DT100 crank bearing replacement
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DT100 crank bearing replacement

This is a discussion on DT100 crank bearing replacement within the Technical forums, part of the Caferacer.net Forums category; I'll be replacing crankshaft bearings soon on a '79 DT100. Do I need to be concerned with setting end play on something like this, or ...

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  1. #1
    Senior Member Luckypabst's Avatar
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    DT100 crank bearing replacement

    I'll be replacing crankshaft bearings soon on a '79 DT100. Do I need to be concerned with setting end play on something like this, or is it a simple R&R of parts?

    Thanks
    Chris

  2. #2
    Senior Member raven's Avatar
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    just mains or big end rod too? big end rod should have a spec listed some place. There is also a runout spec on truing the crank.
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  3. #3
    Senior Member raven's Avatar
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    just mains or big end rod too? big end rod should have a spec listed some place. There is also a runout spec on truing the crank.
    Bike:
    Buell X1
    Honda S90 (box of parts)
    Honda CB750C (runs)
    The Others (mostly rolling wounded)

    My collar may be a little frayed, and maybe I need a shoeshine. But nobody\'s got a mortgage on my soul. I own it. Free and clear. -Phil Lovecraft

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  5. #4
    Senior Member Luckypabst's Avatar
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    Just mains. I'm hoping it didn't suck any debris into the rod bearing... the timing side main is blown: grumbly with excessive play. I haven't split the case yet - waiting on parts before getting into it.

    Chris

  6. #5
    Senior Member Luckypabst's Avatar
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    Just mains. I'm hoping it didn't suck any debris into the rod bearing... the timing side main is blown: grumbly with excessive play. I haven't split the case yet - waiting on parts before getting into it.

    Chris

  7. #6
    Senior Member raven's Avatar
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    see how the old one is. Its probably just seated against the crank.
    Bike:
    Buell X1
    Honda S90 (box of parts)
    Honda CB750C (runs)
    The Others (mostly rolling wounded)

    My collar may be a little frayed, and maybe I need a shoeshine. But nobody\'s got a mortgage on my soul. I own it. Free and clear. -Phil Lovecraft

  8. #7
    Senior Member raven's Avatar
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    see how the old one is. Its probably just seated against the crank.
    Bike:
    Buell X1
    Honda S90 (box of parts)
    Honda CB750C (runs)
    The Others (mostly rolling wounded)

    My collar may be a little frayed, and maybe I need a shoeshine. But nobody\'s got a mortgage on my soul. I own it. Free and clear. -Phil Lovecraft

  9. #8
    Senior Member joe1028's Avatar
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    if you have the engine that far down you should at least have the crank ck'd on centers to ck .
    a lot of single yamaha's used shims to set axial play...ck the parts book and shim per manual the crank should be as centered as possible in the cases to keep cyl wear even. a few things on assembly, install the bearings properly(heat/freeze),do not hammer them in especially on the inner race. when installing the crank do not hammer it in,heat/freeze/lube pull in..do not drive it in! when ready to put the cases together, heat/freeze and install a spacer between the crank fly wheels(i use feeler gauge stack),180 degrees from big end pin) so it stays true and then assemble it, you should not have any resistance if done correctly.. spin gearbox and crank and if needed unload main bearings while it still has the shim gauge in between flywheels. ck gearbox operation too before proceeding...one last thing, do not use cheap bearings with the wrong class fit either..... [email protected] vcycle

  10. #9
    Senior Member joe1028's Avatar
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    if you have the engine that far down you should at least have the crank ck'd on centers to ck .
    a lot of single yamaha's used shims to set axial play...ck the parts book and shim per manual the crank should be as centered as possible in the cases to keep cyl wear even. a few things on assembly, install the bearings properly(heat/freeze),do not hammer them in especially on the inner race. when installing the crank do not hammer it in,heat/freeze/lube pull in..do not drive it in! when ready to put the cases together, heat/freeze and install a spacer between the crank fly wheels(i use feeler gauge stack),180 degrees from big end pin) so it stays true and then assemble it, you should not have any resistance if done correctly.. spin gearbox and crank and if needed unload main bearings while it still has the shim gauge in between flywheels. ck gearbox operation too before proceeding...one last thing, do not use cheap bearings with the wrong class fit either..... [email protected] vcycle

  11. #10
    Senior Member Luckypabst's Avatar
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    Thanks for the pointers! I'm pretty sure the owner ordered the All Balls bearing & seal kit. And I'm waiting on a case separator and a crank puller so there won't be too much ham-fisting going on.

    Chris

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