HELP ! Replacement tank for a 1980 Suzuki GS 550E
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HELP ! Replacement tank for a 1980 Suzuki GS 550E

This is a discussion on HELP ! Replacement tank for a 1980 Suzuki GS 550E within the General forums, part of the Caferacer.net Forums category; Hi all! Maybe someone can help me out there. I have been working on converting a1980 Suzuki GS550E to a cafe racer for the last ...

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  1. #1
    Junior Member Pittsburghracer's Avatar
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    Question HELP ! Replacement tank for a 1980 Suzuki GS 550E

    Hi all!
    Maybe someone can help me out there. I have been working on converting a1980 Suzuki GS550E to a cafe racer for the last five years. It's been an on and off project.
    I have everything done but I'm having problems with the gas tank. It has some rust in it. I tried that Kreme coating with no luck. Had to strip it out of the tank. Cleaned the tank with acid, then baking soda then coated the inside with oil. Still no good. Keep getting rust in it!!
    I am getting sick and tired of working with this gas tank.
    I've looked at other GS gas tanks on eBay but they all seem to have rust in them also.
    I'm thinking about replacing the tank with a new tank but have no idea what tank would work. I know that a new tank must have a deep tunnel channel but that's about it.
    I'd greatly appreciate any help/advice you can give.
    Thanls

  2. #2
    Senior Member woodsman's Avatar
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    This guy (the Winnipeg, Regina ads), in Canada, may have something that will work and he'll ship to the US. US price is 80% of asking ie.$195Cdn=$156US

    https://www.kijiji.ca/b-motorcycle-p...-tank/k0c309l0

  3. #3
    Senior Member Geeto67's Avatar
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    Ever tried. Ever failed. No matter. Try Again. Fail again. Fail better.
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    A tool is just an opportunity with a handle
    - Kevin Kelly

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  5. #4
    Senior Member hillsy's Avatar
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    Kreem is universally considered shit. Try POR15.

    If you don't follow the process to the letter with gas tank sealing, it won't work.

    Or just buy a good in line filter and call it good.

  6. #5
    Junior Member Pittsburghracer's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Geeto67 View Post
    I give the electrolytic method a shot. Hell I've tried everything else. Thank

  7. #6
    jcw
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    Senior Member jcw's Avatar
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    Your post doesn't make complete sense.

    After you clean with acid, the tank should be clean of rust. The baking soda and oil don't remove any more rust.
    If the acid truly did it's job, which it doesn't sound like it did, then if you fill with gas, rust should not form. And if it does, it's just a light surface flash anyway.


    Electrolysis will probably work but is rather involved.


    Pics of the tank????


    I would remove as much loose flaky rust with a bunch of nuts on a string or screws or whatever. The thick flaky stuff won't be removed by acid wash or electrolysis.
    Shake till your arms are about to fall off. Rinse and repeat. Do that for an afternoon or two.

    Then heat up a gallon or more of water, plug up the tank and pour the water into the tank. Add some oxalic acid or wood bleach. you can get it at the hardware store. Swish gently. Prop on different sides to cover the tank. Leave in the sun for a 1/2 hour on each side, then front and back, drain carefully. rinse thoroughly. Repeat if necessary.

    The metal will flash rust but this is usually harmless. If you fill with gas right away you usually won't rust at all.

    The key is the hot hot water. And BTW don't add the boiling water to acid unless you want an acid volcano with a face full of acid.

  8. #7
    Senior Member knappyfeet's Avatar
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    On my HT-1.......... the tank looked really bad. After I did some inspection camera viewing I really had my doubts but things came through for me.

    It sounds like your not really controlling the "flash rusting" like jcw indicated. I cleaned with an acid one last time then did some forced air drying.....not necessarily warm air but forced air. It dries much better than just heat alone. Then I immediately poured the sealer in and since the tank was so small I did it again.

    Here's where it kinda starts on my 90 thread. My tank looked bad but it has held up with Hirsch even with premix.


    https://www.caferacer.net/forum/gener...tml#post399705

  9. #8
    Junior Member Pittsburghracer's Avatar
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    A local motorcycle shop owner told me to use this metal cleaner/acid made by PPG that you can pick up at any auto plant supply store. I used have of the bottle with twice the amount of water. Added about a cup of BBs and shook I until my arms hurt. Then emptied it on then added a cup of baking soda and filled the tank with water. Shook that around then water through the tank. Dry the tank using an old hair drier. Then coated the tank with a few ounces of light oil.
    I did exactly what I said above and the tank came old clean as a whistle! Filled the tank with gas and added some Sea Foam in it. The tank sat in my heated garage all winter.
    I figured the tank would be fine. But when the petcock wasn't working I decided to drain the tank. The gas of the first part of drained tank looks ok until I got to the end of the tank which turn out to be a bright red with an unbelievable amount of rust. So I figured I better check the petcock which seemed okay until I tore it apart. When I took off the diaphragm and there has all kinds of some type of dirt that had it totally clogged!
    So I've tried the acid wash again and we'll see what happens. If it doesn't work again I'm trying the electrolysis method.

  10. #9
    Senior Member XB33BSA's Avatar
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    just be sure and fully netrutralize the acid
    the key is getting the water out of the metal
    a hair dryer wont do it
    do the final couple rinses with close to boiling water heat it on stove
    after draining the hot water out an airhose with just the male coupler plugged in will blow a tremendouis stream of air
    after the boiling water rinse tank will be hot as fuck blowing air steams off water
    roll some atf around inside coat it and heat the tank up to finish druing it out a bbq works great
    250 f degrees is good for final drying
    the atf wont stop any moisture left from steaming out

  11. #10
    Senior Member Geeto67's Avatar
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    Also, don't forget the top of the tank rusts too. Might explain why the last of the gas was red, it was the stuff on top.
    Ever tried. Ever failed. No matter. Try Again. Fail again. Fail better.
    - Samuel Beckett
    A tool is just an opportunity with a handle
    - Kevin Kelly

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