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'78 Gl1000 Buffet Racer

This is a discussion on '78 Gl1000 Buffet Racer within the Project Builds forums, part of the Caferacer.net Forums category; Originally Posted by Stephen J New guy shows up with a good attitude and a fun build and no one turning the screws on him. ...

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  1. #11
    Senior Member o1marc's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Stephen J View Post
    New guy shows up with a good attitude and a fun build and no one turning the screws on him. Well ain't that a welcomed change, like a parade without the rain. Welcome to the nut house propav. Will be nice to see the bike as it evolves. Think I saw a pic of Knappyfeets GW and if you want to know how to install the microwave and fridge he's got ya covered. Jus kiddin all solid advice. Cheers
    It's a good thing he posted the progress pics at the same time as the intro or it might have gone in a different direction.
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  2. #12
    Senior Member 8ball's Avatar
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    I actually like the old GL's. People tend to forget that they were marketed as a Super (sized) Sport bike. Big and powerful.

    That being said: For the love of all that is good and holy, do NOT put those shocks on that bike. This isn't coming from a stance of hating on them for poor performance or inferior damping and spring rates. I'm the guy who always tells folks that they can be made to work fairly well, and I even made a thread on how to rebuild them to resolve the performance and quality issues. No. This is purely from a standpoint of concern for your safety. That bike is at least 300 lbs heavier than anything those shocks are designed to be installed on. Specially the ones with the clevis style lower mount. The ones with an eye mount on both ends are a bit stronger. But the clevis type have a major stress riser at the upper corners of the mounting slot. The threaded part where the clevis screws into the lower shock body is also very thin. They are OK for a bike that weighs in around 400 lbs., but your bike is WAAAAAY over that. Those shocks will break. Go get some Hagons, or even some Progressive Suspensions. Please!

    Other than that I will be watching with interest. You seem to be very proficient mechanically. I have a feeling that what you will end up with will be interesting and different. Just remember (since this is your first bike, so presumably are not familiar with bike dynamics), cars and bikes handle differently and their dynamics don't correlate. For instance, lowering a car makes it turn better. It makes a bike harder to turn. (just an example)
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  3. #13
    Senior Member propav8r's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by 8ball View Post
    I actually like the old GL's. People tend to forget that they were marketed as a Super (sized) Sport bike. Big and powerful.

    That being said: For the love of all that is good and holy, do NOT put those shocks on that bike....Specially the ones with the clevis style lower mount. The ones with an eye mount on both ends are a bit stronger. But the clevis type have a major stress riser at the upper corners of the mounting slot. The threaded part where the clevis screws into the lower shock body is also very thin. They are OK for a bike that weighs in around 400 lbs., but your bike is WAAAAAY over that. Those shocks will break. Go get some Hagons, or even some Progressive Suspensions. Please!
    Thanks for the welcome and rational advice. Those clevis adapters did feel a bit chintzy, but unless you had said something, I probably would've dismissed it as I've seen a number of other Wings with these same or similar shocks.

    I'll probably get the bike rolling with them (since I have them now) but I'll investigate other options before riding.

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  5. #14
    Senior Member o1marc's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by propav8r View Post
    Thanks for the welcome and rational advice. Those clevis adapters did feel a bit chintzy, but unless you had said something, I probably would've dismissed it as I've seen a number of other Wings with these same or similar shocks.

    I'll probably get the bike rolling with them (since I have them now) but I'll investigate other options before riding.
    They made the RFY look like Ohlins, light years apart in quality and price. Hagon will custom build you a shock based on your weight, bike weight, and riding style for a bit over $200.
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    You fucking legend.... aside all the discussion henceforth, therewithin and whatwithout.......

    Buffet racer..........


    I've just expelled myself....... go and stand in the corner.....

  7. #16
    Senior Member CaTacL1sm's Avatar
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    You can't go wrong with the price per performance of progressives
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  8. #17
    Senior Member Farmer_John's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by 8ball View Post
    I actually like the old GL's. People tend to forget that they were marketed as a Super (sized) Sport bike. Big and powerful...

    ...Other than that I will be watching with interest. You seem to be very proficient mechanically. I have a feeling that what you will end up with will be interesting and different. Just remember (since this is your first bike, so presumably are not familiar with bike dynamics), cars and bikes handle differently and their dynamics don't correlate. For instance, lowering a car makes it turn better. It makes a bike harder to turn. (just an example)
    Same here, but admittedly, I seem attracted to the oddball stuff.

  9. #18
    Senior Member propav8r's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by pwalo View Post
    You fucking legend.... aside all the discussion henceforth, therewithin and whatwithout.......

    Buffet racer..........


    I've just expelled myself....... go and stand in the corner.....
    Glad somebody caught that

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  10. #19
    Senior Member Geeto67's Avatar
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    1978's kind of an odd year. It's still a "naked wing" with all the the positives and short comings that come with that, but it's also not very collectible and benefits from some of the later parts upgrade compatibility that later wings enjoyed.

    so how is your frame on this? the one thing I do know (and honestly I don't really know much about naked wings) are that the frames were prone to water collection and tended to rust from the inside. I looked at a 1979 years ago that was "free" to me and had lesters on it and I passed because the cradle under the engine was so brittle if I moved the bike it would have broken in half. You had damage to the center stand area, and most times damage to this area is cracking from rusting out and becoming weaker, you said it looked like it had been hit, but is it possible it rusted enough to get brittle and then putting the bike on the stand cracked it?

    Someone already posted Randaak's "endurance racer" naked wing. It's a stunning bike and the closer you get to that bike the better off you are. There were some other real endurance racing GL1000s but most of them used custom chassis or at least heavily modified.

    The stock brakes on the wing suck, they are single puck calipers and not very big. Later bikes used a twin piston caliper setup and I think the 1983 front end can be adapted to the earlier bikes, but you would need to research further (they use the same bottom neck bearing, but the top on a 78 is a 25x47x15 where as the 83is a 26x47x15) and understand you can't just mix and match components, you would need to use the whole front end from tree to tire.

    Lowering wings never make them handle better, ground clearance is the limiting factor. This doesn't mean you jack one up to the sky, but you shouldn't slam one down either. Like the SOHC cb750s they actually have pretty short trail and changes in "Rake" can actually make them twitchy or make them harder to turn in.
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  11. #20
    Senior Member propav8r's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Geeto67 View Post
    1978's kind of an odd year. It's still a "naked wing" with all the the positives and short comings that come with that, but it's also not very collectible and benefits from some of the later parts upgrade compatibility that later wings enjoyed.

    so how is your frame on this? the one thing I do know (and honestly I don't really know much about naked wings) are that the frames were prone to water collection and tended to rust from the inside. I looked at a 1979 years ago that was "free" to me and had lesters on it and I passed because the cradle under the engine was so brittle if I moved the bike it would have broken in half. You had damage to the center stand area, and most times damage to this area is cracking from rusting out and becoming weaker, you said it looked like it had been hit, but is it possible it rusted enough to get brittle and then putting the bike on the stand cracked it?

    Someone already posted Randaak's "endurance racer" naked wing. It's a stunning bike and the closer you get to that bike the better off you are. There were some other real endurance racing GL1000s but most of them used custom chassis or at least heavily modified.

    The stock brakes on the wing suck, they are single puck calipers and not very big. Later bikes used a twin piston caliper setup and I think the 1983 front end can be adapted to the earlier bikes, but you would need to research further (they use the same bottom neck bearing, but the top on a 78 is a 25x47x15 where as the 83is a 26x47x15) and understand you can't just mix and match components, you would need to use the whole front end from tree to tire.

    Lowering wings never make them handle better, ground clearance is the limiting factor. This doesn't mean you jack one up to the sky, but you shouldn't slam one down either. Like the SOHC cb750s they actually have pretty short trail and changes in "Rake" can actually make them twitchy or make them harder to turn in.
    Except for that one small section beside the center stand, the frame appears solid. I've been over it pretty thoroughly at this point and haven't found any other red flags. The tube that carries the center stand is surprisingly thin metal. There was surface rust all around the jagged edges of the break before I hit it with the wire wheel. It had been that way for awhile.

    The metal there was pretty clearly ripped/torn. That jagged edge isn't something you get from rust. That center stand hangs down low, and could have easily gotten caught on a curb or something.

    I don't particularly care about collectiblity or what other people would want it to look like.

    As far as front end swaps, gixxer forks are a relatively popular swap. I'm not sure what the real benefits/tradeoffs are, but it's done pretty frequently. Upsized master cylinders are also available to move a little more fluid and give the stock brakes more bite. Again, I'm going to hold off on spending money there until I get the bike running/riding and get a feel for it.

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