Rattle Can Tank Painting
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Rattle Can Tank Painting

This is a discussion on Rattle Can Tank Painting within the Technical forums, part of the Caferacer.net Forums category; I did a search and a few guys mentioned that Rustoleum paint was gas resistant and good for tanks. Others mentioned using a clearcoat over ...

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  1. #1
    Senior Member JackC's Avatar
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    Rattle Can Tank Painting

    I did a search and a few guys mentioned that Rustoleum paint was gas resistant and good for tanks. Others mentioned using a clearcoat over regular rattle can paint (then some pointed out that the clearcoat was dangerous to your lungs), while another used high temp engine paint for the clear coat. All the posts were a couple years old.

    So, what would the best way be to rattle can the tank of my C110 Classic 50 racebike project? I am more concerned with durablity than appearance.

    I know regular auto paint is best, with the hardener, but I am not set up to do that.

    Thanks

  2. #2
    Senior Member KeninIowa's Avatar
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    My parts store will mix bomb cans w/hardener.

    Have had mixed storage results. Satin black was good two years later. Argent hardened in the can within a few days.

  3. #3
    Senior Member JackC's Avatar
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    Ken, was that a chain parts store? I asked where I usually buy car parts and they didn't do it.

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  5. #4
    Senior Member spacmanspif300's Avatar
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    I have had great results with spraymax 2k clearcoat over acrylic enamel-rustloeum or duplicolor, whatever.

    I sprayed as many color coats as I want to get a good surface, and when I was done it looked badass. I waited a few weeks after spraying the acrylic before doing the 2 part clear (to allow it time to cure). This is a crucial step! Otherwise, you run the risk of the two incompatible paint vehicles not working together: the clear can lift the acrylic right off. I didn't sand the color coat, I just wiped it clean of any dust and laid the clear over it. I oversprayed the clear about 1/4" past the color coat (more like 1/2" at the fuel cap). Finally, after laying down as much clear as I wanted, a little wetsanding finished it off.

    The clearcoat is pricy, but like I said, great results. I spill a little gas all the time, sometimes I've noticed gas seeping from the cap when I overfilled the tank that had been sitting for days. The paint is unaffected. I just wipe it clean, and it's good as new. Once my wife chipped the paint a little accidentally, and I painted clear nail polish over it to keep the color layer protected and isolated. Obviously it won't protect as well as the 2-part clear coat, but it's not near the gas cap and it's better than nothing.

    More info than you needed, but anyway...good luck.

  6. #5
    Senior Member Midwest FZ Rider's Avatar
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    I have had good luck with this:

    Rust-Oleum 248944 Automotive 11-Ounce 500 Degree Engine Enamel Spray Paint, Clear


    “I love all kind of motorcycle. But especially I love cafe. Hmm, not cafe, just racer.”
    ~Shinya Kimura

  7. #6
    Senior Member Midwest FZ Rider's Avatar
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    Jeesus that is a huge pic!!! It will look milky when you spray it on but dries clear.
    “I love all kind of motorcycle. But especially I love cafe. Hmm, not cafe, just racer.”
    ~Shinya Kimura

  8. #7
    Senior Member KeninIowa's Avatar
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    Jack, it's not a chain. If you have a local Sherwin Williams paint store check with them.

    One other thing is that it takes unhardened enamel a month to fully cure. Cure time before gas exposure is your friend.

  9. #8
    Senior Member sdurand76's Avatar
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    Depending on where you're located, Napa/UAP can also do the 'oem colour matching'spray bombs with hardener (some of them)

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