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Amateur Manx 40M preparation

This is a discussion on Amateur Manx 40M preparation within the Vintage Motorcycle Racing forums, part of the Caferacer.net Forums category; For the sake of production and cost efficiency Burlen make some parts differently eg floats form plastic and not copper soldered up. This makes the ...

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Thread: Amateur Manx 40M preparation

  1. #111
    Senior Member jalsteve's Avatar
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    For the sake of production and cost efficiency Burlen make some parts differently eg floats form plastic and not copper soldered up. This makes the newer floats more buoyant add viton tipped float valves and you get better seat to valve sealing and reduced flooding but you can get stiction in valve or the valve not opening quick enough or just not enough! I run brit bikes wet at low RPM and racing brits even wetter.

    You also need to look at the size of the bore of the float valve there come in different sizes (the hole against which the float valve seats).

    Float chamber - I buy used and rebuild, I never new.
    Lite the blue touch paper and stand well back!

  2. #112
    Senior Member Mike 40M's Avatar
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    Just returned from my first race on the Norton. As the engine is new, I only rode it parade class, in order to give it a bit of break in. Six times a quarter of an hour in the saddle. I found the most difficult thing was to navigate through the pits to get out on the track. I had to keep it at least at 4000 rpm and play with the clutch to be able to go slow. When we got green flag and went out on the track it felt much better. Though I'm quite familiar with that track (raced the Honda there a couple of times) it took some time sorting out which gears and gear changing points. Started very slow to get a feeling of handling. Quickly found that it behaved as a featherbed Norton should. No problems there. Then found that I shall never go under 5000 rpm, which meant that I had to go a bit faster in the bends. Though it prefers anything over 6000 rpm to be happy. Any problems? Yes the gear lever doesn't suit me at all. Downshifting no problems, but I had trouble upshifting. I hope making a new lever will sort that out. Otherwise scrap the TTI gearbox and find something better. Another small problem was that on the last time on the track, after a couple of laps with good feeling, the screw holding the clutch lever disappeared. Called it a day, went into the pits. Where the guy who raced it in the sixties said: What! Going out just for a nonworking clutch lever. You should have kept on without it.
    Funny thing, most of my bikes are it or she, but the Manx is definitely a he. With firm opinions on how to be ridden. Fast.
    In -68, I looked at this machine and wondered how it would feel to ride a real racer. Now I know, FUN.
    Still a lot to learn but very happy.
    CaTacL1sm likes this.

  3. #113
    Senior Member Mike 40M's Avatar
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    Another weekend on the racetrack. The Norton started easily as usual ( after I found I had forgotten to remove the plug in the intake ). The new gear lever Mk IIIB, worked well. They had made some changes to the course since last time I raced there, so it took a couple of laps to find the new lines. Luckily the Manx is very forgiving and sorted out my wrong racelines without complaining. In the end of the first practice I was really enjoying riding it. Still I played safe and braked way to early, not knowing how good the brakes are. Back in the pits noticed a wet point in the rear left part of the tank. A maybe fifty year old plastic repair had started to leak. Removed it and found a 2"+ crack in the weld. Instead of making a quick fix, I called it a day and took out the Honda instead. More of that in my Honda thread. Will talk to my favourite alloy welder.
    Still some questions needs answers. What oil temperature I shall try to get? Seems 3 litres is too much oil as temperature is only 55 degrees C, when back in the pits. What grease to use in the cluch roller bearing and how much? How long to warm up the engine?

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