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My Ape project

This is a discussion on My Ape project within the Project Builds forums, part of the Caferacer.net Forums category; The bike runs 120/70 and 180/55 stock. That is kinda ridiculous for a 70hp 280# bike. The rear rim is a 5.5". Marchesini will make ...

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  1. #51
    jcw
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    The bike runs 120/70 and 180/55 stock. That is kinda ridiculous for a 70hp 280# bike. The rear rim is a 5.5".
    Marchesini will make a narrow rear rim but costs something like $1500 and takes 9 months.

    So... I bought a used cbr500r wheel off ebay and I'm going to see if I can Make It Fit...
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    Bearings need to be up sized from 17mm to 25mm, but that's easy.
    Spacing the wheel shouldn't be a problem.
    Getting the sprocket and carrier lined up, though...

    If this fits, 110/70 and 160/60 pirelli supercorsa td's are going on it.

  2. #52
    Senior Member Cyorg's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by jcw View Post
    The bike runs 120/70 and 180/55 stock. That is kinda ridiculous for a 70hp 280# bike. The rear rim is a 5.5".
    Marchesini will make a narrow rear rim but costs something like $1500 and takes 9 months.

    So... I bought a used cbr500r wheel off ebay and I'm going to see if I can Make It Fit...
    Name:  hondacbr500r.jpg
Views: 39
Size:  96.4 KB

    Bearings need to be up sized from 17mm to 25mm, but that's easy.
    Spacing the wheel shouldn't be a problem.
    Getting the sprocket and carrier lined up, though...

    If this fits, 110/70 and 160/60 pirelli supercorsa td's are going on it.
    Moving the sprocket shouldnít be to much of an issue. There is usually enough meat to move it in and you can usually move the sprocket out with a spacer and still have it (the sprocket) properly seated on the carrier.
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  3. #53
    jcw
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    tricks to finding the wheel centerline and sprocket / disc offset distances?

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  5. #54
    Senior Member Cyorg's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by jcw View Post
    tricks to finding the wheel centerline and sprocket / disc offset distances?
    Wheel centre can be done with string, but I have a couple of pieces of 2x2 6061 aluminum angle that are straight enough for the job and you can clamp them on the rim if need be. I have jigs to hold lazers for figuring out trail, but angle is easier for wheels. The sprocket, can be done with a straight edge. How you figure out where it is going depends on whether youíre moving it in or out. Depending how much room you have to work with, a piece of string or welding wire attached forward of the countershaft sprocket and fixed to something behind the bike is probably a good way to go. You can get it really snug and make sure itís running parallel to the countershaft sprocket. The disc I would just figure out as you go. Once you centre the wheel, you can decide if itís easier to move the rotor or the caliper. Do you have decent stands for the bike? At any rate there are several ways to skin the cat and youíll figure it out as you go. Just sit and stare at it for a while once you hang the wheel in there. Just donít forget tire width......
    "Non urinat in ventum"

  6. #55
    Senior Member Cyorg's Avatar
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    BTW, one of my racer/frame building mentors told me not to get too anal about centring wheels. What exactly that means for you, I don’t know. You might want to measure the bike now and see how close they are and do some research. Things like what you have there... and how much offset you can get away with are out of my wheelhouse.
    "Non urinat in ventum"

  7. #56
    jcw
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    bmw k1200r/s/gt had their wheels offset slightly. nuts, but must be a reason...

  8. #57
    Senior Member nic579's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by jcw View Post
    bmw k1200r/s/gt had their wheels offset slightly. nuts, but must be a reason...
    weird that would leave me to think the bike would turn differently depending on direction as you would be using different parts of the radius of the tires front to rear depending on direction. K bikes could be a shaft issue.

    I am half heartedly looking for a K1300s at the moment, except I sat on a ninja 1000 today and it felt like a perfect fit.
    Last edited by nic579; 07-12-2019 at 03:38 PM.

  9. #58
    Senior Member Cyorg's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by jcw View Post
    pics
    Here are a few random ones. Hard to capture the scale of things. You can get an idea of how much water comes down the river into the straight in the spring. Dark is freshwater runoff. Takes just under an hour to cross the straight. Then head through a narrow pass into the gulf islands. When in my boat, this pass isnít a problem, but some you have to time around slack tide or youíre in for a wild ride. The straight can also be a gong show. Not all that uncommon for the ferries to stop running due to high seas, so you have to study the wind, weather and tides, before venturing out. Iíve had waves coming over the bow and itís not something Iíd recommend. The novelty wears off quickly. Nice thing about taking a bike on the ferry is that youíre first on and first off.

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  10. #59
    jcw
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    Lovely...

  11. #60
    jcw
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    Wheel showed up. The sprocket offset is close to my marchesini rim. My initial rough measurements with 6" dial caliper and a straight edge are the two are within 5mm of each other.
    I don't know if I can get the front and rear wheel aligned to within 5mm, so I might just machine up spacers and call it good.

    Because of the cush drive and the need for a larger bearing, a new cush drive spacer (between the cush drive bearing and the wheel bearing) is needed. I could also add a couple mm's to this to offset the entire cush drive a tiny bit.

    Will need to still order bearings, machine down the spacers. But this looks entirely doable even without heavy machinery.

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