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This is a discussion on Electrical issues within the Technical forums, part of the Caferacer.net Forums category; Originally Posted by Geeto67 this is one of those times where a multi meter is a wise investment. With it you can test the battery's ...

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  1. #11
    Senior Member The Chief's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Geeto67 View Post
    this is one of those times where a multi meter is a wise investment. With it you can test the battery's standing voltage, the voltage with the bike running, and the amps the charging system is putting out. knowing these three things are essential to diagnostic. Of course that means buying a tool and learning how to use it.
    Most definitely! A multi-meter and a good understanding on how to use it to test voltage and continuity is a must, once you have eliminated components and are moving in to wiring.....
    He who knows nothing is closer to the truth than he whose mind is filled with falsehoods and errors.-Thomas Jefferson

  2. #12
    Junior Member NickXEdge's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by crazypj View Post
    Your buddy who works on cafe bikes probably asks a lot of questions on DTT?
    I answer most CB360 questions because I'm the damn expert on them (except for stuff I've already posted a few times, then one of the previous askers will usually answer).
    If the lights dim over a few weeks, there is nothing wrong with battery.
    What rpm are you running it? It should be close to red=line most of the time, they don't charge for shit until 3,000rpm (and don't charge at all until 2,000)
    The wiring is really simple, connect things of the same colour together, except for the indicator ground leads, they go to green not black
    You don't use the orange with white tracer or the blue with white tracer, they are for running lights that were never fitted on any CB360 I've ever seen.
    You could have any number of issues but you need to get a service manual or two before going any further
    Idle around 1200-1400 RPM. I replaced the battery and fuses the other day so that's not the issue. I'm gonna probably replace the regulator/rectifier soon and see if that helps and if I can find somebody to help me with replacing the entire wire harness, I have a spare sitting in my closet. I have a Clymers manual to look through and a friend of mine sent me an old 175 page shop manual for the bike too I can check with

  3. #13
    Senior Member crazypj's Avatar
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    Wasn't impressed with the Clymer manual and the genuine Honda is designed for people with working knowledge or training.
    You probably need to get the Haynes as well to cover all the bases.
    I would just re-wire it with a more modern regulator/rectifier unit (in fact, I almost always do)
    I still like the 1978~8*CB/CM400/450 reg/rectifier, works well and is probably the most reliable part of the 3 valve CB
    I've also used Suzuki and Kawasaki reg/rect on 360's though
    Personally I use 3 outputs as 3 outputs instead of connecting white and yellow together and using a 2 input wire aftermarket R/R
    I dabble in rocket science, when I\'m not picking my nose
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  5. #14
    Senior Member Geeto67's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by NickXEdge View Post
    Idle around 1200-1400 RPM. I replaced the battery and fuses the other day so that's not the issue. I'm gonna probably replace the regulator/rectifier soon and see if that helps and if I can find somebody to help me with replacing the entire wire harness, I have a spare sitting in my closet. I have a Clymers manual to look through and a friend of mine sent me an old 175 page shop manual for the bike too I can check with
    Again I am going to recommend a multimeter and a continuity tester. You are just throwing money and parts are a problem you aren't diagnosing. Replacing the entire electrical system is not the way to fix things. Measuring the input and output of the regulator and rectifier can tell you if they are functioning properly.

    Honestly it could be something as simple as a bad ground wire and an hour with a continuity tester going through the harness could figure that out for literally no money....well you will have to spend the money to buy the tool, but then you will have the tool for the next time it happens (and it will happen again).

    If you can't fathom how to use tools properly and diganose problems in a motorcycle and are unwilling to learn maybe you should find another hobby or a shop you can pay to fix things for you.
    Ever tried. Ever failed. No matter. Try Again. Fail again. Fail better.
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    A tool is just an opportunity with a handle
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  6. #15
    Junior Member NickXEdge's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Geeto67 View Post
    Again I am going to recommend a multimeter and a continuity tester. You are just throwing money and parts are a problem you aren't diagnosing. Replacing the entire electrical system is not the way to fix things. Measuring the input and output of the regulator and rectifier can tell you if they are functioning properly.

    Honestly it could be something as simple as a bad ground wire and an hour with a continuity tester going through the harness could figure that out for literally no money....well you will have to spend the money to buy the tool, but then you will have the tool for the next time it happens (and it will happen again).

    If you can't fathom how to use tools properly and diganose problems in a motorcycle and are unwilling to learn maybe you should find another hobby or a shop you can pay to fix things for you.
    Can certainly 'fathom' how to properly use tools. Sorry I did not respond to your earlier post with your input, doesn't mean I didn't take it into consideration, though. I'll shop around for one and see what comes of it. Chances are it probably is a bad ground because they owner of the bike before me had taken a lot of stuff off the bike and I have no clue what/where he connected the wires to on the bike, I'd assume not the correct spots or just capped them off or something of the sorts.

  7. #16
    Senior Member Geeto67's Avatar
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    I'm not trying (very hard) to be a dick here, but I have been down this path. My first street bike was a norton commando and I did the same thing you are planning to do - spent $100s of dollars just replacing anything I had a notion was a problem instead of taking the time and figuring out what was wrong. After I ruined my second NOS generator (and had completely rewired the bike using an NOS harness) my father bought me a multimeter and showed me a few basics. Saved me a lot of headache and walletache and I felt like a fool as the generators kept blowing because of a short that took 15 min to finally fix. Old hondas can seem intimidating in the wiring because that headlight bucket looks like it contains a bowl of spagetti, and they do weird things like use the headlight mounting bolts as grounds (not as weird as english positive ground though), but take your time, study a manual and wiring diagram and attack the problem starting from the bulb and going back and you'll get it. It could be something as simple as a bad headlight switch in the bar control and then you would have rewired your bike and still had the issue.

    My father and his friends always used to say: anybody can be a parts changer that's just bolting and unbolting shit, but a mechanic understands the system and diagnoses the problem. It is an intellectual problem, like a puzzle.
    Ever tried. Ever failed. No matter. Try Again. Fail again. Fail better.
    - Samuel Beckett
    A tool is just an opportunity with a handle
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  8. #17
    Junior Member NickXEdge's Avatar
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    I completely understand that, then! I'm definitely going to go pick a MM up today when I get off work though just to have regardless, it does seem like a very worthy investment to just have on hand. As for the wiring on this thing, like I said in one of my first posts that practically everything on the bars don't work at all and I don't know if that's because of the kid before me messing with them or if they're just shitty so if possible I would like to take all of that off anyways and just have the bare-minimum up there.

    I've got a few wiring diagrams from different manuals for it so I'll look at those and just go through the bike anyways. Thanks for the input!

  9. #18
    Senior Member The Chief's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by NickXEdge View Post
    I completely understand that, then! I'm definitely going to go pick a MM up today when I get off work though just to have regardless, it does seem like a very worthy investment to just have on hand. As for the wiring on this thing, like I said in one of my first posts that practically everything on the bars don't work at all and I don't know if that's because of the kid before me messing with them or if they're just shitty so if possible I would like to take all of that off anyways and just have the bare-minimum up there.

    I've got a few wiring diagrams from different manuals for it so I'll look at those and just go through the bike anyways. Thanks for the input!
    Start looking for shorts in the wires! I dont know anything about the wiring on the Hondas but if nothing works i think it would be easy to find the common denominator...
    He who knows nothing is closer to the truth than he whose mind is filled with falsehoods and errors.-Thomas Jefferson

  10. #19
    Senior Member The Chief's Avatar
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    Sorry if im asking a question thats already been asked, but do you have a wiring schematic for your bike? This will make it a lot easier for you. Crazypj already mentioned the colors of the wires on these bikes but a visual showing where every wire goes will be worth a lot also. The forum has a link to some wiring schematics, I couldnt ever get the link to work but maybe it will for you. Im sure crazypj has one he could share as well if he is feeling generous.....
    He who knows nothing is closer to the truth than he whose mind is filled with falsehoods and errors.-Thomas Jefferson

  11. #20
    Senior Member crazypj's Avatar
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    If nothing is/was working on bars, that's probably the problem.
    Original wiring was run inside the bars, I've seen all sorts of butchery because of laziness and stupidity when 're-wiring'
    If light switch isn't switching in the yellow wire from alternator, battery will always go flat running with lights on.
    Do you have stock 35w headlight or 'upgrade' to 60/55w halogen?
    I dabble in rocket science, when I\'m not picking my nose
    The other night I gave my girlfriend an orgasm, but, she spat it back at me

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