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tt500 into a road bike

This is a discussion on tt500 into a road bike within the Project Builds forums, part of the Caferacer.net Forums category; You would be correct. I did learn something new though, offset woodruff keys are a thing....

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  1. #41
    Senior Member CAPTAIN AWESOME's Avatar
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    You would be correct. I did learn something new though, offset woodruff keys are a thing.
    drgonzo likes this.

  2. #42
    Senior Member CAPTAIN AWESOME's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by TrialsRider View Post
    I bet the replacement key you have on order is not offset.

    & It definitely spun and flopped around on the tapered shaft at some point in its life.


    btw: was the key inserted in the direction of advancing the timing? or retarding the ignition as it would more likely be after being sheared?
    I believe it went full retard? Advancing timing would be counterclockwise and retarded would be clockwise if I'm understanding correctly. Hash marks on flywheel start with advanced to the left, then F for fire in betwix, and T for TDC on the right.

  3. #43
    Member expat2000's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by CAPTAIN AWESOME View Post
    I believe it went full retard? Advancing timing would be counterclockwise and retarded would be clockwise if I'm understanding correctly. Hash marks on flywheel start with advanced to the left, then F for fire in betwix, and T for TDC on the right.
    Sorry couldn't resist:
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  5. #44
    Senior Member o1marc's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by CAPTAIN AWESOME View Post
    You would be correct. I did learn something new though, offset woodruff keys are a thing.
    When I was racing cars we were not allowed adjustable cam gears, so what we did was test with adjustable cam gears to get the timing spot on and then use offset keys to get the specified advance. That or once we knew what we wanted you spin the cam gear to where you want without the key and then tack weld it on.
    drgonzo likes this.
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  6. #45
    Senior Member CAPTAIN AWESOME's Avatar
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    Parts came in today. Won't be able to install until Sunday, but hoping this is the last big fix for a while.


  7. #46
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    And the problem is solved. For the most part at least. With the new(er) flywheel and source/lighting coils sputtering went away for the most part. It was still running rich, so I popped the needle clip from the 3rd position to the top and it cleared right up. I was able to rev throughout the range without any breaking up. It's still popping on decel but I'm going to keep tweaking carb settings and check for more exhaust leaks. Main jet is back to the 230 I started with, so I'm going to probably order a 220 and a 210 to see what happens.

    I also started wiring up the lighting. Unfortunately both voltage regulators I have won't work, so I'm waiting on the proper one to get in.

  8. #47
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    Never got around to ordering main jets, but I did manage to wire up the voltage regulator and a Sigma bicycle speedometer. After verifying calibration with GPS I am road ready.

    Yesterday I wanted to see if I could click off some test miles on various terrain and see how it would act. Temps have been warmer, and it was immediately obvious I'm still too rich. Top speed indicated was 72 and it ran out of steam sputtering. Back road gravel and some rough terrain were of no concern though. Lobbing along with the 15/42 gearing was perfect keeping torque where I need it. Once jetting gets tuned in better I may consider getting an "on road" sprocket and chain set.

    Another thing I will need to address is my tank bag covers the vent on the gas cap. Standard tubing will just kink and collapse with the bag on top, so I may get another cap to experiment with. I'm thinking I can cut the straight nub off and epoxy a 90* plastic or brass elbow on.


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