Here you go, start again. https://www.kijiji.ca/v-street-cruis...ationFlag=true
This is a discussion on 1983 V45 Sabre Cafe Racer within the Project Builds forums, part of the Caferacer.net Forums category; you are not really supposed to take those off the airbox bottom(rack)...getting that screw out is literally going to be 50 times easier than re-assembling ...
you are not really supposed to take those off the airbox bottom(rack)...getting that screw out is literally going to be 50 times easier than re-assembling and having everything work right
...drill the head off, spin the the remains out with your fingers, needle nose pliers, vice grips, etc.
Lol woodsman that bike doesn't work and is like 4 hours away from Toronto. I am not about to go that distance to get another non working bike.
I wasn't suggesting you were doing it for profit. That can be a very difficult thing to do. Just trying to keep you from getting buried too deep. As for stripped screws, get a good quality impact driver. I'm not suggesting you let lose with one on the carbs. Maybe with a bit of practice and knowing how to hold it and what you can get away with... it can be done on the larger fasteners, but you are better off drilling it (as previously mentioned) now that its knackered.
Make sure whatever tip you are using is a proper fit in the screw. Most modern good quality phillips bits will work with JIS screws (look that up). Not necessary, but nice if you can find some old T handled screw drivers. The best ones I came across were made by Kowa and sold through Honda.
ps. if you are going to buy an engine, before laying down the cash, pop the valve covers off and check the cams and followers for wear..... and when you go to adjust your valves in the future (assuming you don't come to your senses before then) you need a special tool to hold the cam while you adjust the valves.
Last edited by Cyorg; 10-20-2018 at 06:56 PM.
"Non urinat in ventum"
Adjuster on the left, holder on the right.
"Non urinat in ventum"
:I never seen anybody dismantle forks like that before, that was slightly painful to watch, did you finally figure out how to remove the stanchion tubes from the lower fork legs?
Will give you a hint; you do not need to pry it apart with sharp screwdrivers, wood chisels and gouges,
once you removed that allen bolt in the bottom of the lower fork leg you are ready to knock it apart.
Buy an impact screwdriver like the one Cyborg posted above and save your JIS screws from damage, (I bought mine when I was 11 years old & it still works great) if the dome head screws get completely rounded :/ use a hack saw blade to turn it into a straight slot screw, drive it out with the straight slot bit on your impact driver and then replace it with the appropriate sized allen head machine screw that you can buy from somewhere like Brafasco.
Haha ye, it was comedic. Eventually it clicked in that there was a snap ring in there, which i took out later on that day. I bought a hand impact screw driver, will attempt it later on today, but i fear its drill time already. I disassembled and cleaned one of the carbs, the idle jet as expected was completely clogged. A bunch of the screws on the carbs themselves have been stripped or all out swapped. So i'll have to replace most of them.
I did some research, and i don't have the means to do soda blasting or sonic bath to remove the harder residue from the carbs. So what would the experts on here suggest to use for a 24h-48h soaking bath? I've heard of all sorts of wierd things like gasoline, lemon juice, Sea Foam, Acetone, etc.
It's a very strange and rare substance that you need, I once was told by very old and wizened japanese mechanic that this substance can be found at an auto parts store but that doesn't really make any sense and he was very hard to understand due to his strong accent...I think he called it CARB-R-8-OR CLEANER but I really cant be sure