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This is a discussion on The "Whatcha Doin Today" Thread within the General forums, part of the Caferacer.net Forums category; Spent a few hours servicing this R100RS, I restored it for a friend nearly 10 years ago. He spent over £200 on a service at ...

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Thread: The "Whatcha Doin Today" Thread

  1. #1461
    Senior Member steveo's Avatar
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    Spent a few hours servicing this R100RS, I restored it for a friend nearly 10 years ago.
    He spent over £200 on a service at a local shop last week, by the looks of it all they did was change the oil, and spark plugs.
    Attached Images Attached Images    
    CaTacL1sm, s10hornet and jcw like this.
    "It's better to keep your mouth shut and appear stupid than to open it and remove all doubt"

  2. #1462
    Senior Member Cyorg's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Mark Burton View Post
    Nearly finished shaping these arches for my MGB. The green one I agreed to buy from shit bay a little while ago turned out to have been an insurance write off (bugger) so I cancelled the sale and found another. Really good solid condition this is, but getting it media blasted shortly for a bare metal re-paint. Sebring replica is what it should be.

    Attachment 69761
    Time for an update Mark?

    Also looking for some advise. I'm just starting to prep a tank for paint. It was nickel plated back when that sort of thing was fashionable and the local platers here aren't really interested is removing plating. Quite frankly there isn't one locally that I would trust with this tank anyway and I'd likely just get some mounting brackets back. It has slid down the road at some point long ago.. a hole was cut in into the bottom to facilitate removing the dent and most of the rash. The hole was patched with a piece of MS sheet using sheet metal screws and then the whole thing was soldered over. As disgusting as it sounds, it is a solid repair. Anyway the nickel plating has some (minor) signs of surface rust poking through, but the tank is still good and solid. The plan is to apply POR15 Metal Prep to the exterior, which is just phosphoric acid. Then scuff the daylights out of it and apply a second session with Metal Prep to make sure the rust is dealt with. Then a two part epoxy primer and a skim coat of filler to hide the remaining road rash. Its the primers adhesion to the nickel that I'm wondering about, but assume it will be ok if I scuff it up enough to get a decent mechanical bond. Am I on the right track? The 2 part primer that I have is probably past it's best before date, so will have to scout out some new stuff. I'd ask you for a recommendation for primer, but I guessing that compliments of the dorks in Brussels you can't still buy the nasty stuff that eventually makes your balls drop off.
    "Non urinat in ventum"

  3. #1463
    Senior Member raven's Avatar
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    buying VW parts. Got a pretty sweet pancake motor that someone had begun converting to an upright. Came with 32-pdsit carbs which aren't worn out (but I haven't dismantled to look inside yet either), a never run alternator conversion kit, and some other fun stuff. My rail may live again!

    As an aside....someone tossed the crossover/idle tube for the carbs. And I am sure they are gonna be a right pain to get to run right with individual air filters. No hope finding the "other" emulsion tubes that came on the dual carb beetles.
    Last edited by raven; 09-20-2017 at 09:01 AM.
    Tanshanomi likes this.
    Bike:
    Buell X1
    Honda S90 (box of parts)
    Honda CB750C (runs)
    The Others (mostly rolling wounded)

    My collar may be a little frayed, and maybe I need a shoeshine. But nobody\'s got a mortgage on my soul. I own it. Free and clear. -Phil Lovecraft

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  5. #1464
    Senior Member Mark Burton's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Cyorg View Post
    Time for an update Mark?

    Also looking for some advise. I'm just starting to prep a tank for paint. It was nickel plated back when that sort of thing was fashionable and the local platers here aren't really interested is removing plating. Quite frankly there isn't one locally that I would trust with this tank anyway and I'd likely just get some mounting brackets back. It has slid down the road at some point long ago.. a hole was cut in into the bottom to facilitate removing the dent and most of the rash. The hole was patched with a piece of MS sheet using sheet metal screws and then the whole thing was soldered over. As disgusting as it sounds, it is a solid repair. Anyway the nickel plating has some (minor) signs of surface rust poking through, but the tank is still good and solid. The plan is to apply POR15 Metal Prep to the exterior, which is just phosphoric acid. Then scuff the daylights out of it and apply a second session with Metal Prep to make sure the rust is dealt with. Then a two part epoxy primer and a skim coat of filler to hide the remaining road rash. Its the primers adhesion to the nickel that I'm wondering about, but assume it will be ok if I scuff it up enough to get a decent mechanical bond. Am I on the right track? The 2 part primer that I have is probably past it's best before date, so will have to scout out some new stuff. I'd ask you for a recommendation for primer, but I guessing that compliments of the dorks in Brussels you can't still buy the nasty stuff that eventually makes your balls drop off.

    Left hand side just about finished. Took me 4 days just to make that rear wheel arch, but its spot on against the side of those fibreglass replicas I bought. Just got one more to make now.

    Name:  IMG_1031.JPG
Views: 94
Size:  1.30 MB

    Pulled the engine out at the weekend and bolted the shell up onto this rotisserie that I made with the help of my son. Only cost £57 to make this and can rotate the bodyshell around 360 degrees with ease. Never used or made one before, but wouldn't be without it.

    Name:  IMG_1037.JPG
Views: 101
Size:  1.37 MB


    PM me a pic of that tank to show the plating. You'd be better skimming the road rash areas with filler after keying the surface with 80 grit paper on a DA sander - if you have one. Then acid etch prime it, followed by some 2k primer and then dust some Matt black on with a rattle can as a guide coat for blocking it back. If you look on my old bike post, you'll find a section where I painted my tank. If you've got to go out and buy some filler, there's some over here that is good for aluminium and galvanised steel. Adhesion is better, so get a tub of that if you need some. Don't worry if not, it's just the better option.

    You can still get the nasty stuff here for Classic Car Restoration - that was the way around beurocracy, just not sure if it would be available on your shelves.
    CaTacL1sm and jcw like this.

  6. #1465
    Senior Member Cyorg's Avatar
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    Looks great. When you're done, you can do a celebratory pig roast on that rotisserie!
    I have the DA sander. Had to translate that.. I call them random orbital, so DA didn't register at first. Also have a giant roll of 80 grit. Did a quick test and it works well. I wasn't sure about using the filler first or primer first. Part of the problem will be roughing up the little valleys in the rash and I thought the epoxy primer would stick better to any shiny low spots. I'll go at them with a wire brush after sanding. I've tried several different acids including sulphuric on this nickel and it doesn't seem bothered by any of them. I'll have to find another source for acid etch primer. I used some on the fenders and it didn't stand up well. Then I ran into a compatibility problem with the filler primer so I ended up tossing them in the corner and installing some alloy fenders (sorry guards). Will have another go at them as I'm doing the tank.
    I looked for the 2 part epoxy that is chemical resistant and it seems to be a little harder that I thought it would be to find locally.

    PS Tried taking some photos with the iPhone and it doesn't focus very well on the nickel. I'll try to line up a real camera.

    Just tried the wire brush (attached to an angle grinder) on the low spots and it was pointless. A Dremel with the appropriate stone is doing the job... slowly.
    Last edited by Cyorg; 09-20-2017 at 05:20 PM.
    "Non urinat in ventum"

  7. #1466
    Senior Member XB33BSA's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Mark Burton View Post
    Left hand side just about finished. Took me 4 days just to make that rear wheel arch, but its spot on against the side of those fibreglass replicas I bought. Just got one more to make now.

    Name:  IMG_1031.JPG
Views: 94
Size:  1.30 MB

    Pulled the engine out at the weekend and bolted the shell up onto this rotisserie that I made with the help of my son. Only cost £57 to make this and can rotate the bodyshell around 360 degrees with ease. Never used or made one before, but wouldn't be without it.

    Name:  IMG_1037.JPG
Views: 101
Size:  1.37 MB


    PM me a pic of that tank to show the plating. You'd be better skimming the road rash areas with filler after keying the surface with 80 grit paper on a DA sander - if you have one. Then acid etch prime it, followed by some 2k primer and then dust some Matt black on with a rattle can as a guide coat for blocking it back. If you look on my old bike post, you'll find a section where I painted my tank. If you've got to go out and buy some filler, there's some over here that is good for aluminium and galvanised steel. Adhesion is better, so get a tub of that if you need some. Don't worry if not, it's just the better option.

    You can still get the nasty stuff here for Classic Car Restoration - that was the way around beurocracy, just not sure if it would be available on your shelves.
    beautifal work on that fiat !! i think some fatter tars would look better but that's just me
    are fiats pretty popular in the youkay?

  8. #1467
    Senior Member Mark Burton's Avatar
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    beautifal work on that fiat !! i think some fatter tars would look better but that's just me
    are fiats pretty popular in the youkay?
    .......Fiat?

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    unclerob likes this.

  9. #1468
    jcw
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    Senior Member jcw's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Mark Burton View Post
    Left hand side just about finished. Took me 4 days just to make that rear wheel arch, but its spot on against the side of those fibreglass replicas I bought. Just got one more to make now.
    Stunning work so far. You are truly gifted.

  10. #1469
    Senior Member Cyorg's Avatar
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    Fiat?? Sacrilegio!

    Wish they made filler that doesn't stink. The bride is not amused.

    First layer... long way to go.

    Name:  Tank6.jpg
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    Mark Burton likes this.
    "Non urinat in ventum"

  11. #1470
    Senior Member Mark Burton's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Cyorg View Post
    Fiat?? Sacrilegio!

    Wish they made filler that doesn't stink. The bride is not amused.

    First layer... long way to go.

    Name:  Tank6.jpg
Views: 153
Size:  87.9 KB
    If dusts getting everywhere, get the hose from your vacuum cleaner near to where you are rubbing down and it will save a load of mess.

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