Making molds
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Making molds

This is a discussion on Making molds within the General forums, part of the Caferacer.net Forums category; I bought a cool champion flat track seat/rear fender and I would like to make a mold to be able to make another one. Does ...

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Thread: Making molds

  1. #1
    Senior Member TSwami's Avatar
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    Making molds

    I bought a cool champion flat track seat/rear fender and I would like to make a mold to be able to make another one. Does anyone have any advice or some good links to doing this? I know I could probably send it to tanner and have it made but I would like to try it myself. I would like to send it to him and get a carbon fiber one though.

    If you are listening how much would it cost me to have that done?
    Faster, faster, faster, until the thrill of speed overcomes the fear of death. ~Hunter Thompson

  2. #2
    Senior Member Luckypabst's Avatar
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    There are plenty of tutorials online, but here are my mental notes:
    -The better the finish on your model and your mold, the better the finish on the final product.
    -Wax the hell out of your model - I think I was told 6 or 7 coats, and that many again on the fresh mold when you go to make copies. A seasoned mold can get by with fewer coats of wax. Buy proper mold-release wax.
    -Coat model with PVA before laying up the mold. Spray the mold with PVA before laying up the final parts.
    -Spray a coat of gelcoat as the fist layer of the mold. Gelcoat as the first layer of the parts as well. Allow gel to flash & become tacky before laying glass.
    -I think I layed up 6 layers of glass for the mold, alternating between woven cloth and glass matt, to a final thickness of a quarter inch or more. Allow flash & tack between each layer. Wetsand and buff any imperfections in the gelcoat before laying up the parts.
    -My finished seat is made of 2 layers of 7.5oz cloth with a layer of 1/8" foam in between at the seat surface and to provide rigidity to the tail. 2x7.5oz is nicely flexible yet strong.

    Chris

  3. #3
    Senior Member Luckypabst's Avatar
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    There are plenty of tutorials online, but here are my mental notes:
    -The better the finish on your model and your mold, the better the finish on the final product.
    -Wax the hell out of your model - I think I was told 6 or 7 coats, and that many again on the fresh mold when you go to make copies. A seasoned mold can get by with fewer coats of wax. Buy proper mold-release wax.
    -Coat model with PVA before laying up the mold. Spray the mold with PVA before laying up the final parts.
    -Spray a coat of gelcoat as the fist layer of the mold. Gelcoat as the first layer of the parts as well. Allow gel to flash & become tacky before laying glass.
    -I think I layed up 6 layers of glass for the mold, alternating between woven cloth and glass matt, to a final thickness of a quarter inch or more. Allow flash & tack between each layer. Wetsand and buff any imperfections in the gelcoat before laying up the parts.
    -My finished seat is made of 2 layers of 7.5oz cloth with a layer of 1/8" foam in between at the seat surface and to provide rigidity to the tail. 2x7.5oz is nicely flexible yet strong.

    Chris

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  5. #4
    bcr
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    Senior Member bcr's Avatar
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    Plus 1 on the info on the inter webs. "composite mould making" will get you close. Monkey has already forgotten more of this stuff than I'll ever know. None the less a couple things: if you use the original seat for a plug, polish and buff it to perfect, then mould release wax until you swear you're gonna freak, then wax it again. You pretty much can't over do this step. 6~8 passes should do it. At a minimum, the mould will want to be 5X thicker than the part you are making. I've had good luck with west system epoxy, on the down side, not supposed to spray epoxy, ever. I'm told. Good luck, bcr

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    bcr
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    Plus 1 on the info on the inter webs. "composite mould making" will get you close. Monkey has already forgotten more of this stuff than I'll ever know. None the less a couple things: if you use the original seat for a plug, polish and buff it to perfect, then mould release wax until you swear you're gonna freak, then wax it again. You pretty much can't over do this step. 6~8 passes should do it. At a minimum, the mould will want to be 5X thicker than the part you are making. I've had good luck with west system epoxy, on the down side, not supposed to spray epoxy, ever. I'm told. Good luck, bcr

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    Senior Member kerosene's Avatar
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    I would recommend epoxy over polyester though. Mostly the same procedure, but less stink, bit pricier.
    -

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    Senior Member kerosene's Avatar
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    I would recommend epoxy over polyester though. Mostly the same procedure, but less stink, bit pricier.
    -

  9. #8
    Senior Member TSwami's Avatar
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    This is what I want to make a mold of. Its not the most amazing thing but I have more than one idea for it. Thanks for the input I think it would be cool to have one made of carbon fiber.

    Faster, faster, faster, until the thrill of speed overcomes the fear of death. ~Hunter Thompson

  10. #9
    Senior Member TSwami's Avatar
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    This is what I want to make a mold of. Its not the most amazing thing but I have more than one idea for it. Thanks for the input I think it would be cool to have one made of carbon fiber.

    Faster, faster, faster, until the thrill of speed overcomes the fear of death. ~Hunter Thompson

  11. #10
    Senior Member lonewolf's Avatar
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    Unless you have a burning desire to do this work yourself you could check with monkey....www.tannermatic.com He does all sorts of work for people here and also does carbon fiber.

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