Nice bike I would have bought it blind - no question.
That ain't no café racer, someone spent a lot of money on that bike back in the 60's, those wheels and fork would have cost 6 months salary in 63. That's a race bike.
Front forks are manx, so are the yolks c 1957 to 62.
The wheels are also Manx, in magnesium, front is the later type 2ls from 57 to 61. The date of the rear can be determined but you need to look inside specifically the cast webs. The magnesium is Electron and is quite stable, however they should be stripped and the hubs checked for cracks, stove enamelled after and rebuilt if they are OK. If you are precious you can remove the spokes (lots of penetrating oil 1st), have them plated and use again. Manx hubs were not chromated just painted.
Swing arm is also Manx.
The mag isn't a 2MTT. Better photo please and ill be able to ID it, has a PAL look about it.
Combined oil / petrol tank isn't a good idea though lovely warm oil heating the fuel = NO.
The 650ss is a great motor when prepared well. Weak points are rods (fit steel or Titanium if you are going to use in anger). The original pistons can nip up use forged items. The original cam (X1 or later X2 which is nitrided and the same cam used in the 750 commandos) with flat foot followers is nice and torquey. Or fit a PW3 my favourite. You can fit bigger valves and bore the seats but I wouldn't, standard valves with bored seats and skinny valve contact (4 angles). Mains are strong, pay close attention to the crank, rebuild with bolt kit from Steve Maney in the Uk. Re-balance is a must.
What carbs are they? The long inlet tracks were a normal mod in period helping hi RPM breathing.
Engine breathers look like SU items.
Nice thing, as I said I would have bought it.
That ain't no café racer, someone spent a lot of money on that bike back in the 60's, those wheels and fork would have cost 6 months salary in 63. That's a race bike.
Front forks are manx, so are the yolks c 1957 to 62.
The wheels are also Manx, in magnesium, front is the later type 2ls from 57 to 61. The date of the rear can be determined but you need to look inside specifically the cast webs. The magnesium is Electron and is quite stable, however they should be stripped and the hubs checked for cracks, stove enamelled after and rebuilt if they are OK. If you are precious you can remove the spokes (lots of penetrating oil 1st), have them plated and use again. Manx hubs were not chromated just painted.
Swing arm is also Manx.
The mag isn't a 2MTT. Better photo please and ill be able to ID it, has a PAL look about it.
Combined oil / petrol tank isn't a good idea though lovely warm oil heating the fuel = NO.
The 650ss is a great motor when prepared well. Weak points are rods (fit steel or Titanium if you are going to use in anger). The original pistons can nip up use forged items. The original cam (X1 or later X2 which is nitrided and the same cam used in the 750 commandos) with flat foot followers is nice and torquey. Or fit a PW3 my favourite. You can fit bigger valves and bore the seats but I wouldn't, standard valves with bored seats and skinny valve contact (4 angles). Mains are strong, pay close attention to the crank, rebuild with bolt kit from Steve Maney in the Uk. Re-balance is a must.
What carbs are they? The long inlet tracks were a normal mod in period helping hi RPM breathing.
Engine breathers look like SU items.
Nice thing, as I said I would have bought it.
