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Budget Parts-Bin Bultaco

This is a discussion on Budget Parts-Bin Bultaco within the Project Builds forums, part of the Caferacer.net Forums category; I probably wouldn't want to locally heat it too much due to distortion. Are you sure that's a 100% iron cylinder? The corrosion has an ...

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Thread: Budget Parts-Bin Bultaco

  1. #21
    Senior Member raven's Avatar
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    I probably wouldn't want to locally heat it too much due to distortion. Are you sure that's a 100% iron cylinder? The corrosion has an aluminum look to it. I know nothing about Bultacos.
    Bike:
    Buell X1
    Honda S90 (box of parts)
    Honda CB750C (runs)
    The Others (mostly rolling wounded)

    My collar may be a little frayed, and maybe I need a shoeshine. But nobody\'s got a mortgage on my soul. I own it. Free and clear. -Phil Lovecraft

  2. #22
    Senior Member santa_ana's Avatar
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    Barrel itself should be iron. The rest alloy. I wouldn't touch the fin, it's mega crappy cast.

    Chris

  3. #23
    Senior Member Geeto67's Avatar
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    bent fins add character.
    Ever tried. Ever failed. No matter. Try Again. Fail again. Fail better.
    - Samuel Beckett
    A tool is just an opportunity with a handle
    - Kevin Kelly

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  5. #24
    Senior Member Tanshanomi's Avatar
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    quote:Originally posted by Geeto67

    bent fins add character.
    Good advice. I have so many other things to worry about on this, I'm not going to mess with it. If I ever get to the point where this is complete, running, and doesn't look like total crap for a thousand unrelated reasons (all big ifs), maybe I'll worry about it then.

  6. #25
    Senior Member Emit R Detsaw's Avatar
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    http://aircooledrdclub.org.uk/forum/...185&KW=barrels

    You need to check out this guy's restoration of a cylinder that most of us would cast off as junk, including straightening of the fins. The OP's tag line is "OCD engineer"...indeed. If he can make that cylinder look and perform properly, you should be able to fix one fin. Just sayin'.
    I believe we have run out of trolls.

  7. #26
    Senior Member Tanshanomi's Avatar
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    quote:Originally posted by raven
    Are you sure that's a 100% iron cylinder? The corrosion has an aluminum look to it. I know nothing about Bultacos.
    quote:Originally posted by santa_ana
    Barrel itself should be iron. The rest alloy. I wouldn't touch the fin, it's mega crappy cast.
    Yes, you are both correct. It is alloy with an iron sleeve.

  8. #27
    Senior Member Tanshanomi's Avatar
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    Even though I've seemingly made no actual progress on this build, it's not dead, just simmering on a way-back burner most of the time. I HAVE managed to make the first rough cut of the swingarm plates out of 3/8" flat stock. Ooohwee — now that's some kinda' progress! ...Now I just keep moving them from one side of the workbench to the other.


    I also stripped the paint off the swingarm. For some reason, somebody did a crappy job of painting the YZ125C swingarm white, and much of the surface was rusty and corroded where both the repaint and the OE black were worn off. Before doing any work on it, I wanted to strip it. Since I was doing this in my basement garage, which is directly under our kitchen and bedroom, I bought some odor-free "Citristrip."


    Since most products that promise greater safety and fewer harmful fumes also tend to be generally less effective, I wondered if a product designed for stripping wood furniture would be able to tackle OE frame paint. It went on easily enough and was thick enough to cling well. Here's a hint: use a natural bristle brush, not one of those cheap foam brushes — not only could it not work into crevasses well, but as I was working with it, the stripper dissolved it into goo!


    The instructions said to let the stripper work for "up to 24 hours," but I was really just testing whether it was going to work at all, so I only gave it about 40 minutes of soak time. Then, I pulled on the rubber gloves and scrubbed it haphazardly with a green scrubber sheet for all of about 90 seconds, then hosed it off in the driveway. Amazingly, despite a pretty slap-dash application and not much "cooking," nearly all of both coats came right off.


    It needs another application, especially underneath the bottom where I hadn't bothered to coat it, but I was very impressed with the job Citristrip did.

    Thinking through how to make this swingarm work is still what is slowing this build down. (Well, that and the fact that I am spending no appreciable time or money on it!) There's really no point in doing anything else until I have nailed down precisely how I want to mate the swingarm with the frame and engine. As many different designs as I've uploaded to this thread, there have been just as many variations since that I've investigated and abandoned. Unfortunately, I also discovered that the Bultaco Matador rear engine mount I bought off Ebay won't work with my Pursang frame —*even though the engine cases are the same, the position of the swingarm pivot relative to the engine is just slightly different. Grrrr. Perhaps I have more mounting plates to make.

    What I'm realizing is that that this swingarm is really not an optimal choice for this build, even though it was the starting point for the whole idea. The pivot diameter is too narrow, the shock mount is too wide, and the whole thing looks pretty cobbled. I know many shadetree amateur weldors who wouldn't be satisfied with boogered-up welds like these.

    Last edited by Tanshanomi; 12-26-2012 at 10:59 AM.

  9. #28
    Junior Member jfman's Avatar
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    Lots of potential here.

    Seems the parts for these are hard to find but I spotted a whole bike local to me and I figure I'd let you know about it.

    http://qc.kijiji.ca/c-ViewAdLargeImage?AdId=406024259


    Keep up de good work!

  10. #29
    Senior Member Tanshanomi's Avatar
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    I discovered that the Matador rear engine mounting bracket that I bought on Ebay isn't going to work, so I had to design new rear engine mount brackets. I first drilled holes in two pieces of 3/16" thick high-density polyethylene sheet*—*one sheet with two 1/2" (close enough to 12 mm to work) holes on 100 mm centers, and another with a 7/8" hole.


    The hole saw says 15/16" because this was just a test on scrap sheet.

    I attached one piece to the motor and installed the frame tube through the other one. I made sure the front motor mount bolts weren't binding, then clamped the two pieces together.


    I removed them still clamped together and drilled two small holes for machine screws, locking down the relationship between the motor mount holes and the frame tube.





    Which then allowed me to generate an accurate design. I am going to try to replicate this out of HDPE as a final check before I send the design file off to be made out of 1/4" mild steel on a waterjet cutter.


    I'm still undecided about the speed holes.
    Last edited by Tanshanomi; 12-26-2012 at 11:00 AM.

  11. #30
    Senior Member Tanshanomi's Avatar
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    A friend just read this thread and told me that I was making this too detailed and tedious to read.
    Perhaps, but I want to document everything it really takes for an average joe without special tools or experience to build a bike from parts, including all the head scratching and blind alleys, and stuff that gets scrapped.

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