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New build questions

This is a discussion on New build questions within the Project Builds forums, part of the Caferacer.net Forums category; [QUOTE=Geeto67;639703] Originally Posted by ruffrider This will be a daily rider, I’m looking for reliability over performance yeah....I wouldn't assume that just because something is ...

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  1. #11
    Junior Member ruffrider's Avatar
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    [QUOTE=Geeto67;639703]
    Quote Originally Posted by ruffrider View Post
    This will be a daily rider, I’m looking for reliability over performance
    yeah....I wouldn't assume that just because something is a "performance" part doesn't mean it's reliable. When it comes to suspension stuff - performance stuff is not only "reliable" in it's function, it puts less wear on other components like swingarm busings, tires, etc.

    Quote Originally Posted by ruffrider View Post
    I am enjoying the build, don’t worry about my finances if I was concerned about that I would go on a financial forum,
    Ok, if you want us to spend your money, fine. I just don't want to hear some whiny bitchy excuse later on down the road about $800 for ohlins when you overpaid for cognito moto gsxr swap parts. [QUOTE=ruffrider;639699]
    Quote Originally Posted by ruffrider View Post
    Quote Originally Posted by ruffrider View Post

    thank you for all the advice on what I am looking at and what I are good or bad options for the build.
    I will be adding a seat loop, hoping for an intergraded led light, any lighting opinions? Headlight also
    Cheers

    I feel like I should have done this at the beginning before you went and started buying parts but meh....

    Rear end:
    - Swingarm: for pure bolt on source a 1983 cb1100F swingarm. It's steel painted silver to look like it's alloy, but it's a nice heavy piece of kit and is better than the round tube and pressed steel stocker. If you really want the best of the best reach out to https://www.motogpwerks.com/ and get your name on the waiting list for one of his cal-tech superbike swingarms. It will also solve some of your problems as to how to get a disc brake to work on your drum brake rear swingarm.

    - GO buy Ohlins or Works shocks from a real dealer (not just off the internet). Why a real local retailer? because they will set them up for your weight and the bikes weight. you wil get better rebound, better damping, and if you buy ohlins that will impress everyone.

    - Rear wheel and brakes: Honestly you already bought the F4i wheel, but I would have recommended the cbr600F2 rear wheel instead. why? the chain line is already correct and it swaps right on to the cb750 rear axle just by mixing and matching spacers. Yes it limits you to a 160 rear tire, but do you really need 180? the F4i rear wheel probably also fits the rear axle but I don't know about the chain line - the F4 was a pretty big departure from the prev-gen f2/3 bikes.
    - rear hoop- rea
    - Foot controls: honda in europe sold cb750F's with rearset lower foot plates called "sport kits". these are bolt on to your bike if you get the longer F model engine mounting bolts since they mount to the rear engine mount at the frame. The most desireable ones are the trellis design off the cb1100f. stock 750/900F sport kits should run you about $150 plus shipping, but trellis ones are about double that. They are built like a bridge since you are worried about "reliable". All the bolt on aftermarket versions like these Tarozzi Rearsets Fixed Rubber Covered Footpegs by Tarozzi require the euro sport kit foot plates off an 79-82 F model supersport anyway so you are kind of limited. Everything else requires welding.

    - rear hoop: yeah these are pretty stupid. IT comes from people copying the rear fender mount on british bikes, but often people make too many mistakes when installing them. There needs to be clearance at full compression between your rear tire and the "hoop" and 99% of the "flat ones" I see out there don't have that. rubbing the tread off your rear tire is hard;y safe or reliable, esp if you are buying an expensive tire. This guy covers in detail what I am talking about so read here: https://purposebuiltmoto.com/fitting...cer-tail-hoop/

    lighting:

    So the trick to "good lighting" is when the bike is off to look like there are almost no lights on the thing, but when the bike is on and running at night it looks like one of those thousand light big rigs running down the highway.

    If I can't talk you out of the almost invisible nonsense that as hoop with an integrated taillight, then let me at least try to convince you to add more "semi-hidden" lights so that when you step on the brake the driver behind you is actually aware and your piece of safety equipment actually acts like one.

    - Helmet light: These work like a 3rd brake light on your car - putting a safety light at eye level and even integrating your turn signals. Plus it isn't on the bike so when you park, those people you are trying to hard to impress aren't going to deduct "points" for a visible taillight https://www.arosetop.com/products/ar...CABEgKutvD_BwE

    - flexible LED lights: I don't have a link on this because you can get them anywhere. Part of the problem with an "integrated" signa/tailight is visibility from the side, and believe me that matters. The nice thing about most waterproof flexible LED strips is the can conform to most shapes and can be hidden on most black surfaces when off. so putting a few on the black exposed frame rails of your bike on the side to act as side signals isn't going to hurt your "style points". you can also mount them to bodywork to help hide them.

    catch my drift?
    Thanks so much for that reply, I agree with your lighting points, safety is always key, I will be rethinking that for sure

  2. #12
    Senior Member Geeto67's Avatar
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    "works" is now worx btw: http://www.worxshocks.com
    I jut am in the habit of calling them works

    Call up racetech and ask them what to do about your forks. They probably have the best experience with this. they can tell you about springs, fluid, and upgrade parts: https://www.racetech.com/
    Ever tried. Ever failed. No matter. Try Again. Fail again. Fail better.
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  3. #13
    jcw
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    Senior Member jcw's Avatar
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    As an aside...

    I am slowly wrapping my head around "sprung for your weight" and what spring rates and performance means in a sport bike. It's not as obvious as one might think.

    For a track bike, sag is a number that results from your set up of the bike to perform well. Not a baseline you start your tuning with.
    For a street bike, on the other hand, sag is always described as one of the baseline "magic" numbers.


    I agree with the above comments that if this is to be a daily reliable driver and not a track performance machine, money is better spent on something rebuildable, but less pricey than Ohlins.
    One good thing about the GSXr forks is that there is SO much aftermarket support for them. Just about anyone could tune the forks, fit cartridges, change springs, adjust oil level etc. You can even gather tools to DIY, too. And they have the adjustability to be able to adapt to your particular machine.
    One thing not mentioned was getting advice from suspension shop about matching the forks to whatever shocks you eventually choose. Matching the dampening characteristics front to rear makes for a much more finished end product.

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  5. #14
    Senior Member woodsman's Avatar
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    This frame has been built according to the engineers design, as opposed to chopped and welded in some weekend warriors garage, note the "hoop" at the rear. More rigid and out of the way of the tire. Cutting your frame and adding a hoop will do nothing but devalue the bike, it's wasted time and motorcycles.Name:  StaffordApril2019 074.JPG_thumb.png
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  6. #15
    Senior Member TrialsRider's Avatar
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    Somebody might know about the forks, somebody might know about the rear, but nobody on earth is going to know what a bitsa is going to need for suspension adjustments until they attempt to ride it.
    The only thing we know for sure is it will be freakin long and heavy. (regardless of how many body parts are left off during assembly)

  7. #16
    Senior Member oldhondacafe's Avatar
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    Hi, I guess I'll put my 2 cents in too. I did a '78 cb750f a few years ago , I swapped oyt the stock front end for a 1990 cbr1000 and realy like it. the 41mm forks give a much more confident feel and the dual disk brakes are a great improvement. I did some other mods that I'm still refining and would caution you to not do to much at once to your bike. For instance , i swapped the swingarm and went to the monoshock. I won't do that on the dual cam 750f that I'm planning to build, Ijust think it's too much and I believe the factory had it right. The trade offs for this mod didn't justify the need for it, I did it mostly because I saw a lot of people doing it and thought ,why not? I'm 65 years old now and dont ride like i used to, I mostly ride to commute. If I really feal like it, I have a TL100r to get stupid on. My favorite ride is my old 1980 cb750c, it's soft and easy like driveing a Buick. I suppose it boils down to what you plan to do with this bike, If it's a rider you should keep it simple, if it's for show, go for it? I'd like to see pics. of how it comes out so good luck!
    TrialsRider likes this.
    \'78CB750f,\'76 cb500t,\'5-CB/CL450 basketcases,\'68 CL175,\'66 CA77/in a CL72 frame,\'1971 DT1f,1988cbr1000f,1987cbr1000f

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