted by kerosene

oh yeah - is your back wheel laced wrong - if some spokes look that much longer than others (might be just the photo) tha pattern is probably wrong. Will you tighten and true the rims yourself or have a shop do it?
they're both laced wrong, the inner and outer spokes on the same side always cross each other at the hub, each wheel there has them going away from each other
 
#39 ·
If the engine doesn't run, one way to get an indication of what's wrong with an engine would be to do a compression test. If the numbers are down then you may have to replace valves, rings, or rebore the cylinder and get new pistons. That's a lot of options. And to find out where the issue is will take some pretty precise measurements and some exact tools that you aren't likely going to buy for one bike (read that as "but I could buy a new set of tires for how much that tool I am only going to use once!). If you aren't confident about it find someone who is. Since it sounds like you have two engines, begin work on the one that has the best results. If the compression test is good (enough) and the engine dosent fire then start looking at the electrical side of things. Polishing comes later.

I am also thinking about a number plate or something like it for the hump of my bike. Never going to race it. But I'm thinking about putting a QR code instead of a number. The Code would send the person to the photobucket where the build history is. I've got a LONG way before that decision will be needed.
 
#38 ·
If the engine doesn't run, one way to get an indication of what's wrong with an engine would be to do a compression test. If the numbers are down then you may have to replace valves, rings, or rebore the cylinder and get new pistons. That's a lot of options. And to find out where the issue is will take some pretty precise measurements and some exact tools that you aren't likely going to buy for one bike (read that as "but I could buy a new set of tires for how much that tool I am only going to use once!). If you aren't confident about it find someone who is. Since it sounds like you have two engines, begin work on the one that has the best results. If the compression test is good (enough) and the engine dosent fire then start looking at the electrical side of things. Polishing comes later.

I am also thinking about a number plate or something like it for the hump of my bike. Never going to race it. But I'm thinking about putting a QR code instead of a number. The Code would send the person to the photobucket where the build history is. I've got a LONG way before that decision will be needed.
 
#40 ·
sure leak down or compression test will help but getting it running will be far more helpful. There can be other issues that get revealed - like tranny noise or bad shifting, clutch issues etc. which all will help in making better decisions when considering engine work or finding replacement.
 
#41 ·
sure leak down or compression test will help but getting it running will be far more helpful. There can be other issues that get revealed - like tranny noise or bad shifting, clutch issues etc. which all will help in making better decisions when considering engine work or finding replacement.
 
#44 ·
Yeah, I laced wheels incorrectly. Haven't been home since to try again. I don't plan on trying them myself either. Number plate was definitely an anesthetic decision (was going to do '76' for the year). Homemade two-into-one airbox is metal, just was originally bondo'd on the outside in areas.
 
#45 ·
Yeah, I laced wheels incorrectly. Haven't been home since to try again. I don't plan on trying them myself either. Number plate was definitely an anesthetic decision (was going to do '76' for the year). Homemade two-into-one airbox is metal, just was originally bondo'd on the outside in areas.
 
#47 ·
quote:Originally posted by roccitycafe

quote:Originally posted by kerosene

oh yeah - is your back wheel laced wrong - if some spokes look that much longer than others (might be just the photo) tha pattern is probably wrong. Will you tighten and true the rims yourself or have a shop do it?
they're both laced wrong, the inner and outer spokes on the same side always cross each other at the hub, each wheel there has them going away from each other
I'd agree they're laced wrong but I don't understand what you're saying here? The spokes on the same side of the hub can't go away from each other. If it goes away from the spoke to it's right, it'll cross the spoke to it's left. I'm missing something in your comment I think.

In any case, somebody didn't do their homework trying to re-lace them. Look at the before picture of the front wheel. Choose two adjacent spokes on the same side of the hub. Count the number of holes between them in the rim. Now do the same on the newly laced wheel. Old wheel, six holes over. New wheel, two holes over. I'm guessing that the angle of the holes in the rim don't match the spoke angles very well, that should have been a clue. Also, if you haven't polished all of the wear marks out of the hub from where the spokes ran orginally, you can use those as clues on how things should look.

The inner and outer spokes are different from each other, but it looks like you may have done ok there. Hard to tell from the pics.
 
#46 ·
quote:Originally posted by roccitycafe

quote:Originally posted by kerosene

oh yeah - is your back wheel laced wrong - if some spokes look that much longer than others (might be just the photo) tha pattern is probably wrong. Will you tighten and true the rims yourself or have a shop do it?
they're both laced wrong, the inner and outer spokes on the same side always cross each other at the hub, each wheel there has them going away from each other
I'd agree they're laced wrong but I don't understand what you're saying here? The spokes on the same side of the hub can't go away from each other. If it goes away from the spoke to it's right, it'll cross the spoke to it's left. I'm missing something in your comment I think.

In any case, somebody didn't do their homework trying to re-lace them. Look at the before picture of the front wheel. Choose two adjacent spokes on the same side of the hub. Count the number of holes between them in the rim. Now do the same on the newly laced wheel. Old wheel, six holes over. New wheel, two holes over. I'm guessing that the angle of the holes in the rim don't match the spoke angles very well, that should have been a clue. Also, if you haven't polished all of the wear marks out of the hub from where the spokes ran orginally, you can use those as clues on how things should look.

The inner and outer spokes are different from each other, but it looks like you may have done ok there. Hard to tell from the pics.
 
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