Although I have my eye on a 4LS front brake...
Although I have my eye on a 4LS front brake...
i can hear you going down 17K from here and the sound is good. and youll never be done
"i can hear you going down 17K from here and the sound is good"
No kidding? Where are you? I'll stop by!
Nice stable of "must have" bikes by the way! (82 Suzuki gs550m katana, 75 S3 400 kawasaki, 75 H1 500 kawasaki, 76 suzuki gt 500 , 70 kawasaki a7 350 avenger...).
The R5 is currently the only bike I own.
Classy looking machine...nicely done!
No...never really finished; always something else you want to do, unless you sell it. :)
Cheap Chinese RFY shocks? Really? Is the bike for static display only?
Your exhaust flanges are leaking, if you didn't realize that already. Aside from that and the previously mentioned shock issue, it presents well.
I'm curious - not meaning to hijack but here it is - between the cheap Ohlins knock-offs and the cheap OEM shocks, which would you choose? Jimbo184 has already cast his vote. Note: there is no Door #3 option on this one ("you just save until you can afford good shocks"), if you're truly bucks-down, which way would you go?
Very pretty bike!
I've never ridden on those RFY's, but there have been a few here that have rebuilt them. I've always wondered, without full disassembly and rebuild, if you just take them to a tire place and balance out the nitrogen, do they atleast feel better than OEM or NOS pogo sticks?
There are plenty of "cheapish" alternatives to Chinese shocks. Progressives, Hagons, etc....
The general consensus has been with these Chinese shocks that every one needs a rebuild before use because of quality inconsistencies (like different fluid level between the shocks and too light a fluid for the orifices in the damping mechanism).
Honestly by the time you are done properly setting up a cheap RFY shock you have spent as much or more than it would cost you to get a properly set up hagon ($194). By properly setup I mean springs, fluid, nitrogen, schrader valves, new seals if needed. I think PJ said it best when he said they are a really cheap way to get a good starting point for a $400 shock. Although to be fair he made a new lower mount for his on a lathe because he was unhappy with the stock pieces.
To answer Emit's question I would probably buy the cheap chinese shocks also, but I would not run them out of the box on the bike, I would at the very least do the fluid and schrader valves on them before anything else and that raises the cost. If I was restricted to having to run them out of the box - I would pick the OEM style remakes because depending on the bike the quality control is likely better.
Good point, I now recall that as well. And from what I remember from PJ's thread, only way to change the oil was to drill n tap the bodies...
it wasn't the ONLY, but it made reassembly and refill easier since there was no intake for the gas on the shocks. Basically it turns them into an actually tuneable shock instead of one that just had a set amount of nitrogen in there.
I saw a web teardown of the "new" RFY shocks with the coppery-orange trim and reservoir, and the passage between the reservoir and the shock body wasn't even drilled. Clearly QC is lacking so I'm not even a little surprised that the oil levels would be different.WTF is this shit?RFY Shocks ? Model 2 Analysis
I was looking for chris's link but couldn't find it earlier.
I think the point is that when it comes to Chinese shocks it pays to be a do it yourself-er, and really informed about them - and then only then do they become a great deal. However most people who buy them just bolt them right on their bikes without regard to whether they are actually working like shocks or not and that is a little worrisome.
"Your exhaust flanges are leaking, if you didn't realize that already."
Actually, the paint burned off in that area. Any suggestions on a coating that can withstand both heat & solvents?
Ceramic coating would probably do the trick.
Did you do anything to the engine such as a new crank, porting or other machine work? I'm going to be building an R5, or some variation of one, over the next few years and am always looking for more info on various builds, parts and trustworthy machine shops.
[QUOTE=caferocket686;292037]Did you do anything to the engine such as a new crank, porting or other machine work? I'm going to be building an R5, or some variation of one, over the next few years and am always looking for more info on various builds, parts and trustworthy machine shops.
The motor is stock, but with rebuilt crank, bored cylinders & new pistons/rods and all new seals & bearings. It's nice & lively. The drum brakes are so-so, but are actually a good motivator for me not to be too much of an idiot on the road, as they require pre-planning! The bike is light & handles well.
Two Stroke World is a great information source. Economy Cycle & HVC Cycle have about any part you will ever need.
Jim - did you paint the pipes yourself? If so, what paint did you use?
I've heard of people using BBQ paint on 2 stroke chambers with OK results - they tend to run a bit cooler than a 4 stroke pipe.
Or flame proof paint (1200 deg F) would work - although I don't think you can get a gloss finish in those, just matt.
If you are finding the drum brake just so-so, I think you probably don't have it set up as well as you could. With a bike of that weight, a DLS brake of that side should be able to lock up the front wheel on the street without fading. On the track you should be able to get a couple of laps or more, depending on the track.
There are instructions for setting up a brake right on the web. But just in general, If you have new or deglazed shoes and a clean deglazed drum then you should be able to get it right, Adjust the rod between the levers so the shoes both engage the drum at the same time. Then apply the brake to center the backing plate while you tighten the axle and pinch bolts.
I will add to Ken's comments that I found the drum front brake on my XT500 to actually be pretty good.
It kinda surprised me that it actually worked well, to be honest.