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1975 Honda CB125S

9054 Views 70 Replies 10 Participants Last post by  knappyfeet
I purchased this old 125 on offer up for $500. It needs a lot of stuff but it runs, rides great, and best of all it has a title and is currently registered… kind of a rarity for a $500 project on offer up or craigslist. My wife has been wanting to learn to ride on the street for some time .....she knows how to ride dirt bikes and stuff from years of desert trips...... but I figured it would be best to start off on something as small as I could find. As you can see it needs a few things and from just a preliminary inspection I would guess an additional $500 to $700 worth of parts……. So it could potentially be a $1200 motorcycle/project before I even take one rag to wipe the dirt off...but I feel it's worth it.

In my opinion there are 3 pressing issues that need to be addressed before she rides it and one is the front brake. It works but the inner workings are seized and just a big clump of rust. I thought it was a run of the mill front brake but it's some kind of cable squeeze contraption… something I've never seen before. It will stop now but it needs to be addressed. The 2nd thing is the carburetor. The engine sounds tight and not loose but the carburetor is not adjusted correctly or is not the correct one. It'll start…. Sometimes hard… It will idle high and then sometimes normal. It looks like at 1 point they replaced it with a Chinese knock off. I've had hit-or-miss issues with Chinese knock off carburetors so it may be that. It has 6800 miles on the clock and from the tapit covers it looks like the valves were probably never adjusted.

The 3rd thing is electrical. The horn and the headlight works and the tail light is dim. The previous owner told me it had a slow power drain so it may or may not be charging. I haven't taken a multimeter to anything yet so who knows but I'm preparing for the worst.

Good news is parts seem fairly abundant. Some things are dirt cheap and other things are through the roof. I can find a full electrical knock off wiring harness for 40 bucks new and mirrors and gators and little rubber things cheap.

So for now I will address the front brake before anything else so my wife can ride around in circles in a parking lot.. She's small at 5'2" and this bike is extremely small but something tells me she will outgrow it very quick.


It's nice to have a small bike back in the garage…. even if it is a work in progress. I'm sure things will surprise me along the way.

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In my opinion there are 3 pressing issues that need to be addressed before she rides it and one is the front brake. It works but the inner workings are seized and just a big clump of rust. I thought it was a run of the mill front brake but it's some kind of cable squeeze contraption… something I've never seen before. It will stop now but it needs to be addressed.

Nice little scoot. (y) Unless you want to keep the bike in original condition, I'm guessing that you could probably get a hydraulic front caliper/mastercylinder set up. It would be Chinese of course, but might be an option.
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I've worked miracles in the past with a can of Berrymans, Evaporust,...some phosphoric acid and WD40..... Maybe I'll have the same luck this time.
Post up progress pics - I am interested to see how that unit comes up.
I may be looking into something like that and even a Chinese knock off as Classic250 suggested.
I read through a few threads here about this brake system replacement.

A few years ago a member listed a heap of motorcycles that have the same 27mm front forks and suggested a swap.

Sounds easy, but then there is the whole axle length and spacers and speedo drive stuff to consider, unless you did the complete front end swap with something that fits your triple-trees.

For sure it's possible and might be something to consider if the mechanical brake assembly can't be fixed.

If interested I will post the link to the thread.
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I don't know if this is the right one for your bike, but it's free to download - just click 'download' in the top left hand corner:

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Well I guess there may be another Chinese carburetor in my future.

Who knows...maybe the next Chinese one will work right out of the box.
If you are going for a Chinese replacement, then unless you are trying to maintain the period look of the bike, you have a few of choices - a round slide like you already have, a flat slide for a little more performance and a CV carb for better/smoother response...and all for around $30US each.
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Just did a compression check after about a 2 mile ride...90 psi

Installed the 38 pilot......overall it feels the same with the exception it is now a 4-5 kick start with choke from cold....like mid 40s in temperature....one kick when warm. It's still good.
Maybe put the 40 back in. I would rather waste a miniscule amount of fuel than to have to keep kicking to start it.

Also, I have a bit of experience here with the 4T under-bones, and find that they run MUCH better with a Platinum/Iridium plug. Might be worth a try....and then you can throw a racing (higher output) coil on it and the difference will be very noticeable.
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Any specific type of coil you would recommend?
I'm not sure what's available on Amazon, but here Pitzbike and Nibbi are quite popular. I run Faito which is a locally made coil and very good.


Apparently not available, but should be available somewhere online. Read the reviews in the link - very high user rating.
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Thank you for the tip.....much appreciated.

Any specific type of coil you would recommend?
Maybe try Fleabay. Lots listed there.
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Thank you for the tip.....much appreciated.

Any specific type of coil you would recommend?
The Nibbi is on Ebay at $24USD with free shipping. A bit steep since the same item here is available for around $15USD - maybe the difference is the "free" shipping.
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6V power source
Ah. Didn't know that. The coils that I have been recommending are for 12v systems.

I'm not sure if a 12v coil will work in a 6v system. The coil may not induce enough voltage for an effective spark.

Maybe someone can answer if this is correct or not.
These little parts seem cheap and inexpensive to purchase so I'm just gonna throw parts at the electrical system till things brighten up and work properly.
Have you thought about converting to 12V?

I'm not sure if your bike has points - I think that it does. In 1981 Honda put a CDI unit on the 125 while still running 6v. Might also be worth a thought.
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Check to see if your battery is charging. Start the bike and put a multimeter on the terminals. It should be charging above the voltage rating of the battery. Eg, for a 12V battery normal charging is around 14V. For your 6V battery - maybe 7V?

If it's not charging - then it's probably your regulator/rectifier.

If your R/R is toast, then your bike will run on the charge in the battery and then stop once the battery is flat.
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I'd be going for a new tank. Should last many years maintenance-free.
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I agree.

I haven't taken any measurements yet but I've found a couple on eBay.

Aside from the occasional plugged up pilot jet from the rusty tank and the wiring it's starts easy and runs well. It smokes like a "choo-choo" train but it's all good.



I'd be careful about buying a generic fuel tank - they can't fit every model. I often do a search on Ebay for stuff for the Aprilia Shiver and a whole bunch of crap comes up saying 'fits Aprilia Shiver' and I KNOW that that stuff doesn't fit my bike.
I agree.

Again.....I haven't taken any measurements yet but I wonder how close the CG125 tank/frame/measurements/fitment would be to a CB125. I'm guessing close.
Here you go - scroll down to 'History' - I also reckon that it will come pretty close.

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