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1980 Honda CB750F Cafe Build

This is a discussion on 1980 Honda CB750F Cafe Build within the Project Builds forums, part of the Caferacer.net Forums category; Well I still question your sanity, but you get my vote for the official CafeRacer.net Tenacity Award for soldiering on in the face of adversity..... ...

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Thread: 1980 Honda CB750F Cafe Build

  1. #71
    Senior Member Cyorg's Avatar
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    Well I still question your sanity, but you get my vote for the official CafeRacer.net Tenacity Award for soldiering on in the face of adversity..... and actually completing a major project.

    BTW I have done a few things that make me think I am eminently qualified to question your sanity.

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    "Non urinat in ventum"

  2. #72
    Senior Member brad black's Avatar
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    as nice as it looks in its black and goldness, i still think it'd be kinda fun to drop it from a height in excess of 870 feet.
    woodsman likes this.

  3. #73
    Senior Member tjurek51's Avatar
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    only included the pics of the 900C build upon request. Getting back to the 750F build. the one I hope to really win your respect on. on the racing bikes, I see a different style clutch cover/actuator. is this a hydraulic clutch v. Dry Clutch. any ideas on where to find those? custom and racing cycle sites I've looked at don't have these for DOHC engines, but I see them in some of the racing bike pictures.

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  5. #74
    Senior Member Geeto67's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by tjurek51 View Post
    only included the pics of the 900C build upon request. Getting back to the 750F build. the one I hope to really win your respect on. on the racing bikes, I see a different style clutch cover/actuator. is this a hydraulic clutch v. Dry Clutch. any ideas on where to find those? custom and racing cycle sites I've looked at don't have these for DOHC engines, but I see them in some of the racing bike pictures.

    The point is you learned something.

    Now, the original HRC Freddie Spenser bike used a "dry clutch" setup from AHM that once was available but that has since been discontinued and if you find one - buy a ton of lotto scratchers because your luck is that good. Some race bike parts suppliers have made small runs of them over the years, but the only one that is still currently being offered is probably more than your bike is worth:

    https://www.neateracing.com/shop/hon...00-dry-clutch/


    Now there are hydraulic clutch conversions that are a little more wallet friendly:

    https://japan.webike.net/products/9726709.html

    It's still a stock wet clutch, just actuated by a hydrualic ram.
    Ever tried. Ever failed. No matter. Try Again. Fail again. Fail better.
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    A tool is just an opportunity with a handle
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  6. #75
    Senior Member woodsman's Avatar
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    What's 2300 pounds when your honouring Freddie? I think you need that Neate clutch.

  7. #76
    Senior Member tjurek51's Avatar
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    Continuing the breakdown
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    Not that I'm worrying about looks before function, but when I have the engine in its component parts, I figured it would be the best time to get that aluminum polished up. Any products/ideas you have worked with that work for that sort of thing?
    Last edited by tjurek51; 04-18-2019 at 06:02 AM.

  8. #77
    Senior Member tjurek51's Avatar
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    New question for you all. I had some clutch slip no my 900 and so installed plates and heavy duty springs (4 of them). now, I can't get the clutch to disengage, even with adjusting the actuator screw. When replacing regular clutch springs (OEM) with heavy duty springs, is there a trick to it? do I have to drop a plate set? I've ordered the extra plus 1 Barnett plates for this project, but figured i'd start seeing what i'm up against while at the same time fixing a slipping problem.


    thanks.

  9. #78
    jcw
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    Senior Member jcw's Avatar
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    Your clutch stack height is probably off. Too many plates?
    Have a shop manual?

  10. #79
    Senior Member Cyorg's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by tjurek51 View Post
    New question for you all. I had some clutch slip no my 900 and so installed plates and heavy duty springs (4 of them). now, I can't get the clutch to disengage, even with adjusting the actuator screw. When replacing regular clutch springs (OEM) with heavy duty springs, is there a trick to it? do I have to drop a plate set? I've ordered the extra plus 1 Barnett plates for this project, but figured i'd start seeing what i'm up against while at the same time fixing a slipping problem.


    thanks.
    What does the lever feel like when you pull it in?

    Can you remove all of the slack with the adjusting screw ( the one on the clutch cover that presses up against the release bearing). I don't have a manual, so just going from memory.

    Maybe your adjusting sequence? Slack off both ends of the cable. Adjust the screw in the cover. Turn in till it touches and back it off whatever the manual says..probably 1 turn and lock it. then adjust the cable at the bottom until it has the specified freeplay and then take care of whatever is left at the lever.
    Last edited by Cyorg; 04-20-2019 at 03:21 PM.
    "Non urinat in ventum"

  11. #80
    Senior Member Geeto67's Avatar
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    I have had this problem with SOHCs and the solution is either stock springs with barnett plates and fibers or stock plates and fibers with barnett springs, but not both.
    Ever tried. Ever failed. No matter. Try Again. Fail again. Fail better.
    - Samuel Beckett
    A tool is just an opportunity with a handle
    - Kevin Kelly

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