This is a discussion on CB750K battery draining! HELP! within the Site Help and Support forums, part of the Caferacer.net Forums category; this is the battery I am looking at: https://www.amazon.com/Lithium-Power...391414&sr=8-11 I noticed that the max amperage charge it takes is 20a, and the beetle max for ...
this is the battery I am looking at:
I noticed that the max amperage charge it takes is 20a, and the beetle max for the generator is 30A, so I will have to make sure I get a voltage regulator that doesn't allow over 20A at 12v (or do I need a 20A rectifier?).
the battery charge range is 0-45 C so it won't charge below 32 degrees F which to be honest I am fine with, I have the honda if I need to ride in that low of a temp, and honestly, I think I am done with cold riding anyway.
Ever tried. Ever failed. No matter. Try Again. Fail again. Fail better.
- Samuel BeckettA tool is just an opportunity with a handle
- Kevin Kelly
I'm reposting this from another thread where I went into the Lithium battery conundrum. I used the OEM regulator and Rectifier on my old GS with my Shorai battery for one season. I kept tabs on the charging regularly, but it was not a permanent set up. I upgraded the reg/rec with a Polaris unit over the next winter:
The first thing you need to be sure of, is that the charging system is up to the task. Lithium batteries do not typically like poor charging systems (do not like, as in.....up in smoke). It is similar to why you don't plug a desktop computer into a portable generator unless it is an inverter type generator, or you have a UPS (Uninterrupted Power Source) buffering it from any spikes or dips in the power. So you need to be sure your stator is putting out good, even AC volts across all three legs and is not grounded.
Second is your rectifier. Most OEM and aftermarket replacement RR's are shunt type. These have worked fine for years, but they tend to create heat, and heat raises resistance which creates more heat, and eventually results in failed components. Mosfet type rectifiers, like the ones that Yamaha put on the newer R1's are better because they more accurately control the excess current, but they still regulate the charging voltage by shunting, or dumping, the excess current to ground. A Series type regulator rectifiers actually interrupts the circuit.
To illustrate the difference I give you this very simplistic illustration. Lets say your battery is a 5 gallon bucket that has a 1 inch hole in the bottom of it. You have a garden hose which represents the stator and rectifier portion of the reg/rec. As you fill the bucket (battery) up with water, some of the water drains out of the hole in the bottom. This is the electrical demand (lights, ignition, fans.....heated grips will cause a bigger hole). At low rpm...or with the spigot slightly open..., the water going in the bucket may just be able to keep up with the demand, but if you open the spigot more (or increase rpm) the bucket fills up faster than it is draining out. Once the bucket is full, the excess water flow has to be dealt with. This is how the RR types would deal with it:
1. A shunt type - Once the bucket is full, it dumps the water (current) onto the ground by overflowing
2. MOSFET type - When the bucket is full, you direct the hose to pour onto the ground. More precise and accurate, but still, current is going to ground and making mud (heat in the reg/rec). As the bucket drains, you direct the flow back to the bucket.
3. A series type - This hose has a sprayer attached to the end. When the bucket gets full, you release the trigger and the flow stops. When the bucket drains down a bit, you turn the hose back on.
*this is a VERY crude depiction and is only to help visualize the process
The SH775 reg/rec from a Polaris Razor is a series type....but there are many aftermarket ones that claim to be a SH775 "replacement" but are actually shunt types in an SH775 housing. So if you buy one, buy a genuine Polaris part #4012941. It is a 35 amp rated RR and regulates at 14-15 VDC. You can buy a harness for a Triumph Bonneville, cut one end off and splice the harness into your stator wires and the positive and neg leads to your rectifier. The Triumph part# is T2500676. Below are pics of my application and a photo of the invoice for the parts from Bike Bandit. This set up should work as long as you have a 3 wire stator, and a 5 wire reg/rec. (In other words, I don't know how to make an old Honda with field wires on the stator, or reg/recs that have signal wires work with this set up)
I love that crude description! for some strange reason it made me think of this lol
Is no joke, that's how it works, 2x 12 volt batteries in parallel doubles your power capacity but does not alter your voltage in the least.
You don't need to switch anything about your alternator, the only way it would be a problem is if you were drawing more then 30 amps, then those batteries would be operating at a loss, eventually that would be a problem.
Heated garage is no joke either, they are awesome
Last edited by TrialsRider; 12-04-2019 at 09:55 AM.