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Battery relocation on an ST3 Ducati

This is a discussion on Battery relocation on an ST3 Ducati within the Project Builds forums, part of the Caferacer.net Forums category; Are you talking about the one that uses a Paul Smart seat and full fairing? I have seen pictures of the development of that kit ...

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  1. #21
    Senior Member Teazer's Avatar
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    Are you talking about the one that uses a Paul Smart seat and full fairing? I have seen pictures of the development of that kit and there's one on the net in black and Gold but using a Smart/Clssic top half. The frame is very similar (if not the same) as an ST.

    I decided to use an LED headlamp because it's nice and shallow. The ECU will fit on a custom bracket behind the ignition lock/immobilizer ie above the air filter in teh space the OEM airbox lid used to occupy. Battery wil most likely end up behind the shock where the front tool box used to be - or under the seat hump if I go with a Lithiium battery. To do that I should probably fit a MOSFET R/R to better regulate the voltage and that way I can also fit it under the seat if it creates less heat than the stock shunt regulator.

    Lots of cheap "MOSFET replacement" R/Rs on ebay but I suspect they are all old school solid state shunt types and I already have one of those.

  2. #22
    Senior Member brad black's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Teazer View Post
    Are you talking about the one that uses a Paul Smart seat and full fairing? I have seen pictures of the development of that kit and there's one on the net in black and Gold but using a Smart/Clssic top half. The frame is very similar (if not the same) as an ST.

    I decided to use an LED headlamp because it's nice and shallow. The ECU will fit on a custom bracket behind the ignition lock/immobilizer ie above the air filter in teh space the OEM airbox lid used to occupy. Battery wil most likely end up behind the shock where the front tool box used to be - or under the seat hump if I go with a Lithiium battery. To do that I should probably fit a MOSFET R/R to better regulate the voltage and that way I can also fit it under the seat if it creates less heat than the stock shunt regulator.

    Lots of cheap "MOSFET replacement" R/Rs on ebay but I suspect they are all old school solid state shunt types and I already have one of those.
    yeah, this one https://www.ecwid.com/store/store108...-Kit-p77749212

    seat just looks wrong.

    hiding a mosfet reg is a lot better idea than hiding an oem, but why not leave it in the original position?

  3. #23
    Senior Member Cyorg's Avatar
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    I have to agree with you... it does look wrong. Begs the question..why would you market something like that?

    To me, that is a difficult frame/tank/seat setup to deal with if you’re looking for something that resembles a round case bevel drive.

    Guessing here, but I suspect (Teazer) that in order to get what you really want, you’re going to have to give in and break out the angle grinder. Then you can mount the seat you want.... then you can make a tank to go with it.
    "Non urinat in ventum"

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  5. #24
    Senior Member Teazer's Avatar
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    The original Tifoso design had a full fairing and that seat and subframes if I googled the right bike. To me the thing still looks fugly. His full fairing was also ugly but the seat was a better match to the tank but somehow managed to make the body look too short at the rear.

    To make it look like a bevel, I would have to change frame, tank, motor, wheels and suspension as well, so that isn't going to happen.

    I really just want to clean up the sides, though to be honest, the motor lacks the presence of air cooled. It's really slim and just hides behind the junk. I'll order a MOSFET and find somewhere to hide that. I mocked up some headlamp mounts that mount an LED headlamp to the fairing bracket on the headstock first with CAD (cardboard aided design) and then with some 1" x .125" aluminum strap to work out clearances and placement.

    Yesterday the sparks flew and part of the lower rear subframe fell off. If it stops raining today, the left will go and then I can start to clean up the mess I left and add the appropriate frame tubes in to make it look right and add some strength back. The rear end will be like a Monster of that era. The tank will stay (for now at least). With a rider on it looks like a 916-996 with the lower part obscured by the rider's knees.

    I have to remember, that this is supposed to be a cheap project, not the no expense spared bike of my dreams. The budget is tiny. No S2R swingarm or Ohlins suspension but I might fit an adjustable rear shock link and maybe a set of 25mm cartridges to improve suspension. In the meantime, the pile of discarded bit continues to grow.

  6. #25
    Senior Member Cyorg's Avatar
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    I was thinking more along the lines of what Steveo did, but not sure if the ST3 frame lends itself to that sort of look without surgery. As for making a tank..... that just may have been a misery loves company kind of thing.

    https://www.caferacer.net/forum/proj...a-project.html
    "Non urinat in ventum"

  7. #26
    Senior Member Teazer's Avatar
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    Had to get back to a couple of other rebuilds, but the rear subframe has now been hacked down to size. ST frames are obviously designed to hold panniers at the rear and have "extra" frame tubes, so the lowers have been removed where they change direction. I'll weld in a straight section - like an early Monster to clean up the back end.

    I have tried every seat in the shop to try to get the back end bodywork looking right, and the closest I have come so far is a shortened dirt track seat that will need a lot of modification to make it work as intended. When that is finalized I can then work out the answer to the original question - where should the battery go. The answer is most likely under the front of the seat where the old front tool tray used to be. I did get a MOSFET R/R and it can probably live there too without giving me a heated seat.

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