There are plenty of "cheapish" alternatives to Chinese shocks. Progressives, Hagons, etc....
The general consensus has been with these Chinese shocks that every one needs a rebuild before use because of quality inconsistencies (like different fluid level between the shocks and too light a fluid for the orifices in the damping mechanism).
Honestly by the time you are done properly setting up a cheap RFY shock you have spent as much or more than it would cost you to get a properly set up hagon ($194). By properly setup I mean springs, fluid, nitrogen, schrader valves, new seals if needed. I think PJ said it best when he said they are a really cheap way to get a good starting point for a $400 shock. Although to be fair he made a new lower mount for his on a lathe because he was unhappy with the stock pieces.
To answer Emit's question I would probably buy the cheap chinese shocks also, but I would not run them out of the box on the bike, I would at the very least do the fluid and schrader valves on them before anything else and that raises the cost. If I was restricted to having to run them out of the box - I would pick the OEM style remakes because depending on the bike the quality control is likely better.
Good point, I now recall that as well. And from what I remember from PJ's thread, only way to change the oil was to drill n tap the bodies...
it wasn't the ONLY, but it made reassembly and refill easier since there was no intake for the gas on the shocks. Basically it turns them into an actually tuneable shock instead of one that just had a set amount of nitrogen in there.
I saw a web teardown of the "new" RFY shocks with the coppery-orange trim and reservoir, and the passage between the reservoir and the shock body wasn't even drilled. Clearly QC is lacking so I'm not even a little surprised that the oil levels would be different.WTF is this shit?RFY Shocks ? Model 2 Analysis
I was looking for chris's link but couldn't find it earlier.
I think the point is that when it comes to Chinese shocks it pays to be a do it yourself-er, and really informed about them - and then only then do they become a great deal. However most people who buy them just bolt them right on their bikes without regard to whether they are actually working like shocks or not and that is a little worrisome.
"Your exhaust flanges are leaking, if you didn't realize that already."
Actually, the paint burned off in that area. Any suggestions on a coating that can withstand both heat & solvents?
Ceramic coating would probably do the trick.
Did you do anything to the engine such as a new crank, porting or other machine work? I'm going to be building an R5, or some variation of one, over the next few years and am always looking for more info on various builds, parts and trustworthy machine shops.