CL100 - Electrical question
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CL100 - Electrical question

This is a discussion on CL100 - Electrical question within the Technical forums, part of the Caferacer.net Forums category; Hi all, picked up an absolutely beautiful 1971 Honda CL100 from a guy about 2 cities away here in the south Seattle, WA area. Says ...

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    Member MotoPhotog's Avatar
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    CL100 - Electrical question

    Hi all, picked up an absolutely beautiful 1971 Honda CL100 from a guy about 2 cities away here in the south Seattle, WA area. Says it doesnt run.

    Get it home, titled, plate issued, smell the fuel, doesnt smell much. Smells varnishy.... so we know it hasnt ran in at least a year. Says he tried to get it going with no luck.

    SO! I check the new looking 6v battery and my electrical tester says its pumping out a mighty 6.5v. So the battery is good. I was almost hoping it was bad. Easy 30 dollar fix. Go to take the tank off.

    Unplug wires halfway down the neck of the frame, leading to the front of the bike... (approximately 12" away from ignition switch) these wires are HOT. Good to go...

    Go to test wires coming OUT of ignition switch... NOTHING with ignition switch on/off.

    So i've ordered a new ignition switch. I hate to just replace random stuff, but hey battery has power and I'm not seeing anythign comign OUT of the ignition. So i'm going to just keep making my way down the system. NO headlights/dash green neutral light on. They're all off. Acting like a dead battery.

    Someone else have this issue with any of these little CL70/cl100/cb100/SL100's?

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    Administrator WERA689's Avatar
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    The battery may indeed have voltage. But it may also have no amperage. Those 6v systems were pretty weak, and any sulfation in that battery could kill sufficient amperage to power anything. If your local dealer can load test a 6v battery, this can be confirmed. You should also check the main fuse and other fuses.

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    Senior Member Dean's Avatar
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    The OP's thread is over two years old... so I hope it got her running . FYI tho.... These run off a magneto and will start on a dead battery.... and there is only one main fuse.

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    Member MotoPhotog's Avatar
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    Um Dean... I posted this about an hour ago bud. :-)
    WERA689 likes this.

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    I did check the main fuse. Main fuse is good. Guess i dont know how to check for ampreage. Sorry guys I'm not an electrical guru. Normally just give up and try and bring it to someone. i want to figure this out on my own.

    Someone else suggested a new regulator/rectifier. Any good in this?

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    Senior Member Dean's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by MotoPhotog View Post
    Um Dean... I posted this about an hour ago bud. :-)
    duh..... I guess I didn't squint enough !
    Last edited by Dean; 07-24-2013 at 10:04 AM.

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    Senior Member Dean's Avatar
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    Starting on page 90 of the service manual.... everything on your electrical system: http://www.dotheton.com/downloads/Ho...20Workshop.pdf

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    Quote Originally Posted by MotoPhotog View Post
    I did check the main fuse. Main fuse is good. Guess i dont know how to check for ampreage. Sorry guys I'm not an electrical guru. Normally just give up and try and bring it to someone. i want to figure this out on my own.

    Someone else suggested a new regulator/rectifier. Any good in this?
    Not yet.

    You have a spare headlight? Hook it up directly to the battery and measure voltage. If it drops quickly (like more than .5 volts in a few minutes) then your battery is on its way out.

    You should still get something even with a dying battery though, so my guess is the ignition switch as well. Multimeter will tell you for sure. Red (maybe red/white) wire to the ignition should read 6V all the time. Black wire coming out of the switch should get voltage when key is turned out.

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    Member MotoPhotog's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Dean View Post
    Starting on page 90 of the service manual.... everything on your electrical system: http://www.dotheton.com/downloads/Ho...20Workshop.pdf
    Thanks Dean!!

    Quote Originally Posted by Sonreir View Post
    Not yet.

    You have a spare headlight? Hook it up directly to the battery and measure voltage. If it drops quickly (like more than .5 volts in a few minutes) then your battery is on its way out.

    You should still get something even with a dying battery though, so my guess is the ignition switch as well. Multimeter will tell you for sure. Red (maybe red/white) wire to the ignition should read 6V all the time. Black wire coming out of the switch should get voltage when key is turned out.
    Great info here! Snreir, appreciate your reply. WHy would a 6v battery ready 6.5? Suprised it wasnt down to 4-5v being sitting without being ran. Love these little bikes. 1 cyl, 1 carb, cmon if I cant figure this out, I shouldnt be tinkering at all.

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    Member Sonreir's Avatar
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    It's typical for batteries to read up to a volt higher than their "actual" rating. Funnily enough, if a battery is reading it's rated voltage, that usually means it's dead (or will be soon). 12.6 - 12.8 is considered a healthy reading on a 12V battery. Less than 12.5 means the battery needs to be charged.

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