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Getting my CB360T going right

This is a discussion on Getting my CB360T going right within the Technical forums, part of the Caferacer.net Forums category; This is the one where he bought an already "built" cafe project thingy, it has one of those Farfromstok electrical systems installed by the previous ...

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Thread: Getting my CB360T going right

  1. #21
    Senior Member TrialsRider's Avatar
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    This is the one where he bought an already "built" cafe project thingy, it has one of those Farfromstok electrical systems installed by the previous owner.

  2. #22
    Senior Member Geeto67's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by TrialsRider View Post
    This is the one where he bought an already "built" cafe project thingy, it has one of those Farfromstok electrical systems installed by the previous owner.

    It still has a spark plugs, caps, wires and coils, right? Start there and work back. Test the cap for resistance (under 10K Ohms), test the wires for resistance (between 10K and 13K ohms), test the coils when hot, and then check timing, ignition trigger, etc... Also check for par blown fuses. Being not stock increases it's chances of being the issue. Even if he has a dyna S in there, the instructions tell you how to troubleshoot one.

    I had this same problem with my BMW recently - ran fine cold, would start to warm up and the thing would die. turns out the hall effects "bean can" dist was going bad. thought it was carb related (did discover that my carbs were running dry on the highway because of a fuel filter as well), went through the carbs before a friend suggested I look at the "bean can". Guess what it was.
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  3. #23
    Senior Member crazypj's Avatar
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    360 WILL NOT WORK WITH STOCK JETTING AND K&N FILTERS. I've been modifying carbs for them for at least 10 years. Unless shop has a mechanic who REALLY understands Honda 3 jet carbs your on a 'hiding to nothing' At least it has K&N RC1820's on it which I know work well. The electrical system is pretty basic, anyone who has issues with it doesn't understand the first thing about electrical systems. The original regulator is pretty good but rectifiers are way more efficient nowadays so it will charge even at tickover if it's wired right with a modern R/R. When working properly it's a genuine 105mph bike, (but not if you put it in top gear at 40mph)

    Engine breather comers off top of cam box, if it can't breath it pushes oil through clutch pushrod seal first, then various other places
    Just because a shop works on 'old' bikes it really doesn't mesan they know what they are doing
    Mikuni's are pretty much a waste of money unless you like pulling carburetors apart. What worked on a CB350 in 1973 doesn't work on a CB360 in 2000's. Actually, what worked in 2010 doesn't work as well now due to changes in fuel composition. With K&N filters, exhaust length and inside diameter becomes crucial. You can make a 2" pipe work but jetting is around 125 on secondaries. Oh, if shop used aftermarket pilot jets, dump them and get genuine Kei-Hin 35 with 0.80mm cross drillings (or get a 0.35mm drill to check size and a 0.80mm drill to enlarge holes) Float level needs to be set at 21mm, 19mm will make it run rich even though that's stock spec. If you know anyone with small lathe it's possible to remove 0.50mm from underside of needle seat then fit a washer above to maintain correct clearances (drops needle which is what various people here have said) I couldn't do the mod until I spent too much on various equipment but I'll probably do all 'new' modifications like that
    Last edited by crazypj; 05-15-2019 at 09:57 PM.
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  5. #24
    Senior Member 8ball's Avatar
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    I was hoping PJ would chime in. That’s the guy who probably has the most experience getting those 350/360 bikes working right.
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    Quote Originally Posted by roccitycafe View Post
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  6. #25
    Senior Member Cyorg's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by crazypj View Post

    Just because a shop works on 'old' bikes it really doesn't mesan they know what they are doing
    Mikuni's are pretty much a waste of money unless you like pulling carburetors apart. What worked on a CB350 in 1973 doesn't work on a CB360 in 2000's. Actually, what worked in 2010 doesn't work as well now due to changes in fuel composition. With K&N filters, exhaust length and inside diameter becomes crucial. You can make a 2" pipe work but jetting is around 125 on secondaries. Oh, if shop used aftermarket pilot jets, dump them and get genuine Kei-Hin 35 with 0.80mm cross drillings (or get a 0.35mm drill to check size and a 0.80mm drill to enlarge holes) Float level needs to be set at 21mm, 19mm will make it run rich even though that's stock spec. If you know anyone with small lathe it's possible to remove 0.50mm from underside of needle seat then fit a washer above to maintain correct clearances (drops needle which is what various people here have said) I couldn't do the mod until I spent too much on various equipment but I'll probably do all 'new' modifications like that
    Have you done much in the way of drilling out pilot jets and if so, what sort of setup do you use? I have done it in the past but it’s a PITA . I recently bought some Chinese jets thinking I could use them to get me into the ballpark and then replace them with OEM, but I was subsequently told they can be pretty random as far as actual flow goes.
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  7. #26
    Senior Member crazypj's Avatar
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    Biggest mistake is to use larger pilot jets, they don't need more han 38 and 35 from a 350 are sometimes throttle response from low RPM. If you think about it, how much restriction is there with OEM filters at idle to 1500rpm? (answer is, bugger all, it's designed for 11,000) A few people have had a good result going down to a 65 primary main but it's a PITA as you have to get a new one then have it shortened. I kn ow for a fact 70 primary is too big (5 gas dyno's are great for carb setting) ALL the BS you see online is for 2 jet AMAL style carbs (as built by Mikuniin China nowadays)
    The only thing you need to change is secondary main jet. and that is totally dependent on exhaust system, too short, go up at least 25% or more.(125+) Correct length, around 110~115 using stock head-pipes and E10 or 'straight' I used to send carbs back with 110 secondaries but last few years they all get 115. Drilling out stock jets is cheapest and easiest as they may need changing so no point buying a size that may not be right. I've only heard of one person using CB160 carb kits for the needles, haven't tried it but could work out? I've written about this enough times to get blisters). The problem is the carb design. To get decent fuel mileage andf pass EPA spec at the time, Honda had a carb designed to add fuel more efficiently as rpm went up. If you check, the slide height on majority of 70's Honda's with CV carbs (and the 68 CB350) is almost half way up the bore, butterfly controls airflow NOT THE FUCKING SLIDE (pissed off with people saying slide sticking causes high idle -it CAN'T) Slide doesn't start to lift until ~4K. As it lifts, it goes lean then a load more fuel is suddenly added, much more than would be the case if stock air-box was still installed. If it were possible, dropping needle a clip or two would improve things. As needles are not adjustable, I invented some other modifications. No, I won't tell, it's pretty much my only income for last few years (since lay off, spine surgery, lawers, lies from former employer, etc) Yes, the avatar is the hardware in my baqck
    Last edited by crazypj; Today at 01:58 AM.
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