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Tank tunnel widening technique

This is a discussion on Tank tunnel widening technique within the Technical forums, part of the Caferacer.net Forums category; why on earth would you trade that great looking xbr500 tank for a useless cb200 tank? Old honda tanks are thicker metal than later tanks. ...

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Thread: Tank tunnel widening technique

  1. #11
    Senior Member Geeto67's Avatar
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    why on earth would you trade that great looking xbr500 tank for a useless cb200 tank?

    Old honda tanks are thicker metal than later tanks. They are also crimped seams. For the most part working slowly and tapping more than tapping harder is the way to go, the last thing you want is the metal to pull because you are hitting it and then the seam at the bottom splits.

    But back to this partially uselsess and ugly mod for a second - have you ever seen a GB500?

    Name:  1990-honda-gb500-tt-rr-1024x735.jpg
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    This uses almost the same design tank as what you have and it is proof that you can have a pretty, functional, and retro design using something as "modern" as your tank.
    Andyshep likes this.
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  2. #12
    Junior Member mattsway's Avatar
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    Thanks for the tips on striking. Yes, beauty is in eye of the beholder. The boomerang comstars are going as well. If I can't get the CB200 tank to fit, I've got a CB350 which would need less work.

  3. #13
    Junior Member mattsway's Avatar
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    Cb350 tank, but not as attractive to my eye...
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  5. #14
    Senior Member seanbarney41's Avatar
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    Can I get those boomies?

  6. #15
    Junior Member mattsway's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by seanbarney41 View Post
    Can I get those boomies?
    I'm UK based?

  7. #16
    Junior Member mattsway's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by irk_miller View Post
    If you're referring to the the black circled marks in the pic, all you need is the round side of a ball peen hammer. I assume by plastic mallet you mean a teardrop. A teardrop won't work as well here. I work mostly with a repoussé and a ball peen for work like that.
    Your advice worked well, thank you. 30mins of fast, short strikes produced the results in the pic, along with a resolve never to engage in an arm wrestle with anyone who shapes metal this way on a regular basis!
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  8. #17
    Junior Member mattsway's Avatar
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    I went to the local shop where the petcock bung was TIG welded into it's new position. The guy says the tank is old and thin and has to switch to MIG to build up a weld over the two original petcock holes. On testing, the weld is leaking at it's base.
    My question is whether a tank sealant like POR15 will sort this out, or has the metal on this this tank become too porous and so beyond help? Thanks.
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    Last edited by mattsway; 02-02-2019 at 06:30 AM.

  9. #18
    Senior Member CaTacL1sm's Avatar
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    POR15 should solve the issue.

    just make sure you follow the directions to the letter
    Quote Originally Posted by alwhite00 View Post
    Fuck all of you guys. Get into your little circle jerk and have fun. Thought this may be a pretty cool message board but damn, you guys are assholes.

  10. #19
    jcw
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    Senior Member jcw's Avatar
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    Find a competent welder. I can build plenty of metal up with tig. In fact, it's the preferred method for thin stuff.
    ...My bike is very Pouncy...
    f*ck u all

  11. #20
    Senior Member irk_miller's Avatar
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    MIG is fine if you learn how to work with it. I have no TIG, so I do all of my welding with MIG and O/A. In sheet metal, burn out comes from penetration. In welding thinner gauge sheet metal, you want to lower your feed speed and lengthen your stick-out. Longer stick-out = less penetration. Lower feed speed = less amperage. The other thing is voltage. Lower volts = narrower puddle. Higher volts = wider puddle.

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