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Flat saddle options

This is a discussion on Flat saddle options within the General forums, part of the Caferacer.net Forums category; Hey all, I picked up a CB 360 yesterday and I want to start making some changes to better suit my taste and likes. I’ve ...

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Thread: Flat saddle options

  1. #1
    Member alwaysavocado's Avatar
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    Flat saddle options

    Hey all, I picked up a CB 360 yesterday and I want to start making some changes to better suit my taste and likes. I’ve been looking at some flat saddle options, but most of them don’t look like the battery will clear under the seat. Does it look like I might need to relocate the battery or just keep searching for the right style seat that's flat ?
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  2. #2
    Senior Member woodsman's Avatar
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    Put a rear fender on , move the battery forward and flip the the steel plate over.

  3. #3
    Member alwaysavocado's Avatar
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    Thanks, that makes sense . I was thinking to lower the plate that everything sits on about an inch at the bottom of this section of frame. But flipping it makes way more sense . Is the metal piece over the battery a stock piece for the stock seat? Or did someone add it ?

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    Senior Member woodsman's Avatar
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    That's a stock bracket but in your other thread it looks like it might have been moved. What are the brown thing and the box below the carbs?
    Last edited by woodsman; 04-20-2019 at 06:57 AM.

  6. #5
    Member alwaysavocado's Avatar
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    Cool, I ordered a seat I’ll see how close it is when it arrives . The one it came with is just really uncomfortable and not mounted very well. The brown stuff , it’s a little leather tool pouch and a small steal box for tools .

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    Member alwaysavocado's Avatar
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    I’ve relocated most of the electrical to sit on a new welded plate that’s level with the lower part of the frame tube . Previous owner had this exposed , 2 questions.... does this need air flow? And what part is it? Looks like a stator plate?
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    Senior Member woodsman's Avatar
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    It's the rectifier, usually under a side cover. Wherever you locate it you do want to allow a way for heat to escape.

    You should figure out how to put fenders on it otherwise you'll be eating grit and flinging shit at your carbs. Get caught in the rain and the rear tire will be pumping gallons of water per minute at the carb intakes and anything else inline with the deluge.

    That taillight is a really poor idea. If we are on a four lane road, your in the centre lane and I'm in the curb, I cannot see your brake light. If I decide to change lanes just as you go to the brakes, the odds are vastly improved that I am going to rear end you. I don't know any bikers that have been rear ended that didn't have a good dose of back or neck pain, a couple guys I know still have problems associated with being hit decades after it happened.

    The signal lights look pretty much useless. It appears from the photo that the shocks would interfere with a clear view for anyone behind you. Personally I want anyone around me to clearly be able to see me and what my intentions are when I'm on a bike. I don't want subtle, stylish or cool, I want in your face bright and clear, "I'm here don't fuckin hit me" lighting. I hate riding at night but if I have too the bike I use has 2 led bar lights as well as the headlight. One points at each ditch line so I can see any deer that might dart out in front of me. Hitting a deer is a real night time danger in our area so we adapt our lighting to try and increase safety margins.

    Lighting is not a fashion statement.
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    Senior Member TrialsRider's Avatar
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    Yep, rectifier, regulator may or may not be incorporated within it. This is the gizmo that converts alternating current (A.C.) output from your alternator which is generally right on the end of your crankshaft, the stator (stationary part of the alternator) as part of the alternator is located inside the motor, trace those 3 white wires back and you will arrive at the alternator. The 3 white wires each provide A.C. voltage, the red and black is your positive and negative D.C. voltage output. The rectifier/regulator operates on diodes (component that only allows current to travel through it in only one direction) diodes are prone to failure if over-heating occurs, hence that great big heat sink to dissipate the heat precipitated during the A.C. to D.C. conversion and regulation process. Imperative you mount that heat sink somewhere it can gets lots of ventilation/cooling or you will promote premature failure. It is also generally rubber mounted to help isolate it from vibration IF it is mounted directly on the motor.


    Rectifier is often mounted directly under the seat and gets hot, which is how it earned the nick name 'rectum fryer'


    Last edited by TrialsRider; 04-22-2019 at 02:32 PM.

  10. #9
    Member alwaysavocado's Avatar
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    Thanks for all the tips guys, once I get it running (mostly carb related) I’ll address the turn signals before any real riding. I agree the shocks are blocking them , even without the shocks they are so micro .

    As far as the seat I’ve mounted the “stator” under the seat where the previous owner originally had it . Started making a small mount for the battery and order a frame loop. Everything should clean nice after welding a seat bracket in place on top of the frame tubes.

    This cheapie seat isn’t too bad , it’s comfortable enough and looks ok, the size is alright . I just wished it arched forward at an angle to tuck in towards the tank more , the gap might bother me quite a bit if I decide to run this saddle for a while .

    Not sure what brand filters these are , I have another set that came with the bike, they look like K&N but I don’t see any stamping which they normally do.

    A couple update photos...
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    Senior Member crazypj's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by woodsman View Post
    we adapt our lighting to try and increase safety margins.

    Lighting is not a fashion statement.
    Yep, playing 'fast and loose' one Sunday ride I almost ran into a V-Max with blacked out tail light as I couldn't tell when brake light came on. Definitely not a cool mod


    Quote Originally Posted by alwaysavocado View Post
    Thanks, that makes sense . I was thinking to lower the plate that everything sits on about an inch at the bottom of this section of frame. But flipping it makes way more sense . Is the metal piece over the battery a stock piece for the stock seat? Or did someone add it ?
    Real bad idea. The plate is an add on, the raised section is stock. Battery is normally behind carbs. I think you need to check if tyre has been rubbing on underside of plate (pretty common with the mod, kinda 'interesting' when tyre hits it) Rear shocks may be for a 750? Springs way too hard for suspension to move properly. Remove both shocks and put a bar 12" long with holes 10" apart on shock mounts. You need about 1/2" clearance. You also need to put something back between frame rails, they can move independently without any bracing. I thought I was done with this years ago
    Last edited by crazypj; 04-23-2019 at 10:51 PM.
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