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Stattz is it running yet

This is a discussion on Stattz is it running yet within the General forums, part of the Caferacer.net Forums category; can you post a pic of your carb rack so we can see what is going on. the air bleed screw (fuel screw) should be ...

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  1. #11
    Senior Member Geeto67's Avatar
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    can you post a pic of your carb rack so we can see what is going on.

    the air bleed screw (fuel screw) should be on the side of each carb body near the opening. On older carbs it used to adjust the amount of air bleeding in the idle circuit (hence the name air bleed screw) but newer carbs (1969+) it actually adjusts the fuel flow at idle. There are some honda carbs where they didn't have individual fuel screws but a nob beterrn #2 and #3 carb at the bottom of the rack.


  2. #12
    LiLBull's Avatar
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    Stattz ...is this helping or are you holding your head from exploding?
    George


  3. #13
    Stattz's Avatar
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    I posted some pictures of the carbs here

    http://home.triad.rr.com/stattz/

    This is the first time I've posted pics, so I hope it works!

    The screws I messed with are under the top covers.
    I'm guessing that the screw between carbs 2 & 3 is the fuel screw, complete with factory yellow paint. The screw located on each the side of each carb must be the air screw, it's in about the same place as in the manual.

    How can I return the screws I messed up to stock settings, or should I try to do it a different way, such as balancing the carbs. Can I follow the steps Lil Bull outlined? Closing the (now located?) fuel and air screws, backing them out and away you go: or do they need to be balanced and synchronised?

    Stattz

    Edited by - stattz on Nov 23 2005 12:44:19 PM

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  5. #14
    FR
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    Stattz, do you have a repair manual for this bike? I know this might be a silly question, but I really think most of the answers to your questions are "in the book".
    I wouldn't proceed without one.


    FR


  6. #15
    Stattz's Avatar
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    I have a Clymer and a Haynes. I don't doubt the answers are "in the book", It's knowing where to look and having experience with similar systems that make it a bit easier to interpret what the manual is saying. Esp. since some of the photo's do not match what is mounted on my bike.

    Stattz

  7. #16
    Senior Member Geeto67's Avatar
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    IIRC there are 4 or 5 different carb types for the cb550 from 1974 to 1978. One is for the 1974, then 1975-1976 and then 2 or three different ones for 1977-1978. The 1974 and 1975-76 are similar with subtle differences, but are way different than the 77-78 different carb types.

    The manual covers only two different carb types the 1975-76 and one of the 1977-78 carbs. It is possible that they carb the books covers is different than what he has on the bike, however really all that changes between the different 77-78 models is the location of certain adjustment screws and linkages.

    This is why I recommended posting this at SOHC4.us since there will be guys there intimatley familar with these specific carbs.

    I know of the carbs you have stattz but the only time I had a bike with them I shitcanned them and replaced them with the 75-76 carbs which make more power and are way easier to work on.


  8. #17
    FR
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    Ok, well then nevermind...

    FR


  9. #18
    LiLBull's Avatar
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    Stattz I havent worked on that set up of carb but if you sent them to me Id be happy to look them over and set them up for you .Think about it or call me.
    My out line works with all carbs its best to have all at a base setting so by turning them all closed then open each the same amount three turns (THATs on complete 360 twist of screw driver will always get you in the ball park to start.

    The linkage,the idea is, you want every thing closed at same time back off or turn in all screws that rest against linkage.
    be sure everything is inline and all carbs are doing the same thing(all carbs are closed)then lock down linkage and check the movement . besure they all open same time and close same time.

    Again its a matter of getting my face in there and I can look and figure it out.

    those are very good pictures but they dont help as Id have to watch things move to see whats going on!
    So the best I can do is offer to set them up for you call me if you think that route .Ill look at them and adjust them and send them back .

    Dont let the terms balancing and synchronizing throw you its the same exact thing initially as make sure every thing is open and closed at the same time.backing in and out the screw evenly is the first form of "Balancing and synchonizing"

    And Stattz it truely sucks to work on carbs with those massive air boxes thank good for Cafinating I cut mine out carefully with a saws-all and thru it in the trash now carb work isnt a kick in the balls every time I want to check things out.....



    Edited by - LiLBull on Nov 23 2005 4:38:34 PM

    Edited by - LiLBull on Nov 23 2005 4:41:17 PM

  10. #19
    Senior Member Geeto67's Avatar
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    I posted it for you and here is the response so far:

    http://www.sohc4.us/forums/index.php?topic=5608.0

    quote: Yeah he has a mess there. As you said those carbs arent covered in the Clymers. Maybe he can get ahold of an actual Honda shop manual for the 78. The screws he messed with under the top cover are for syncing the carbs. He seems to be under the impression that there are two screws for air/fuel mixture. As you know there is one screw per carb and in his case they meter fuel. They are the screws under the carbs, in front and center of the float bowls(toward the engine) and they are mounted vertically. If he bottoms them out clockwise then turns them out 1.5 to 2 turns, that should be a good base point. He'll need to pull the carbs again and try to bench sync them(sorry I dont know the specs for the slides) then sync them while its running. He should be able to measure the clearance on the cut away side of the #2 carb and match the others to it. The #2 carb is the "preset" carb and is the one that you match the others to durring a sync. Match carb 1 to 2, then 4 to the others and finally 3. He'll probably end up having to increase the vacuum on 1 and 4 a bit once he does a running sync since their inlets are longer. I think the screws he mentions having the yellow torque paint on them are for adjusting choke but Im not certain. All said, he should probably find a set of carbs that havnt been pulled off the bank or messed with, and use those as a reference. Nothing wrong with having extra carbs and parts right?

  11. #20
    Stattz's Avatar
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    I read the replies onthe SOHC forum. Looks like its time to pull those carbs again. Thanksgiving first. Then we'll see.

    Thanks for all the help, it truly is appreciated.



    Stattz

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