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I did a thing... a CB900F thing

This is a discussion on I did a thing... a CB900F thing within the General forums, part of the Caferacer.net Forums category; Originally Posted by Geeto67 Honest Answer: An Aircooled engine is harder on the oil than a water cooled one. With oil, heat is the primary ...

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Thread: I did a thing... a CB900F thing

  1. #11
    jcw
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    Quote Originally Posted by Geeto67 View Post
    Honest Answer: An Aircooled engine is harder on the oil than a water cooled one. With oil, heat is the primary concern. In a water cooled v-8 for the most part you won't see an oil temp beyond 230 degrees at most unless your cooling system has failed. On an aircooled bike it's not uncommon to see 250-260 degrees temp. Even with an oil cooler my Ducati isn't considered warmed up until it's 230 degrees. At 275 oil starts to break down, and I've seen that on my duc and my cb750 in traffic.
    I run oil temp/press gauges on my xs850 engine for this very reason. Oil pressure and temp is a good way you can monitor the adequacy of your engine oil real time.
    My oil temps run 220-240 at the track. Granted, it's not as bad as top speed runs, but I am WOT for probably 1/2 to 2/3 the lap on a low hp machine. I have spoken with redline oil representatives and they feel this is the sweet spot for any one of their oils and most synthetics. I dont think oil temp is a problem for a well running air cooled engine that is stock or even mildly modified.

    My question is a real one, though, and i dont know the answer. Its not just temp but film strength of the oil. Particularly on a flat tappet pushrod engines.

  2. #12
    Ews
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    Quote Originally Posted by woodsman View Post
    Looks like it's well kept, congratulations on the new wheels. I think you should have beat him up for the Corbin, rearsets will change your posture and it may have worked then. What the hell, we can always spend your money on one after you get through Getto's parts list, LOL.
    I may end up getting a corbin after I get around to buying the wife a bike.

    I have never owned a bike with such a fat rear tire. Te really does feel different. Handles nice and smooth. I see why people like crotch rockets.
    Dream as if you live forever, Live as if you die today.~ James Dean

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  3. #13
    Ews
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    Quote Originally Posted by woodsman View Post
    Looks like it's well kept, congratulations on the new wheels. I think you should have beat him up for the Corbin, rearsets will change your posture and it may have worked then. What the hell, we can always spend your money on one after you get through Getto's parts list, LOL.
    Quote Originally Posted by jcw View Post

    My question is a real one, though, and i dont know the answer. Its not just temp but film strength of the oil. Particularly on a flat tappet pushrod engines.
    In my 5.0 i ran Royal Purple XPR, which is supposed to be their Extreme performance oil. I did this because I drove that thing to its ragged edge on a daily basis. I noticed that the car ran smoother, and about 10 degrees cooler than when I was running Motorcraft oil. IMO synthetics are better because they tend to coat the parts better and can last longer, I still change every 3k though. I notice that RP runs out with more viscosity when I drain it for change than standard oil does. It also looks far less burned and tastes better too!
    Dream as if you live forever, Live as if you die today.~ James Dean

    I feel the need, the need for speed.~ Mavrick (Tom Cruise before he was a big ol' bag of crazy)

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  5. #14
    Ews
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    Jesus H.W. Christ!! Is this a normal price?!?!?

    https://www.ebay.com/itm/Fully-resto...0AAOSw32lcmlM-
    Dream as if you live forever, Live as if you die today.~ James Dean

    I feel the need, the need for speed.~ Mavrick (Tom Cruise before he was a big ol' bag of crazy)

  6. #15
    Senior Member Geeto67's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Ews View Post
    Jesus H.W. Christ!! Is this a normal price?!?!?

    https://www.ebay.com/itm/Fully-resto...0AAOSw32lcmlM-

    No, that's the high end of the spectrum for a part that's fit for a show bike, not a rider. I bought my non lattice 750F sport kit for $150 last year shipped from England, and I've seen the lattice ones around $200-250.

    If you don't want the sport kit, and just want the lattice foot plates from an american CB1100F I see those just come up for $50-100 sometimes.
    Ews likes this.
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  7. #16
    Ews
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    Quote Originally Posted by Geeto67 View Post
    No, that's the high end of the spectrum for a part that's fit for a show bike, not a rider. I bought my non lattice 750F sport kit for $150 last year shipped from England, and I've seen the lattice ones around $200-250.

    If you don't want the sport kit, and just want the lattice foot plates from an american CB1100F I see those just come up for $50-100 sometimes.
    Ok, I was about to cry
    Dream as if you live forever, Live as if you die today.~ James Dean

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  8. #17
    Ews
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    Been riding the CB every day now and I have noticed something that I am not sure if I should be concerned about. Generally I let the trans/downshifting and compression do a lot of my slowing when I come to a stop, but if I don't use the downshifting to slow me and just brake to a stop (from any speed) once I am stopped and clutch pulled I get a little bit of what feels like clutch slippage, just for a second. And then Neutral seems hard to grab. I have never had this occur on a bike before so I am wondering if I just need to adjust the clutch? The previous owner said that he had the clutch replaced last year and has only rode the bike a few times since then, is this just something normal that happens until the clutch is "broken in"?

    I noticed that taking off from a stop was a little rough and did some research.Found that the idle should be set to approx 1100rpm. It was idling around 800rpm, after turning up the idle everything is wonderful there. They wife thinks I should order new decals and paint the bike a sparkly pearlescent white, which would look stunning I am sure. But I was planning to keep this thing as original as I could, now I don,t know what to do lol.
    Dream as if you live forever, Live as if you die today.~ James Dean

    I feel the need, the need for speed.~ Mavrick (Tom Cruise before he was a big ol' bag of crazy)

  9. #18
    Senior Member steveo's Avatar
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    If you're having trouble selecting neutral it sounds more like clutch drag to me.
    Check the cable freeplay first, should be 10-20mm.
    "It's better to keep your mouth shut and appear stupid than to open it and remove all doubt"

  10. #19
    Senior Member Geeto67's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Ews View Post
    They wife thinks I should order new decals and paint the bike a sparkly pearlescent white, which would look stunning I am sure. But I was planning to keep this thing as original as I could, now I don,t know what to do lol.
    There are several variants of the 900F that were white from the factory in England and Europe. Many of them have better stripe and decal layouts than the US setup which personally triggers my ocd in the worst way - the tank decals don't connect with anything so the look unfinished. The white with the red and gray stripes that flow from tank to tail look much better than anything we got as a factory paint scheme here in the states and I think you can get them from places like CB Decals. Plus, your bike is not stock now anyway, and there are plenty of people who saved those silver and blue paint jobs because of the association with Freddie Spencer.


    My advice? If you are going to paint it, wait till end of season - it's a lot of down time to be without a bike while it is being painted, and also the paint needs time to cure before you can wax it an spilling fuel on it then can make it weaken and lift. If you paint it end of season you have all winter to let it cure and then start riding it next season with a fresh coat of wax on it. You can also buy another tank, tail, and sidecovers and have those painted if you really want to keep your stock set.

    Also so fun thing to look for: euro models came with a locking glovebox in the tail. If you want to repaint, might as well look for one of those since they are cool.
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  11. #20
    Senior Member woodsman's Avatar
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    If you are going to have it painted as opposed to doing it yourself, I've found I can get a lot better price from a good painter if I let them do it as a time filler over the winter. If they can do the work when they are in the waiting phase of a job, paint drying etc., then usually the price will go down. Give it to them in October and tell them you need it for March/April vs in 3 weeks.

    I always liked this colour scheme, I think it's European, I've never seen one like it in person.
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