[QUOTE=caferocket686;292037]Did you do anything to the engine such as a new crank, porting or other machine work? I'm going to be building an R5, or some variation of one, over the next few years and am always looking for more info on various builds, parts and trustworthy machine shops.
The motor is stock, but with rebuilt crank, bored cylinders & new pistons/rods and all new seals & bearings. It's nice & lively. The drum brakes are so-so, but are actually a good motivator for me not to be too much of an idiot on the road, as they require pre-planning! The bike is light & handles well.
Two Stroke World is a great information source. Economy Cycle & HVC Cycle have about any part you will ever need.
Jim - did you paint the pipes yourself? If so, what paint did you use?
I've heard of people using BBQ paint on 2 stroke chambers with OK results - they tend to run a bit cooler than a 4 stroke pipe.
Or flame proof paint (1200 deg F) would work - although I don't think you can get a gloss finish in those, just matt.
If you are finding the drum brake just so-so, I think you probably don't have it set up as well as you could. With a bike of that weight, a DLS brake of that side should be able to lock up the front wheel on the street without fading. On the track you should be able to get a couple of laps or more, depending on the track.
There are instructions for setting up a brake right on the web. But just in general, If you have new or deglazed shoes and a clean deglazed drum then you should be able to get it right, Adjust the rod between the levers so the shoes both engage the drum at the same time. Then apply the brake to center the backing plate while you tighten the axle and pinch bolts.
I will add to Ken's comments that I found the drum front brake on my XT500 to actually be pretty good.
It kinda surprised me that it actually worked well, to be honest.