1977 BMW R100/7 Sarcoplasmic Cow Hellride. - Page 4
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1977 BMW R100/7 Sarcoplasmic Cow Hellride.

This is a discussion on 1977 BMW R100/7 Sarcoplasmic Cow Hellride. within the Project Builds forums, part of the Caferacer.net Forums category; Ha. Yeah, if I had a two-piece drive shaft, it probably would've been good. I like it lowered with a single driveshaft better. Much less ...

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Thread: 1977 BMW R100/7 Sarcoplasmic Cow Hellride.

  1. #31
    Senior Member irk_miller's Avatar
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    Ha. Yeah, if I had a two-piece drive shaft, it probably would've been good. I like it lowered with a single driveshaft better. Much less sway this way.
    jcw likes this.

  2. #32
    Senior Member kenessex's Avatar
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    Those early superbikes, BMW and everybody else, were big fat cheaters. On the BMW, they also machined the base of the cylinders at an angle, so the cylinder heads were angled up a couple of degrees for even fractionally more ground clearance.
    WERA 119
    CCS 119
    CRA 119
    AHRMA not anymore
    \"Think twice before you speak, and then you may be able to say something more insulting than if you spoke right out at once.\"
    Evan Esar
    Newbies, Geeto and Tex (Bye Tex)hate me!!

  3. #33
    Senior Member XB33BSA's Avatar
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    Name:  riser kit 001.JPG
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Size:  2.56 MBName:  riser kit 011.JPG
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Size:  2.31 MBName:  riser kit 012.JPG
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Size:  1.70 MB

    hey eric here is some images of the kit i fabbed for my tl
    originally i was using the tl clipons above the triple utilizing the cap extensions
    then i went full on mx bars hence the bar risers bolted into top triple
    i also nedded to raise the tl windscreen so i put in the rotating assembly in stem
    i have the female half just left it at the storage unit
    i drilled a drainhole in each cup after i discovered rust would be an issue
    although not a structural deal because the 1/4-20 shsc are sealed up with red loctite so water cannot get to the threads
    they have a 1/4'' thick bottom and a shallow centerting ring to get axial allighnment
    they allow 1-9/16'' to raise the front end,however once past 1.3'' the bottom triple starts loosing purchase because of tapered section begins
    Last edited by XB33BSA; 11-15-2018 at 11:30 PM.
    CaTacL1sm likes this.

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  5. #34
    Senior Member irk_miller's Avatar
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    Boxed out a mount for a monolever-style monoshock setup. I can't really call it a monolever, since I am running the twin shock swing arm, but here it is anyway.

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  6. #35
    Senior Member irk_miller's Avatar
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    Gusset.

    Name:  mono_4.JPG
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  7. #36
    Senior Member irk_miller's Avatar
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    Turning a stock /7 subframe into a custom subframe...

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  8. #37
    jcw
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    Senior Member jcw's Avatar
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    I bet welding that in would provide another degree of bracing to the swingarm area.

  9. #38
    Senior Member irk_miller's Avatar
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    I agree, jcw. I figure once I have locations confirmed and finalized, that's what I'll do. I'd lug the mounting locations and cut the stock flat mounts off, slide into the lugs and braze it all together.

    In anticipation of possibly being at the end of the sheer strength for the 10mm lower shock mounts, they've been sleeved and a brace has been fabbed to share the load with the axle. I've also considered drilling out the hub and running the stud into a time-sert, which I think would make a stronger mount for the stud.

    Name:  mono_6.JPG
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    Last edited by irk_miller; 11-18-2018 at 10:48 AM.

  10. #39
    Senior Member XB33BSA's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by irk_miller View Post
    I agree, jcw. I figure once I have locations confirmed and finalized, that's what I'll do. I'd lug the mounting locations and cut the stock flat mounts off, slide into the lugs and braze it all together.

    In anticipation of possibly being at the end of the sheer strength for the 10mm lower shock mounts, they've been sleeved and a brace has been fabbed to share the load with the axle. I've also considered drilling out the hub and running the stud into a time-sert, which I think would make a stronger mount for the stud.

    Name:  mono_6.JPG
Views: 126
Size:  2.44 MB
    i like that
    a very important deal is the mating surfaces at the fd to swingarrm flange
    both need to be dead flat and idealy the holes in the steel flange chamfered so that the contact is concentrared to the most outboard area
    best way to check the surfaces is clean and blue them then use a precision something like a large gauge block to swipe the blued surface with to witness high spots
    also a strap going from the axle to the steel flange near the lower stud location and welded to the edge of flange will do quite a bit to strengthen the assembly against the loads
    it could be a triangle that picks up the shock stud as well
    the piece is tension loaded 12 gauge cr steel would be plenty stout

  11. #40
    Senior Member irk_miller's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by XB33BSA View Post
    i like that
    a very important deal is the mating surfaces at the fd to swingarrm flange
    both need to be dead flat and idealy the holes in the steel flange chamfered so that the contact is concentrared to the most outboard area
    best way to check the surfaces is clean and blue them then use a precision something like a large gauge block to swipe the blued surface with to witness high spots
    also a strap going from the axle to the steel flange near the lower stud location and welded to the edge of flange will do quite a bit to strengthen the assembly against the loads
    it could be a triangle that picks up the shock stud as well
    the piece is tension loaded 12 gauge cr steel would be plenty stout
    I have a nice Starrett surface plate they've been run on with sandpaper and oil. I do the same to my carb flanges. In the past, but for a brake mount, I reamed the plate to have an OD that matched the sleeve's OD, then machined the sleeve to have a length that met the outer of the plate, then welded them together. Wondering if I need to go to such lengths here.

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