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Budget Parts-Bin Bultaco

This is a discussion on Budget Parts-Bin Bultaco within the Project Builds forums, part of the Caferacer.net Forums category; Originally Posted by Cyorg Is your bride wondering where her cutting board went? Nope. I bought big sheet of 3/16" HDPE about four years ago, ...

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Thread: Budget Parts-Bin Bultaco

  1. #271
    Senior Member Tanshanomi's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Cyorg View Post
    Is your bride wondering where her cutting board went?
    Nope. I bought big sheet of 3/16" HDPE about four years ago, plus some thick square blocks of the stuff, to use for just this sort of mock-up work. It's cheap, quick and easy to drill and cut, but rigid without cracking or folding easily.
    "With idiotic intentions come idiotic victories" – Salvage Bultaco franken-bike build log

  2. #272
    Senior Member Tanshanomi's Avatar
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    Budget Parts-Bin Bultaco

    So, I have my rear motor mount templates. I have 3/16" mild steel and 1/4" alloy stock; which of these should I make them from? Each arm extends 94mm from swing arm pivot center to bolt center.

    Last edited by Tanshanomi; 02-04-2017 at 01:00 PM.
    "With idiotic intentions come idiotic victories" – Salvage Bultaco franken-bike build log

  3. #273
    Senior Member Cyorg's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Tanshanomi View Post
    So, I have my rear motor mount templates. I have 3/16" mild steel and 1/4" alloy stock; which of these should I make them from? Each arm extends 94mm from swing arm pivot center to bolt center.

    I would use the 1/4 alloy. It's a bit of a span, but you are adding cross tubes (assuming that's still the plan), so should be good. My Triton plates are made from 1/4 "aluminium".
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  5. #274
    Senior Member Tanshanomi's Avatar
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    I put two pieces of stock together with split pins and commenced to cutting and filing. I'd gotten this far when I decided my bracket design is a bit thin. In 1/4" alloy, I'm afraid these would be a bit too willowy for all the mass I'll be asking them to support. I'm going to revise my design to make it a bit chunkier and start over.

    "With idiotic intentions come idiotic victories" – Salvage Bultaco franken-bike build log

  6. #275
    Senior Member knappyfeet's Avatar
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    Yea.......I also thought it would be good with the cross tubes.

    3/8?........

  7. #276
    Senior Member Tanshanomi's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by knappyfeet View Post
    Yea.......I also thought it would be good with the cross tubes.

    3/8?........
    I'm going to stick with the 1/4" thickness, but make the pattern a bit more substantial:



    This gives a bit of scale, compared to the rubber engine mount:

    "With idiotic intentions come idiotic victories" – Salvage Bultaco franken-bike build log

  8. #277
    Senior Member Mark Burton's Avatar
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    I made my alloy engine plates out of 3/8 inch plate and the original Triton plates where same as Cyorg says at 1/4". I sprayed some some quick drying silver paint - some galv weld through coating I had laying around, onto the plate to scribe out as it didn't tear up like paper or tape stuck on. Made it easier to file up afterwards.

    Stick at it
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  9. #278
    Senior Member Tanshanomi's Avatar
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    Shortly after I posted this, a friend of mine (my podcast co-host Garrett) offered to laser* cut my engine plates out of 3/16" steel. Since I don't have to fabricate them myself, I took the opportunity to make them a bit less plain. The only downside is the turnaround time is 2-3 weeks. I guess the interim gives me a chance to sort the wiring on the other project bike, which I've been putting off.

    *He said "laser cut," but I am guessing they'll actually be plasma or waterjet cut.

    Last edited by Tanshanomi; 02-23-2017 at 01:28 PM.
    "With idiotic intentions come idiotic victories" – Salvage Bultaco franken-bike build log

  10. #279
    Senior Member Tanshanomi's Avatar
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    So, the laser cut (yes, really laser cut) rear engine mounting plates Garrett had made arrived yesterday. They're absolutely perfect. Here they are mocked up with some allthread. The bottom mounting stud will mount through the frame on both sides to take some of the load off the my skinny little swingarm pivot bolt. I will also have to play with spacers on each side of the pivot compensate for the thickness of the two plates.



    Obviously, I still have plenty of fabrication work to do here. I bought plenty of 1.25" x 0.120" wall DOM tubing and confirmed that the Suzuki GT rubber mounts are a properly snug push-fit. They will have small mounting tabs welded onto them, as shown in my original napkin sketch. The engine is slightly offset from the frame centerline. Rather than attempting to work out the exact engine offset ahead of time and then attempting to weld the tabs on in the exact correct location, I will place them further outboard from the engine mounting bosses and use alloy spacers to locate the engine into place between them. As long as the tabs are anywhere inboard of the chain run, I'm good.

    I also cranked up my lathe to make the fittings to connect the pieces of my new rear frame section to each other and the existing frame. I've finished one of the four.



    Two will have the same diameter on both sides, the other will be like this one, with a larger diameter on one side to fit the thinner wall tubing of the existing frame.

    Each one will fit between the two lengths of tube (ignore the crooked hacksaw cut, it's temporary)...



    And get welded around the circumference.

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    "With idiotic intentions come idiotic victories" – Salvage Bultaco franken-bike build log

  11. #280
    Senior Member Tanshanomi's Avatar
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    I mentioned this in passing early on, but one thing I am planning on doing is building a crossover shifter arrangement for a modern standard right-brake/left-shift arrangement. (I'm old enough that my neural net and premotor cortex don't adapt as easily.) I could find a late ('75-on) Bultaco lower end with the shift shaft exiting on both sides of the cases but, the "left side" shaft actually exits the cases directly inboard of the drive chain:

    Name:  Bultaco-shifter.jpg
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    As you can see, any sort of rearsets would still require some sort of goofy linkage around the chain run anyway. Besides, I already have earlier, right-shift-only cases and transmission parts. And finally, if I set it up with a crossover shaft, then I can put any Bultaco motor I want in it later, on the off chance the chassis ends up being something more than pure garbage when finished.

    Sooo... I'm currently thinking about how to incorporate a crossover shaft into that lower mounting location for the engine plates. The rubber mounts might complicate that, since they dictate the maximum diameter. For refernce, when I was at the British National Motorcycle Museum about five years ago, I took some photos of how a couple of later British bikes did the crossover thing:





    "With idiotic intentions come idiotic victories" – Salvage Bultaco franken-bike build log

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