1969 CB175 resto
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1969 CB175 resto

This is a discussion on 1969 CB175 resto within the Project Builds forums, part of the Caferacer.net Forums category; Ok we're not going for cafe racer, yet anyway. Girlie is making her way from scoot to real bike. I'm sure she'll get tired of ...

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Thread: 1969 CB175 resto

  1. #1
    Senior Member lovethosetwins's Avatar
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    1969 CB175 resto

    Ok we're not going for cafe racer, yet anyway. Girlie is making her way from scoot to real bike. I'm sure she'll get tired of it quickly. She learned on a 250 rebel, now it's gonna be this boy. If memory serves though they were always faster back in the day.

    The picture from the guy's website we bought it from (note the seat...)


    The patient arrives at the hospital (minus the tank, no seat....)





    The carbs








    Through the carb

    Clutch basket


    The centrifugal oil filter cover comes off with a M8x1.25 bolt threaded into its center hole until the cover comes out. The crankshaft has a thread for an M6x1.0 bolt to hold the cover down. It typically is missing this bolt, though it's a good idea to bolt that filter basket cover down with one if you're missing one. Loose the basket cover, loose pressure, loose cam, loose pistons, night night.



    More to come tomorrow.

  2. #2
    Senior Member krapfever's Avatar
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    I don't think I've ever seen one of those centrifugal covers without the two tabs broken off!

    I've long suspected that the boys at Honda thought they would get a laugh out of making a basic maintenance cover that appeared to spin out using those two handy-dandy looking tabs, but really could only be removed by those in the know using the method you described above.

  3. #3
    Senior Member krapfever's Avatar
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    By the way, I've built bikes in the living room before, sure. But never right in front of the fireplace.

    That would be nice.

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  5. #4
    Senior Member Pinche Chingadera's Avatar
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    A rebuild in front of the fireplace. How heart touching.
    Once your dead, life just ain\'t worth living.

  6. #5
    Senior Member lovethosetwins's Avatar
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    Hey, gotta do it somewhere not on carpet... Garage is full of other toys and the workshop (workshop = cluttered mess of crap I work in).

    After much digging away at what looked like threebond we got the cylinder head off as a head / block assembly. It took alot more to get the head off. What possesses people to use that stuff to put a head on???

    The right side cylinder had 0 compression and was leaking out of the intake port. It becomes obvious why.



    I mean that's not even close to seating



    The rocker shafts had been cruhed on the inside ends making them nearly impossible to remove. Thanks to whoever did that



    Chilling in the corner forgotten...



    Waiting for the next check to get a sandblaster...

    Back from powdercoating...



    Got these perfect original covers off ebay for $100



    We said screw trying to fix the old head and found one on ebay that needs nothing but a good cleaning for $65. I discovered the joy of plastic, abrasive bristle rotary tool attachments.



    I love buffing







    Though I think based on what the metal looks like (the varying colors, not the fingerprints), it was intended for paint, not for show polish. It's a somewhat blotchy composition. Perhaps poor quality control at the foundry?



    I think a drunken monkey with an awl got at this piece. Ah well at least its polished.

    Got some good shocks in the other day from

    http://www.tasclassicmotorsports.com/servlet/StoreFront

    They have chrome tops and are an inch drop from stock, at 11 inches now which will look nice. I think it's a steal at 79 a pair. It's not original but it's close to original style but the springs are exposed, at least they are chrome.

    I'll post more pics again soon. I've gotta hone the cylinders and get the little bit of rust out. The bore is good though and I was able to get the rings free on the pistons so hopefully there wont be any surprises there.

    I want to give shout outs to the people at Evap-O-Rust and the dude that invented the microwave. Without you guys I'd have to work alot harder at getting bolts and springs and all that rusty hardware clean. Be proud of what you've done XP










  7. #6
    Senior Member lovethosetwins's Avatar
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    Best part of working in front of the fireplace is when you need to clean carbs you can just throw the gas / cleaner in there and torch it. It's nice for getting rid of all those boxes and newspaper that parts off ebay come in too

    quote:Originally posted by krapfever

    By the way, I've built bikes in the living room before, sure. But never right in front of the fireplace.

    That would be nice.

  8. #7
    Tang's Avatar
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    Hey man nice lookin bike u got there

    i was wondering where i could find parts for this particular bike

    my buddy hsa a 1971 CB175 and is lookin for clutch plates if you could help me out that be grand.

    one day i'll be building my cafe racer haha!

  9. #8
    Senior Member lovethosetwins's Avatar
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    I got a new set off ebay from "rusty riders" they are in ohio. The set was like 35 bucks.

  10. #9
    Senior Member lovethosetwins's Avatar
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    Ok so a lot has happened since I updated the build. I got that sandblaster from harbor freight. A note to anyone thinking about getting one there, they aren't sealed worth a damn. Sand blows out of just about every place where something connects to another, the glove holes, the seams, the glass, you freakin name it. I found this out while blasting and just taped over the lot of it with masking tape. When I change my media I'll do it right and caulk it.

    There was a bad rust spot on the headlight, blasted right through it *%$)*#$)%! I'm going to have it filled by a welder I think. I could fiberglass it but I want it to last.

    I got the headlight mounts and fork tube covers nice and clean and primed.

    The original gas tank looked beyond reasonable help (maybe one weekend when I'm feeling very very bored and motivated), so we ended up getting another from the junkyard ($40) with only minor surface rust inside. Found out while cleaning it up and stripping paint that there's body filler on several spots )#($%* and that it had been repaired at some point as there was a big weld seam on the underneath, no big deal, still cleaner than the other. I washed the inside real good with simple green, and then filled it with a gallon of evap o rust. Got all the rust out in a couple days of soaking and some shaking with aquarium gravel. Now it's clean bare metal. Stripped all the rust and paint off (several layers of different colors) and it's dressed in white epoxy primer now along with the kickstand we got off ebay, headlight mounts, etc.

    If anyone knows whether or not I could convert it to a 7 inch unit that will mount up to the stock mounts let me know. I'd really rather an H4 capsule type with a real nice modern reflector but they're all 7 inchers that I've found.

    We got the pipes pretty clean, they weren't too bad really, some minor rust spots but mostly just little pinhead sized spots. A good trick I learned when I was little was using standard aluminum foil like you use in the kitchen, ball it up and rub it on the rusty chrome (after you've cleaned the dirt and loose rust off) and just rub it on there, rinsing occasionally. The aluminum foil is softer than chrome so it only scratches it if you get rust trapped up in it, so contant rinsing is the way to prevent it. The aluminum foil is harder than the rust though so it takes it off. Plus aluminum foil is DIRT cheap compared to any sanding products which mess up chrome.

    Let's see what else... Got the steering stem back together. I managed not to loose any of the balls! Though if you DO, you can get replacement balls at ACE hardware in the bins in the back where they keep bolts and such. This is a good thing to know since they are a shit ton cheaper than ordering from honda. They have master links too for only a couple bucks. Not sure of the tensile strength though, but probably good enough for a 175 hahaa! On that note, the PO had chewed up the clutch adjuster adjusting it all the way in.. The clutch plates were worn but not THAT bad that it should have needed the extreme he had it adjusted to. After studying the parts explosion, I found that the adjuster is supposed to have a little ball bearing inside of it. It could have fallen out when he had it apart once or something. I got a new ball at ACE and now it's back to factory 0 setting and works awesome.

    The powdercoating place lost the bushings for the swingarm. They also didn't return my phone call about that.. go figure. So I went online trying to find one and no dice. I thought my ship was sunk or at least dead in the water for a while after searching around for a bushing of that size. I figured what the hell, why not try calling some manufacturers with the specs. I called up the guys at All Balls Racing and talked to their tech/sales dude who was very helpful. Turns out there is some model of Honda ATV that uses the same ID and OD bushing but it was a few mm shy lengthwise. So to remedy this I ordered 4 of them. They dropped the price for me from 17 to 7 bucks a piece. They are not urethane either, they are a super hard nylon composite. I cut them down to size with a pipe cutter with the metal bushing inside to support the bushing while cuttin and it worked great. Greased em up, pressed em in, and voila! Now I never have to worry about regreasing, seizing, anything... Since that ATV weighs more I think I'm fine on loading. We'll see.

    The shocks I ordered were a bit annoying. They look great, they look almost exactly like new Triumph Bonneville shocks actually. The bad side was the bottom mount on the bike's swingarm is for a M8 bolt, and the shock's is an M10x1.25. Solution, I pressed the metal sleeve out of the swingarm shock mount bushing. it's only a little sloppy. I might shim it up to keep it from wearing prematurely... The top was the same story, the bike has a 14mm shoulder stud welded on the frame the shock could accomodate a 12 MM I believe, so same deal, I just pushed the sleeve out of the shock and voila! They fit on pretty snugly. Now, the only thing that doesn't really fit, is the shock top isn't as mide as that shoulder stud on the fram it mounts to. Solution, M14 stainless washers! Which are taking forever to come in at my local Fastenal store.. sigh.

    Got a new chain by RK, made in Japan even, for $15 from bike bandit, along with a set of Bridgestone Battlax BT45's per lots of advice on these forums. They are tubelss style, but I'm just using tubes anyway, no biggie. Oh and I'm not allowed around tire spoons anymore for changing tubes. I killed 3 freaking tubes and finally had the shop do it. Bastard! I can't believe 3... 1, ok.. but 3.. ugh! They charged me 59 bucks and didn't even balance it! I'm going to go back and be like how come there are no weights on here dude? The shop up the street mounts and balances for $30... live and learn... live and learn... I did manage to true them up pretty nice on the bench though. Didn't bother cleaning the spokes up much. I'll let the woman do that. It is her bike afterall! If it were mine I'd toss those boat anchor chrome wheels (those guys are THICK!!) and put on some aluminum dirt bike rims. But that's me.

    The forks were a pain in the ass. I couldn't find a fork seal driver for a 32mm fork anywhere so I had to make one, after beating the slider up a bit naturally. Here's the trick, 1 1/4" galvanized steel pipe available at home depot... the longest threaded short piece you can find (oxymoron?) they call it a nipple, and a cap for it, then duct tape a 1" to 1" PVC coupler to the open end... The ridge inside the coupler it almost exactly 32mm which aligns it just right. The OD of the steel pipe fits inside the slider with maybe a mm or so to spare, just like you want it to. Keep the bolt on the top of the tube (the on that plugs the hole on the top of the fork tube), slide the homemade tool over the tube. The bolt will touch the inside of the cap and you have maybe a half inch of travel you need to push down on in order to reach the seal, which is good, since if you dont compress the spring a bit it will fight you trying to drive the seal in so the homemade seal driver actually serves a dual purpose. The springs aren't too stiff so it's easy to push down. Then you have a super hardcore and very sturdy tool you can wail the shit out of with a mini sledge to drive that bugger down into submission. Once you see the notch for the clip you're golden. I found out later they sell a "universal" fork seal driver for 45 bucks. Mine cost me $6, and I would have still done it this way if I were to have $45 and need to do it again. I think the Honda Rebels use a 32mm tube also but the parts guy said they didn't sell seal drivers... ah well..

    So what's left? I gotta get that headlight bucket fixed and then do some body work on the tank and a headlight mount, then paint it all up... Some day the rest of my bolts will come in at the freakin fastenal store and I can get the motor back together... It's timed now via my multimeter, and the valve clearances set... Just really need hardware so it can all go back together.

    I WILL POST pics soon. Gonna make Jess take them. She's a better photographer than I for sure.

  11. #10
    buckandaquarter's Avatar
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    You can buy Hella H4 bulbs that are smaller diameter (5 1/2", I think.) I have them on my cars. Expensiveish, but worth it. Refresh my memory, what size does the bike take?

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