KZ750E Pods or fuck that?
Close

KZ750E Pods or fuck that?

This is a discussion on KZ750E Pods or fuck that? within the Technical forums, part of the Caferacer.net Forums category; Hey guys. I picked up an 81 KZ750E that my buddy and I are cleaning. It is bone stock down to the tires. OE.. Rest ...

Page 1 of 2 12 LastLast
Results 1 to 10 of 14
Like Tree1Likes

Thread: KZ750E Pods or fuck that?

  1. #1
    Junior Member actionitem's Avatar
    Join Date
    Oct 2018
    Posts
    10

    KZ750E Pods or fuck that?

    Name:  IMG_1946.JPG
Views: 49
Size:  61.6 KB

    Hey guys. I picked up an 81 KZ750E that my buddy and I are cleaning. It is bone stock down to the tires. OE.. Rest in Peace was kind enough to store sans gas and it is perfect with 8500 miles. The carbs are off and the airbox will be a bitch to get on. If someone made a strong argument to use pods and included jet sizes I sure would appreciate the input. Thanks much. "Put the fucking airbox on, asshole and here's how" responses are appreciated as well. Stock pipes. New England...slightly above sea level. Thanks. Oh...and where do I cut the back to weld the hoop for the brown seat? Thanks.

  2. #2
    Senior Member TrialsRider's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2011
    Location
    Ontario, Canada
    Posts
    5,126
    CV carburetors? You already know the answer to that bad idea, they barely work well when everything is perfect.

  3. #3
    Senior Member Stephen J's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2015
    Location
    Ontario Canada
    Posts
    1,144
    I'd go with - Or fuck that
    If you can't pick it back up, don't ride it.

  4. Remove Advertisements
    CafeRacer.net
    Advertisements
     

  5. #4
    Senior Member TrialsRider's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2011
    Location
    Ontario, Canada
    Posts
    5,126
    Personally; I'd build a plenum that leads to one big mf oiled air filter and stick that in a box of my own construction, maybe even incorporate that box into the seat or lol side number plates or rear fender or subframe or low mounted battery box. Fill up that stupid big open triangle shite.

  6. #5
    Member Oldjeep's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 2019
    Posts
    65
    Quote Originally Posted by actionitem View Post
    Name:  IMG_1946.JPG
Views: 49
Size:  61.6 KB

    Hey guys. I picked up an 81 KZ750E that my buddy and I are cleaning. It is bone stock down to the tires. OE.. Rest in Peace was kind enough to store sans gas and it is perfect with 8500 miles. The carbs are off and the airbox will be a bitch to get on. If someone made a strong argument to use pods and included jet sizes I sure would appreciate the input. Thanks much. "Put the fucking airbox on, asshole and here's how" responses are appreciated as well. Stock pipes. New England...slightly above sea level. Thanks. Oh...and where do I cut the back to weld the hoop for the brown seat? Thanks.
    Why do you say that the airbox is a bitch to get on? You can pull the carbson a KZ in 5 minutes and it takes about 10 to put them back on once you get good at it. Put the airbox back on, it doesn't need to be removed to R&R the carbs. Shove the boots most of the way into the box when you are removing the carbs. Put the carbs on and clamp them down to the engine, then push the boots from the inside of the airbox while pulling on the outside with the other hand. Mine is an 81 750H2 (LTD) but pretty much the same setup
    Name:  IMAG1174.jpg
Views: 46
Size:  175.2 KB
    Last edited by Oldjeep; 06-21-2019 at 08:43 AM.

  7. #6
    Junior Member actionitem's Avatar
    Join Date
    Oct 2018
    Posts
    10
    Great advice Oldjeep. I will take your advice and push back the boots. It’s funny how 80% of the KZs I see have pods, but when I ask about jetting on a KZ facebook page not a sngle person has a clue.

  8. #7
    Junior Member actionitem's Avatar
    Join Date
    Oct 2018
    Posts
    10
    Quote Originally Posted by TrialsRider View Post
    Personally; I'd build a plenum that leads to one big mf oiled air filter and stick that in a box of my own construction, maybe even incorporate that box into the seat or lol side number plates or rear fender or subframe or low mounted battery box. Fill up that stupid big open triangle shite.
    Thanks but that is more effort than I am up for. Picked the bike up for cheap and my buddy and I are fixing up for him to ride. We have $500 and 89 beers invested so far. Not out to increase power per se, just want it to run properly.
    TrialsRider likes this.

  9. #8
    Senior Member TrialsRider's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2011
    Location
    Ontario, Canada
    Posts
    5,126
    Quote Originally Posted by actionitem View Post
    Thanks but that is more effort than I am up for. Picked the bike up for cheap and my buddy and I are fixing up for him to ride. We have $500 and 89 beers invested so far. Not out to increase power per se, just want it to run properly.
    Then absolutely put it together with as many original parts as possible & replace only the consumable stuff like filters and bushings and brake parts.
    would recommend you price both OEM paper filters and foam or felt oiled aftermarket ones, if it needs a chain there is nothing wrong with a higher maintenance one at half the cost.
    I would dismantle and clean the front forks, then you will know what it's like in there even if you do reassemble with all the original but clean parts.
    Rear swingarm? if you haul on the rear wheel from one side to the other when it's on the centre stand does the chain tension change at all? <- edit oh, looks like you might have rebuilt it already.
    Last edited by TrialsRider; 06-21-2019 at 02:40 PM.

  10. #9
    Junior Member actionitem's Avatar
    Join Date
    Oct 2018
    Posts
    10
    Quote Originally Posted by TrialsRider View Post
    Then absolutely put it together with as many original parts as possible & replace only the consumable stuff like filters and bushings and brake parts.
    would recommend you price both OEM paper filters and foam or felt oiled aftermarket ones, if it needs a chain there is nothing wrong with a higher maintenance one at half the cost.
    I would dismantle and clean the front forks, then you will know what it's like in there even if you do reassemble with all the original but clean parts.
    Rear swingarm? if you haul on the rear wheel from one side to the other when it's on the centre stand does the chain tension change at all? <- edit oh, looks like you might have rebuilt it already.
    The swingarm is solid as a rock. Fork seals seem to be okay but will be filling with air and checking for leaks. I hope to get by with a drain and fill of fork oil. If fork oil looks as bad as the brake fluid did, I may dismantle anyway. I'm lazy on the project because I won't be riding but safety is key as I would hate to lose a drinking buddy. Thanks for the advice.

  11. #10
    Senior Member TrialsRider's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2011
    Location
    Ontario, Canada
    Posts
    5,126
    Drain the forks into a clear glass container, hold it up to sunlight, see how bad it is that way.
    You don't need a lot of air fork pressure ~4psi and don't go heavy weight on the oil thinking that will improve anything, go 5 or 10 at most imho.
    Ride safe.

Page 1 of 2 12 LastLast

Sponsored Links

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •