Triumph Trophy 900 build
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Triumph Trophy 900 build

This is a discussion on Triumph Trophy 900 build within the Project Builds forums, part of the Caferacer.net Forums category; Its been a while since I did much forum posting but today it was cold, grey and wet outside and I decided writing about stuff ...

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Thread: Triumph Trophy 900 build

  1. #1
    Senior Member unclerob's Avatar
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    Triumph Trophy 900 build

    Its been a while since I did much forum posting but today it was cold, grey and wet outside and I decided writing about stuff instead of actually doing it was a good plan....
    So, to start at the beginning I built this a year or so ago, based on a '91 Trident 900

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    The idea was to then build a more road focused bike based on what I'd learnt from the first build....that got put on hold for a while doing other stuff....

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    And finally got going on the Mark 2 version a couple of weeks ago.....

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    Its only a 'test' frame made using cheap tube and built freehand but has quite a few alterations from the original design....steeper head angle....room to remove cam cover!...more space for carbs and airbox and slightly closer together seat tubes.
    I've now started using it to re design the bodywork and once I'm happy everything goes together I'll make a jig and then a copy in proper CFS tube....

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  2. #2
    jcw
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    Love it that you can throw together cheap tubing for a test frame. That's skill right there!
    Last edited by jcw; 01-16-2019 at 07:59 PM.

  3. #3
    Senior Member TrialsRider's Avatar
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    Unclerob is a builder. Real motorcycle builders deserve great respect and much respect goes your way unclerob.
    You have a great hobby going on there, make sure you sign your work.

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  5. #4
    Senior Member steveo's Avatar
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    Just out of interest Rob, is the front disc on the silver bike from All Bike Engineering?...Only I spoke to them yesterday, and as you said the prices are very good. Quoted me £65.
    "It's better to keep your mouth shut and appear stupid than to open it and remove all doubt"

  6. #5
    Senior Member unclerob's Avatar
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    Yes it is Steve, though I painted the centre....they make fork stanchions too btw....cheaper than re chroming!

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  7. #6
    Senior Member BigAl8295's Avatar
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    Cool project.

    It's hard enough changing that middle spark plug in the stock frame. Are you going to be able to get in there?
    I like my shocks like I like my carryout. Cheap and Chinese.

  8. #7
    Senior Member XB33BSA's Avatar
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    great way to go modeling it full scale like that
    if you dont mind the input the front tubes that tie in the heater ,it is solid mounts right? no rubber?
    anyway you could improve the structure and give it a more pleasing aesthetic by having those downtubes made up of 2 tubes each in a long V and tieing in to the headstock in a more structurally friendly manner

  9. #8
    Senior Member unclerob's Avatar
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    Thanks for the input....I enjoy making frames but often don't get it quite right so using cheap tube makes mistakes less costly.....theres maybe £15 worth of steel in this one so far!
    Taking the diagonal tube from the swingarm pivot to the headstock as an example, getting 2 bends in different planes spaced apart correctly isn't easy.... so generally I find it easier to make something like that in 2 or 3 sections, butt weld them together....then use that as a pattern to make the actual piece.
    Good spot about the centre plug! the first frame that I built last year I couldn't remove the cam cover.....just checked though and luckily the plug comes out reasonably easy!
    I'd agree with you XB that the headstock arrangement isn't very pretty structurally.... the motor is solidly mounted though btw, at 6 points .... this was the way I did it on the first frame last year....

    Attachment 96521

    And on this one I'm still not yet entirely sure how I'll finish it. The 2 biggest concerns are arranging things so that is enough space to be able to actually weld them fully and then devising a sequence so that distortion is minimised. Thats something I've yet to really sort out here....I had similar problems at first with the frames I've been making for Honda motors...

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    I don't like the thought of the stresses caused by just welding a frame completely and then pulling out any distortion afterward but eventually hit on the idea of only fully welding certain areas (in a careful sequence) where the most distortion occurs, then check it for alignment and pull straight if needed before completing the welding to 'lock' everything in place....

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    Anyway, all that said I haven't actually gone any further with the frame yet and have moved over to making a start on new bodywork instead....

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    CaTacL1sm likes this.

  10. #9
    Senior Member Cyorg's Avatar
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    Like your frame jig. That base looks like a good setup. I lag bolted mine to to garage floor and used a heavy X/Y axis mill table to hold the headstock. You have a much better setup there (including the knee pad). I used pillow blocks to hold the swingarm pivot shaft . I didn't know it at the time, but they came in handy when drilling swing arm gussets. What do you use for a tube bender and what do you use for getting into (welding) tight spaces?

    https://www.spa-welding.com/space-mag-89.html

    Nice work btw!
    Last edited by Cyorg; 01-18-2019 at 10:05 AM.
    "Non urinat in ventum"

  11. #10
    jcw
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    If you fully weld it then hit the tubes with some heat from an oxy acet torch in your jig it will take a lot of the stress out of the frame.
    Last edited by jcw; 01-18-2019 at 06:22 PM.

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