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Mikuni carbs on Honda CL350

This is a discussion on Mikuni carbs on Honda CL350 within the Technical forums, part of the Caferacer.net Forums category; here ya go you must have the bleed type needle jet for good response if it was me i would copy this entire setup including ...

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Thread: Mikuni carbs on Honda CL350

  1. #11
    Senior Member XB33BSA's Avatar
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    here ya go you must have the bleed type needle jet for good response
    if it was me i would copy this entire setup
    including the 2.5 cutaway slide
    your welcome aLL I DID WEAS A GOOGLE SEARCH
    https://www.caferacer.net/forum/tech...g-results.html
    I EVEN COPPIED THE TEXT FOR YOU OUT OF THIS LINK
    Well it's been a long road, but well worth it. This old girl is finally running great after 4 weeks of testing, tuning, and waiting to receive jets a few times over. I've got some jetting numbers to share to feed the hungry baby birds out there who seek to run a bleed type needle jet. Keep in mind, these numbers work for MY bike in MY conditions. Perhaps it will get you in the ballpark and save you some cash.

    Bike:
    1972 Honda CB350 twin
    Generic 12" shorty mufflers, freshly repacked,[u] with additional baffle inserted before muffler</u> for a bit of backpressure and less raspy pop
    NEW Mikuni VM30's and K&N pod filters
    Fresh points at proper gap, condenser, plugs, valves checked, correct timing, clean and smooth timing advancer, good compression
    87 octane fuel w/10% ethanol

    Conditions:
    Typical hot summer, sea level.

    Jetting:
    Main Jet:Large Hex 200
    Emulsion tube/Needle jet: BLEED TYPE 176 series P-8
    Slide: 2.5
    Pilot jet:30
    Needle: 5F3, lowest (richest) clip setting
    Air Jet: 0.5
    Air Screw: 2.0 turns out

    So far I've got a few hours of spirited riding on this combo and it feels great from idle to redline at all throttle positions. Plug has a slight cardboard color so far and I'll keep an eye on it. The bike can idle for an extended period and still have a clean off-idle response. I'll eventually try an even richer needle to get the clip settings closer to the middle, but let's enjoy it for now. Hope this helps.






  2. #12
    Senior Member TrialsRider's Avatar
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    ... if it was ignition timing related and everything seems perfect I'd retard the ignition to make it work better at low speed, advance it for wot.
    But thats usually just a performance rule of thumb thing, not really a trouble-shoot :|

    Just throwing it out there, possibly you already tried all these things.

  3. #13
    Senior Member TrialsRider's Avatar
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    show him your video

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  5. #14
    Senior Member XB33BSA's Avatar
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    ONE VARIABLE IS THE CAM INVOLVED ALTHOUGH IT WONT MAKE MUCH DIFFERENCE IN THE JETTING
    1971 or so honda ditched the higher revving cam for a slightly milder grind to make the bikes more easy to lug down like a harley
    for sure 1970 or earlier is what is called the fat cam which is only fatter in the way the casting has a thicker center section
    the cam lobes are actually generated from a significantly smaller dia base circle and hence the need for matching rocker arms with more reach
    i am using the fat cam grind and love it,it has lots of torque from 4000-on up but i turned 2.2 lbs of iron of the crankshaft

  6. #15
    Junior Member Geezergen's Avatar
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    Well the float arms are level in both carbs. That is the way they came. I don't have any measurements to check them with, but I suspect they are right.

  7. #16
    Senior Member Teazer's Avatar
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    Agree that BLEED type needle jets are better on a 4 stroke for two reasons. First is that they flow less fuel than the same sized primary type and as revs rise, that difference gets larger, so that leans things out and secondly a BLEED type does a better job of atomizing fuel droplets so they burn better.

  8. #17
    Senior Member XB33BSA's Avatar
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    i use a clear hose attached to the float bowel drain to observe the actual level
    in fact i ride with them on the carbs
    i route the hose up the side of the carb u bend it straight down so water cant get in
    makes for a quick diafgnosis check if out riding and having fueling issues
    on the vm mikuni as well as the keihins you want the level to be at least 6mm below gasket
    if you have a pamco in there yank it off and put the points back in you have to or you could go mad chasing a carb problem that is really an ignition issue
    the pamco is good unit but they fry easy from simple little wiring snafus

  9. #18
    Senior Member TrialsRider's Avatar
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    ... quick and easy test, elevate your front wheel.

    needle and seat getting stuck closed is another possibility to watch for.
    stuck open would normally have it puking fuel out of the overflow
    Last edited by TrialsRider; 10-03-2018 at 06:48 PM.

  10. #19
    Junior Member Geezergen's Avatar
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    Well I appreciate all the help. I did copy all the jetting info and will start over from there and yes it is a PAMCO ign which I will remove and put the original points ign back in.

  11. #20
    Senior Member TrialsRider's Avatar
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    Pamco says: "You must use 5 ohm resistor type spark plug caps or resistor type plugs (not both)" ... whats the resistance between your coil and plug now?

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