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CB400T Shitbox Build - Daily Driver

This is a discussion on CB400T Shitbox Build - Daily Driver within the Project Builds forums, part of the Caferacer.net Forums category; Originally Posted by Cyorg Looks like you were trying to impart some white knuckled energy through the twisT grip. Oh that was just all my ...

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Thread: CB400T Shitbox Build - Daily Driver

  1. #101
    Member jakejensen's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Cyorg View Post
    Looks like you were trying to impart some white knuckled energy through the twisT grip.
    Oh that was just all my hopes and dreams, leaking out of my soul hoping that it would start haha! I tried to keep the twist under control but seriously could not do it. Showing my inexperience i suppose, but y’all already knew. Can’t hide it so why try!?

  2. #102
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    Quote Originally Posted by 8ball View Post
    Quote Originally Posted by irk_miller View Post
    The series type also saves the stator. Current depends on load (turn lights off, current goes down), where the shunt style just shunts more current when you turn things off, which creates heat. Also shunt or mosfet style increase voltage with rpm's where the series type remains constant. IMO, this is reason enough alone to run the series type with LiFePO4, since there is fine line between too much voltage charging one. 14.8v is absolute max.

    For anyone keeping notes, another series option is Compufire 55402. I think the Compufire is more expensive, but can be found in the $80 range on Ebay. The Polaris is a Shindengen SH775, so if you search under it's Chinese moniker, you can find it for less than $50.
    Yeah, I guess I didn't close out the illustration with the benefits. I edited it to list them.

    Also beware of many of the cheap ebay units. They may be listed under SH775, but some of them are still shunt types in the SH775 casing. If it does not specifically list it as a "series type" regulator, I'd steer away. And some of the Mosfet types look identical to the Polaris SH775 unit. The R1 regs look the same, but are not series type units. I beieve the Triumph unit that the wire harness mates up to is also a Mosfet, and it looks just like the SH775.
    8ball, Boys,; thank you all so so much for the advice! Keeping this build centered on reliability is my priority, this is great stuff. I‘ma take a Look at it

  3. #103
    jcw
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    Even a 2018 GSXR750 uses a shunt type regulator that gets so hot during high rpm running on the track that you can't touch it. No wonder there are failures with these as well.



    This guy (different from the video) sells quality stuff too. My 40yo yamaha has been running last 3 years with one of his R/R and a LiFePO battery for two years with no issues so far. Maybe the 14.5V charging voltage is a tiny bit high(?), but so far so good.

    http://www.oregonmotorcycleparts.com/FAQ.html
    Last edited by jcw; 11-07-2018 at 04:39 PM.

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  5. #104
    Senior Member irk_miller's Avatar
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    14.5v is fine. You can literally go to max, but it becomes unsafe if you go over. Nothing may ever happen, but the risk is there. I think most LiFePO4 nowadays have the board set up to cover the explosive failure of before, so it may no longer matter, even above 14.8v. I dunno. That was always the number given to me. My CB750 hits 14.6v, but has never gone above it. The only other bike I have run one in is my F650, which currently has one with the Compufire regulator.

  6. #105
    jcw
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    Who is the guy over at DTT that sells those "smart" batteries?

  7. #106
    Senior Member irk_miller's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by jcw View Post
    Who is the guy over at DTT that sells those "smart" batteries?
    I assume you mean Matthew Arck aka Sonreir. He owns Sparck Moto and Vintage Connections. He sells the EarthX batteries through Sparck Moto. I'm using Shorai batteries, and unfortunately, through fault of my own, I have killed two from totally discharging.

  8. #107
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    After looking through the thread, I realized that I forgot to put this up, might be helpful if anybody reads it at a later date. When I put the engine back together with the new parts, I got the following email from the manufacturer that makes the piston rings I bought. I bought a pair of replacement Standard TKRJ Piston rings for a Honda CB400 and asked them how to orient the rings, because they lacked the "T" mark that the factory ones had.

    Good-Sir,
    Thank you very much for your question.
    Please check following our comments.

    1. Chrome ring is TOP. Jet black one is 2nd.

    2. Top : no side. (no problem to put it on upside down)
    Second: S mark is upper. (I think you can see “S” on the edge of ring.

    Thanks and best regards.



    ++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++
    UEDA MOTORCYCLE CO.,LTD 【TKRJ】

    Toshihiko Sakano

    2-9-18 Nishitanabe-cho, Abeno-ku,
    Osaka 545-0014 Japan

  9. #108
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    I looked at the R/R last night with the shape of the wiring harness on the bike side. Looks like it wouldn't be too hard to convert it over to accept blade fuses, the fuse box only has three slots. Name:  reg1.jpg
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  10. #109
    Senior Member woodsman's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by irk_miller View Post
    I think most LiFePO4 nowadays have the board set up to cover the explosive failure of before,
    even so you'll still want a firewall between your balls and the battery.

  11. #110
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    So, update from today. I was reading a thread on HondaTwins where the fella did an EXHAUSTIVE resto on a cb400.... I think he also switched out the case halves with a cb450 to keep 6 gears and get a kick starter.

    Anyways, he inspired me to dig into my electrical interfacing to be sure there isnt any issues there. I feel like the throttle and kill-start-blinker module was alright looking. There was some moisture in there so I pulled it apart and rubbed the metal parts down with steel wool to break up the little bit of corrosion. I also pulled the master cylinder apart and it looks pretty hammered. The boot inside is so shrunk I dont think its even serviceable anymore. I also found some weird crystal things under the cap? I wonder if it would be a good idea to just replace the whole unit. The brake light indicator switch was completely cut loose, and the connectors were.... rough. Going forward, Im going to clean and paint the housings and dig around for a master cylinder. I dont know if I can replace just the boot or if the whole thing needs replaced. Seems like the unit is pretty cheap online, 20-30 bucks.
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