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Tall man, shaped like giraffe, looking for advice.

This is a discussion on Tall man, shaped like giraffe, looking for advice. within the General forums, part of the Caferacer.net Forums category; i am not trying to answer for gto but if you raise the rear you have to raise the front as well to maintain the ...

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Thread: Tall man, shaped like giraffe, looking for advice.

  1. #21
    Senior Member XB33BSA's Avatar
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    i am not trying to answer for gto but if you raise the rear you have to raise the front as well to maintain the overall balance of handling and weight distribution
    bmw carefully has those pretty much ideal as stock
    the bmw stanchion tubes are not adjustable like most bikes that leave some extra length
    because the bmw top bridge/yoke is just a plate captured by the stanchion tube cap/top bolt
    the r80 tank lends itself to blend in with a 4'' higher sreating from the images and without looking funky
    thats where you need to go in my opinion
    ideally you will want the bars forward a couple inches annd the pegs back 3-4''
    and if a cafe style seat make sure it leaves room for you to be seated back a bit further than a rider 10'' shorter than you

  2. #22
    Senior Member Geeto67's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by imtheant View Post
    You are correct Geeto, I have been on such sites at BikeExif and others but simply to rule in AND rule out what I like and what I do not. I have finally decided on a 1986 R80, which I will be picking up next week. The current owner changed the handlebars, removed the fairings and, IMO, it is on its way to where I want to be without starting from scratch with a full fairing bike. The picture you posted just above this paragraph is exactly along the lines of the build I am looking to do, but with a taller seat and a few other mods. Do you have any suggestions on a brand or make of rear mono shock that would achieve the desired ride height of bringing up the back end?
    If you are going for the 1986 R80, then my recomendation is to go get the Down and Out Subframe, seat, and rear fender setup:

    Down & Out Motorcycles | D&O BMW Mono Shock Custom Subframe & Seat Base

    yeah it is pricey but it's bolt on. If you look at how they do their subframes they actually raise the subframe rails up higher than stock, which is preferable to raising the rear of the bike up in the suspension, because it opens up the angles in your knees and hips as well. Yeah their seat is a little thin, but down the road you can take it to an upholsterer and have them remake the cover and add padding, which would bring it up further.

    If your monoshock works, leave it alone. It's pretty decent for what it is, and when you see replacement costs for one it's enough to say forget it. Also you don't want to monkey too much with raising it up because you'll stress the U-joint. Height adjustments you'll want to do with the subframe and the seat.

    here is a bike with the D&O subframe you can see how much taller it is:
    Name:  featured.jpg
Views: 107
Size:  73.5 KB

    esp when you compare it with a stock subframe one like this:
    Name:  8925024.jpg
Views: 104
Size:  43.4 KB

    Also, if there is a local shop near you, you could have them fab up something. The only thing the subframe has to do on a monolever is support the weight of the rider (older twinshocks also mount the shocks) and a competent shop that can weld and bend tube could make something to your custom specs.
    Last edited by Geeto67; 03-11-2019 at 11:38 AM.
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  3. #23
    Senior Member XB33BSA's Avatar
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    the d&o subframe is taller but what a bunch of garbage in design
    srsly you could not make a rear fender look and be more ill-fitting if you tried
    and the seat is just following a brain dead retarded clown sheeple posse of moronic trends that simply makes me think of the olkd fable
    the emperor has no clothes

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  5. #24
    Senior Member Geeto67's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by XB33BSA View Post
    the d&o subframe is taller but what a bunch of garbage in design
    srsly you could not make a rear fender look and be more ill-fitting if you tried
    and the seat is just following a brain dead retarded clown sheeple posse of moronic trends that simply makes me think of the olkd fable
    the emperor has no clothes
    Yeah it's not "super great" but it's sturdy enough and for people looking for a bolt on solution it's easy. The rear fender thing does piss me off a little but it still works as a fender so..... As a tall person haveing a flat seat to slide back on makes a world of difference - I took my R80 out for a spin yesterday to run errands and I was practically sitting on the hump between the rider and passenger cutout.
    Ever tried. Ever failed. No matter. Try Again. Fail again. Fail better.
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  6. #25
    Junior Member imtheant's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Geeto67 View Post
    If you are going for the 1986 R80, then my recomendation is to go get the Down and Out Subframe, seat, and rear fender setup:

    Down & Out Motorcycles | D&O BMW Mono Shock Custom Subframe & Seat Base

    yeah it is pricey but it's bolt on. If you look at how they do their subframes they actually raise the subframe rails up higher than stock, which is preferable to raising the rear of the bike up in the suspension, because it opens up the angles in your knees and hips as well. Yeah their seat is a little thin, but down the road you can take it to an upholsterer and have them remake the cover and add padding, which would bring it up further.

    If your monoshock works, leave it alone. It's pretty decent for what it is, and when you see replacement costs for one it's enough to say forget it. Also you don't want to monkey too much with raising it up because you'll stress the U-joint. Height adjustments you'll want to do with the subframe and the seat.

    here is a bike with the D&O subframe you can see how much taller it is:
    Name:  featured.jpg
Views: 107
Size:  73.5 KB

    esp when you compare it with a stock subframe one like this:
    Name:  8925024.jpg
Views: 104
Size:  43.4 KB

    Also, if there is a local shop near you, you could have them fab up something. The only thing the subframe has to do on a monolever is support the weight of the rider (older twinshocks also mount the shocks) and a competent shop that can weld and bend tube could make something to your custom specs.


    Very helpful. I will be picking up the bike this week and although I am not sure what brand of bolt on subframe they purchased, it doesn't look too far off from the ride height of the one from D and O customs that you referenced. Here is a pic, do you agree? This seat looks razor thin so that's going to be the first thing to replace.



    Last edited by imtheant; 03-11-2019 at 10:41 PM.

  7. #26
    Senior Member woodsman's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by imtheant View Post
    Very helpful. I will be picking up the bike this week and although I am not sure what brand of bolt on subframe they purchased, it doesn't look too far off from the ride height of the one from D and O customs that you referenced. Here is a pic, do you agree? This seat looks razor thin so that's going to be the first thing to replace.



    I hope it was cheap.

  8. #27
    Senior Member TrialsRider's Avatar
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    You bought a BMW bobber.

    Quote Originally Posted by imtheant View Post
    ... not sure what brand of bolt on subframe they purchased ...
    From here it looks like the stock frame half chopped off kind.

  9. #28
    Senior Member Geeto67's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by imtheant View Post
    Very helpful. I will be picking up the bike this week and although I am not sure what brand of bolt on subframe they purchased, it doesn't look too far off from the ride height of the one from D and O customs that you referenced. Here is a pic, do you agree?
    Nope, that one sits much lower, plus you can see the ends of it. dude that one looks sketchy as hell because it lacks the uprights that run from the peg brackets to the middle of the subframe to support rider weight. I wouldn't ride that. It looks homemade or like someone bought a generic seat hoop off ebay and welded on some mounting tabs. Seriously, that literally scares the shit out of me as I don't think those stock forward subframe brackets were meant to take a 200lb+ shearing load. Maybe ze germans built in enough of a safety margin but I wouldn't bet my life on it by riding it.

    Also no rear fender and no provision for a rear fender mount. Pitch that garbage in the trash. I thought we discussed this.

    Quote Originally Posted by imtheant View Post
    This seat looks razor thin so that's going to be the first thing to replace.
    yeah he probably bought the hoop as seat pan as a set and then stretched some boat vinyl over it. I'm telling you - throw the whole back end away and start over.

    So the good news is that you wanted a project and you sure bought one. I think you have some good bones there, but there are a lot of red flags. Let's address some of them.

    - No stock gauges. So here is a fun fact, the generator light on the instrument panel is essential for the bike to charge. Don't ask me why, I didn't design it - but those kooks in bmw engineering routed the circuit through that light so when it isn't there or blow out the bike doesn't charge (fun fact the generator light should be on at idle and go out as revs climb). The bike also won't charge if another light of different amp draw is put in it's place, like the one say as part of the aftermarket gauge. I am not saying this was done correctly or incorrectly since I haven't seen the bike, but it is my 100% recomendation that you put a multimeter on the battery while the bike is running to see if it is charging at all. you should see a draw at idle (under 13.8) and 15.8V at redline. I would also inspect how that gauge is wired in because if it is home depot crimp connectors and electrical tape - you have your work cut out for you.

    - no signals. So my bike didn't come with signals either and it has been a fun adventure wiring them in because of how the bmw is wired in general. Actually, this is the one part of the bike that is most like a car, and it's a simple circuit, it even uses a flasher solenoid for an 80's saab and 2000's toyotas. I got lucky and my PO had tucked the wires away instead of clipping or cutting them. Still, it has been an adventure converting to LEDs, esp with how well insulated and shielded everything is from the factory. you can't just throw an LED compatible flasher in the system and call it a day, and it all ties into the idiot light panel on the stock gauges as well - so that will be fun if it's been monkeyed with.

    - The wiring in general: that trascan worthy headlight and the way way way too small taillight give me pause to think that the entire electrical system on this bike has been monkey'ed with. there is a reason why snowbum on his site has an entire tolken like saga about the correct bulbs and the ones that could be used as a replacement when the 100% correct ones are not available. Care has to be taken when building a custom and I'm seeing way way way too many cheap ebay parts to think that it happened. Not that I am against ebay parts mind you, but in moderation, for certain things.

    - Exhaust: the good news is that the PO left everything from the stock headpipes to the cat and only removed the rust prone and heavy stock mufflers. The bad news is that I am not seeing how those new silencers are attached to the frame, and the stock system without the silencers is too heavy to be held up by the headpipes. I would inspect that system for cracking (probably hasn't happened yet) and then find a way to attach those cheapie twee mufflers to the peg mount they seem to be jammed up against. If they are attached, then carry on.

    - Fork gaiters: WTF?!?!. Aside from being useless, they look like they are hiding rust. Also your fork slider dust covers are missing.

    - Front Brake lines: Those aftermarket ones look sketch as hell. I wouldn't trust that they don't rub the tire at some point. The stock setup uses a hardline crossover (which bmw still makes) that runs inside the stock fender. It does a good job and keep thinks clear of spinning bits and bobs. The good news is that the front fender looks like a stock one that has been cut down and you could probably convert back to the stock setup.

    The airbox and 90% of the exhaust doesn't look touched so that is probably a good sign that the engine hasn't been messed with by whomever committed this war crime of customization on that bike, so if it was maintained it probably runs well. Don't trash the airbox and run those twee pod filters unless you are planning to replace those CV carbs with flatsides. your intake is not restricted, it is well designed by BMW engineers, and everybody who monkeys with it for a look without putting in a big bore kit, better carbs, etc...typically loses power and also ride-ability in the midrange. You have a nice aftermarket sidestand (fun fact, R series monolevers didn't come with side stands, and I like yours better than the one I have), your rear drive doesn't seem to be leaking anywhere, and you have the dual disc setup. the stock bar controls are still there, the hard to find stock tank is still there (yes that tank is very difficult to find even though it is the same shape as the 1977-1984 tank - the tunnel is different to clear the electrics on the - 85-95 bikes).

    So what would I do if I were you (ie. some fun projects that I feel just make the bike better)?

    - Start with the front end and service the whole thing. Check the dates on the tires, they look new but you can never be too careful. Since those wheels look powdercoated, hopefully new wheel bearings were installed and properly greased. Take the forks apart, clean out the sliders, and put in new fluid and seals. It's cheap insurance and a fun project. Plus you can remove the reflectors and polish or paint the lower fork legs while you are there.

    - check the steering head bearings to make sure they are in good shape. if not replace.

    - give the bike a full fluid and filter service. Pay very careful attention to the $2000 o-ring in the oil filter cover (called that because if you install it properly you oil seize your engine). Check the valve lash settings.

    - check the front brakes for dragging, rebuild the calipers if you must. Figure out that line setup. I run the stock hard line crossover with a single braided line up to the master - much cleaner.

    - As someone who spent an entire summer filling his bmw tank through the petcock hole, replace that key'ed fuel cap. they are a common failure item and when they break they lock you out and have to be drilled to be opened. I replaced my broken one with this:
    https://www.ebay.com/itm/Petrol-Cap-...72.m2749.l2649

    - Figure out that rear. I've given you some suggestions on a good subframe, but there are other makers like Von Zeti, ritmeo sereno, Flatracer, wimoto. All of these are legit companies that make a product that works and have customers that attest to their quality. Flatracer makes a way better rear fender setup than D&O but they don't make a subframe for the monolever (they do make a lot of parts that work with the stock subframe). I just don't trust that setup you have now man.
    Last edited by Geeto67; 03-12-2019 at 11:46 AM.
    CaTacL1sm likes this.
    Ever tried. Ever failed. No matter. Try Again. Fail again. Fail better.
    - Samuel Beckett
    A tool is just an opportunity with a handle
    - Kevin Kelly

  10. #29
    Senior Member TrialsRider's Avatar
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    What battery? I don't see one :|

  11. #30
    Senior Member Geeto67's Avatar
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    Just to show you I am dealing with a lot of the same issues as you, here is a pic of my 1986 R80:

    Name:  image.jpeg
Views: 66
Size:  323.5 KB
    Ever tried. Ever failed. No matter. Try Again. Fail again. Fail better.
    - Samuel Beckett
    A tool is just an opportunity with a handle
    - Kevin Kelly

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