Hey guys. I picked up an 81 KZ750E that my buddy and I are cleaning. It is bone stock down to the tires. OE.. Rest in Peace was kind enough to store sans gas and it is perfect with 8500 miles. The carbs are off and the airbox will be a bitch to get on. If someone made a strong argument to use pods and included jet sizes I sure would appreciate the input. Thanks much. "Put the fucking airbox on, asshole and here's how" responses are appreciated as well. Stock pipes. New England...slightly above sea level. Thanks. Oh...and where do I cut the back to weld the hoop for the brown seat? Thanks.
Personally; I'd build a plenum that leads to one big mf oiled air filter and stick that in a box of my own construction, maybe even incorporate that box into the seat or lol side number plates or rear fender or subframe or low mounted battery box. Fill up that stupid big open triangle shite.
Thanks but that is more effort than I am up for. Picked the bike up for cheap and my buddy and I are fixing up for him to ride. We have $500 and 89 beers invested so far. Not out to increase power per se, just want it to run properly.
Hey guys. I picked up an 81 KZ750E that my buddy and I are cleaning. It is bone stock down to the tires. OE.. Rest in Peace was kind enough to store sans gas and it is perfect with 8500 miles. The carbs are off and the airbox will be a bitch to get on. If someone made a strong argument to use pods and included jet sizes I sure would appreciate the input. Thanks much. "Put the fucking airbox on, asshole and here's how" responses are appreciated as well. Stock pipes. New England...slightly above sea level. Thanks. Oh...and where do I cut the back to weld the hoop for the brown seat? Thanks.
Why do you say that the airbox is a bitch to get on? You can pull the carbson a KZ in 5 minutes and it takes about 10 to put them back on once you get good at it. Put the airbox back on, it doesn't need to be removed to R&R the carbs. Shove the boots most of the way into the box when you are removing the carbs. Put the carbs on and clamp them down to the engine, then push the boots from the inside of the airbox while pulling on the outside with the other hand. Mine is an 81 750H2 (LTD) but pretty much the same setup
Great advice Oldjeep. I will take your advice and push back the boots. It’s funny how 80% of the KZs I see have pods, but when I ask about jetting on a KZ facebook page not a sngle person has a clue.
Everyone is looking for some magic formula when it comes to jetting. That ain't how it works. It takes a lot of trial and testing, and the variables are never the same. And when you remove the stabilizing factor of an air box, all those variables come into play.
Drain the forks into a clear glass container, hold it up to sunlight, see how bad it is that way.
You don't need a lot of air fork pressure ~4psi and don't go heavy weight on the oil thinking that will improve anything, go 5 or 10 at most imho.
Ride safe.
Should read: thee bike runs like crap now because it is fitted with CV carburetors that were designed to operate on the least amount of fuel possible, owner went cheap and tried to jam twice as much air through it then the stock CV carburetors were ever designed to accommodate, so now that it is fitted with over-sized fuel jets it features huge flat spots in the power curve, won't return to idle, eats fuel like crazy, stumbles on take-off and basically performs like a noisy polluting wet turd.
But owner loves the look.
Pods only if you get new carbs. the CV's will idle fine with pods, but as soon as you twist that throttle it will bog down like an Ethiopian pushing an 800 pound man in a wheel barrow.
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