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Discussion Starter #21
As far as the disc goes. Honda used the same bolt pattern on lots of stuff, so the disc from one of the years Shadow 750 used a single disc of the same diameter and bolt pattern, but a different look. I used one on my FT500 with a 17" wheel. I got it on e-bay for less than $25. It was in great shape as it hadn't been used hard.
VT1100 and VF750C discs have the same part number. There's some very decent ones on US ebay for reasonable money, but by the time you include postage, VAT, and the Royal Mail handling charge, not so cheap.
I'll have to keep looking for now.
 

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Discussion Starter #22
Spent a good few hours in the shed recently, forks have had new seals, and oil, new plugs, air fillter, valve clearences adjusted. A number of o-rings/gaskets/cables replaced.
Hagon shock fitted, and a lot of the wiring sorted.
 

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As usual... nice work and looks good..... and congrats on having such a well organized shop.
May I ask where you ordered the brake lines from? Any chance you could tell me approximately how long that rear brake line is? I need one for a project and that one looks like it would be really close.
 

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Discussion Starter #25
As usual... nice work and looks good..... and congrats on having such a well organized shop.
May I ask where you ordered the brake lines from? Any chance you could tell me approximately how long that rear brake line is? I need one for a project and that one looks like it would be really close.
Cheers..... The brake line is 870mm (including banjos). I've been buying all my brake hoses from a company called Wezmoto through ebay for a good few years now.
Really good quality, come with stainless banjos, bolts, and copper washers. This set cost just under £40 inc p&p.
 

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Discussion Starter #26
Made a huge mistake this morning, and added up the cost so far.
I'm in for a monumental bollocking from the missus if she ever finds out.
Anyway a few jobs have been ticked off over the last few weeks. Callipers sorted, exhaust fitted, radiator assembled, and finally got round to torquing the swinging arm pivots (Had to borrow some tools for that one).
 

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Bollock... meh.... now bullock... thats something to be concerned about.... although I suppose with a really lengthly monumental bollocking you could end up with the same result. They would eventually just drop off on their own.
 

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That comes as no surprise at all. How on earth do you manage to get every part looking like new? Many parts come back from plating that still don't look that good even if they are cleaned and dressed and repaired etc first. Do you just replace all teh hardware or is there a trick I didn't learn at school?
 

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Discussion Starter #29
That comes as no surprise at all. How on earth do you manage to get every part looking like new? Many parts come back from plating that still don't look that good even if they are cleaned and dressed and repaired etc first. Do you just replace all teh hardware or is there a trick I didn't learn at school?
I've replaced the vast majority of fixings with new stainless ones. The chrome silencer was badly pitted, alhough it did clean up okay wouldn't have been long before it looked bad. so it got replaced with a new stainless system.
Some parts I've mirror polished, and a lot have been powder coated, the rest have cleaned the best I can.
The body work is in quite good nick. A friend is currently touching up a few scuffs in the seat cowl, and front mudguard. The tank, and side panels should polish up okay once I've gone over them with some 3000 grit wet&dry.
 

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Discussion Starter #31
Just shy of 3 grand, but I've still got to buy a front disc, brake pads, and tyres.:rolleyes:
 

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Discussion Starter #33
Having chosen to completly ignore the good advice given by unclerob concerning the new front disc, I fitted a new EBC Prolite this morning.
 

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Discussion Starter #36
This little project's turned into a bit of a mission. I had it running well before being stripped down, but since then it has been popping on over run, then started running rough at 4000 rpm, so spent many hours chasing a non existant air leak, and split diaphragms amongst other things. When started up last week was only running on one cylinder. Checked valve clearence (again), coils, pulse generator, and fuel height which were all good. The carbs had already been off 3 or 4 times, and cleaned with carb cleaner, and compressed air. So as a last resort had them ultrasonically cleaned. Put them back together this morning. What a difference running as it should.
 

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This little project's turned into a bit of a mission. I had it running well before being stripped down, but since then it has been popping on over run, then started running rough at 4000 rpm, so spent many hours chasing a non existant air leak, and split diaphragms amongst other things. When started up last week was only running on one cylinder. Checked valve clearence (again), coils, pulse generator, and fuel height which were all good. The carbs had already been off 3 or 4 times, and cleaned with carb cleaner, and compressed air. So as a last resort had them ultrasonically cleaned. Put them back together this morning. What a difference running as it should.
What do you use in the ultrasonic cleaner?

I've been using simple green, with results that aren't that great, but then my cleaner doesn't seem to be firing on all cylinders either.
It's no wonder these carbs need a ultrasound cleaning with the size of some passageways. This jet arrived in a selection that I ordered.... it was supposed to be a 32.5. I thought about drilling it, but didn't have the correct size bit and its a guessing game anyway unless you have a good jet to use as a referance. Drilling mains is one thing, but primary jets are another.

Jet 32.5 copy.jpg Jet drill.jpg
 

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Discussion Starter #38

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one of my old bosses told me about using an oil can to clean carb passages once, and i've used it a couple of times to amazing effect. just an old school pump can and some 20/50. the oil viscosity moves stuff air wont.
 
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