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Yep, I'm sure Pete O'Dell Would appreciate being called a mere tinkerer. He's only been building Suzuki 2 stroke engines since 1970. His stuffs machined in the UK from either British material, or European Billet.

Maybe that's why he likes Katy Perry Marc, he's hot when it's cold, yes when it's no, in when it's out an up when it's down... Ye ah
 

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Oh, only last week you said this....


What, Whit contradicting himself? Not here.:)

He could have his own forum and have discussions all day long. And never be wrong, or right.
There is zero contradiction stated there mystic Bob.

I thought you were ignoring me. I'm so sad. I'm going to go watch the little birdies, to pep up.

Time to go wallow around in your new bike's smoke generator, I guess.

Danger, is my business."
 

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Yep, I'm sure Pete O'Dell Would appreciate being called a mere tinkerer. He's only been building Suzuki 2 stroke engines since 1970. His stuffs machined in the UK from either British material, or European Billet.

Maybe that's why he likes Katy Perry Marc, he's hot when it's cold, yes when it's no, in when it's out an up when it's down... Ye ah
O' someone or another hasn't been "building" motors, I say he'd just be scrounging old T and TR parts and assembly those. Pretty easy to bolt up bikes when most of the race development was done decades ago by others. Cast some barrels, copy the factory dry clutch. The tinkering and polishing of old turds habit, bobs up again in old Blighty. While China builds bullet trains.

He sure seems to tick all the tinker boxes.

Got to choof off to the Swindon works again for a gander, with a bit of Max Bygraves warbling in the Rover. Tardis like.

Danger, is my business."

- - - Updated - - -

Rav, take "control" of your thread. some people will send it down the shitter. center plug heads are good. fftp has fork braces. titan for chambers and rearsets. and DJ ive put on some lectrons. ill let you and Rav know how they work. View attachment 15413 . . View attachment 15414
I thought you died, ran away or something. Never to return.

OP, please ignore my legion of fanboys.

Danger, is my business."
 

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Discussion Starter #25
enough with the nonsense already, it seems every time WW responds on a thread, the thread goes sideways and off track...
so, i ask you, please keep this thread informative and on track (track = Suzuki T/GT500, 2 stroke engines etc...).

Hi Geeto,
thanks for the link, went right into my favorites.

Hi Diamond,
your method on measuring the crankcase pressure sounds right, guess it will be one of the firs things ill do when i get the bike.
i think that a small 12V gel cell battery (like the ones used in UPS systems, approx 6Ah) will do the trick.
As for lights, i do plan on racing it, but i also have to have the Israeli DMV approval (annual inspection), which requires a working lighting system, without it i wont be able to insure the bike.

Hi, Dirk
your bike looks fantastic,
will look for some titan heads and chambers... also, please let us know how the lectrons work for you, should be interesting.
what pipes are you running? an porting done ?

Hi WW,
Please stop spamming this thread, and try to keep it on track.
not going to send any part to nowhere, so that's not an option.


Thanks all,
the information provided here is golden! sure helps... will try continue updating this thread as i go.
and as usual, all information and advice are more than welcome.

Ravivos.
 

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Discussion Starter #26
a couple of pics... manage to finally get the ownership issue fixed, and no the bike is officially mine.
got it back home excited, and started looking at it, trying to figure out the do's and dont's.
let me know what you think.
20150724_170751_1.jpg
20150724_170828_1.jpg
 

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Discussion Starter #27
well, would like to get your help about replacing the front end.
a few questions - is the original GT500 front hub have mounting holes for two brake rotors? i think the left ones are covered with a plastic cover, am i right?
i can get the GT750 front suspensions that have the caliper mounting holes on both sides, will they suffice? should i replace the springs to a different ones? anything specific?
i would like to reduce the weight of the front by using a thinner rotors, can anyone recommend a specific rotor from a specific model that will bolt right on and have the proper offset? floating rotors will be great.
any recommendations for the front and rear rims? should i use the original ones or go with the aluminum ones?
spokes - just buy a set off ebay and go with that?

thanks.
 

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Suzuki Gt500 1976-1977 (usa) Front Wheel - schematic partsfiche

Suzuki Fork Brace by Tarozzi

Forget cheap eBay spokes, get them from reputable mobs like Central Wheels UK or Buchanan's USA. You pay extra for no hassles and a quality product. Don't buy cheap - shit no - name rims off of eBay. You have been warned.

You don't need heavy old twin discs, just one modern cali, a bigger single disc+ally adaptor plate and a real fork brace. You hardly need a floating disc, it's just not necessary. Upspecing with no real performance gain is just dicking around, with no real outcome.

Ask Central Wheel in the UK what they recommend regarding ally rim sizes. Forget shouldered / valanced rims, they just add weight for little gain in rigidity. Forget using seventeens, it will just make it handle worse as a road bike. Get Avon tyres to suit your chosen rim sizes, they have tyre / rim compatability charts on the Avontyres website. Much bigger tires than stock, is rarely any better.

Danger, is my business."
 

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Discussion Starter #29
the microfiche shows that there are holes but cant really know if the holes are threaded... hope someone with actual experience with upgrading one of these can pitch in.

As for the fork brace, the Tarozzi looks good, just wonder if it will work with the front fender.

i have no intention in mounting old twin discs, will go with two modern ones , this is why i am going with the GT750 tubes.
will go with floating rotors, i prefer doing things right... my experience shows major performance gain when going with floating rotors, mainly on the linearity and continuity of the brake... you say dicking around, i say major improvement.

As for the rims, mine are in pretty good condition, maybe i'll just replace the spokes, would love to get and actual experienced based answer on the handling improvement comparing the original rims and aluminum ones (beside the obvious weigh reduction).
still want to keep the original wheel diameter and tires size.
 

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the microfiche shows that there are holes but cant really know if the holes are threaded... hope someone with actual experience with upgrading one of these can pitch in.

As for the fork brace, the Tarozzi looks good, just wonder if it will work with the front fender.

i have no intention in mounting old twin discs, will go with two modern ones , this is why i am going with the GT750 tubes.
will go with floating rotors, i prefer doing things right... my experience shows major performance gain when going with floating rotors, mainly on the linearity and continuity of the brake... you say dicking around, i say major improvement.

As for the rims, mine are in pretty good condition, maybe i'll just replace the spokes, would love to get and actual experienced based answer on the handling improvement comparing the original rims and aluminum ones (beside the obvious weigh reduction).
still want to keep the original wheel diameter and tires size.
So you work on aircraft, and can't drill a M8 hole or use a tap? Take the plastic cover off and have a look maybe? Even if they were meant to have spare disc holes from the factory, they might not have any. The factories do what they like sometimes.

Twin discs will give little real benefit over a good single disc setup. In fact the extra weight of twin discs might make the flexy front end chatter under braking and fast cornering. Also it would operate worse over bumps due to the increase in unsprung weight. Basic chassis dynamics, 101.

The Tarozzi brace is designed to clear a OEM fender.

Unsprung weight is far more crucial that ultimate braking power. The extra weight of twin discs will just feed in more flex, unsprung weight suspension responses and extra braking forces into the already flexy and marginal fork tubes.

A "Major improvement" is highly unlikely with the long flexy GT frame being retained, period. You would attain a slightly lighter weight with ally rims, and slightly better suspension response over small bumps. That's about all.

Motorcycling engineering experience relates to most modifications. Like here.

Danger, is my business."
 

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Yep, I was going to say fit some air valves / caps in the forks. Like 8 to 12 PSI, maybe. I get sick of suggesting air caps, because you have to hear all the same dumb criticisms from guys who have never used them. I've never, ever, had a problem using them.

The dead guy I knew who raced T's used Krober ignition units running on the end of the crank. Krober ignitions are like arc welders, but in a good way, not just burning holes in pistons.

Danger, is my business."
 

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Discussion Starter #32
Tom, Are you kidding? your information is golden! everything you write here, present here with pictures, or give your opinion, is based on actual racing experience, and i truly appreciate you sharing this information.

Tom, WW, can you further elaborate on the air caps for the forks? how does it changes the feel/damping/steering?
Tom, any recommendation for good springs on the front?

If i understand correctly, a single rotor can be a bit lacking in braking force, do you recommend going with twin thin (light) rotors?

haven't to the engine yet, trying to get the proper parts for proper handling first... then will start thinking about engine modification.

thanks a lot man!
 

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Follow the advances made by modern technology:
Staying with a single disk and increasing the area and number of active pucks in your brake callipers, will be far more performance oriented then doubling up on mediocre brakes.

<- This

Blows away this ->


With very little increase in weight.
And you will immediately feel the difference at the lever, with stronger and far more controlled braking.


Discs can be drilled or slotted to lighten them, but making discs thin in profile is rarely a viable option.


There are 2 ways to brace RSU forks, either with a brace attached above the wheel (old tech), or a larger diameter/stronger front axle.
Both work, but the bigger stronger axle works better and results in a huge wheel bearing spec upgrade.
 

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Follow the advances made by modern technology:
Staying with a single disk and increasing the area and number of active pucks in your brake callipers, will be far more performance oriented then doubling up on mediocre brakes.

<- This

Blows away this ->


With very little increase in weight.
And you will immediately feel the difference at the lever, with stronger and far more controlled braking.


Discs can be drilled or slotted to lighten them, but making discs thin in profile is rarely a viable option.


There are 2 ways to brace RSU forks, either with a brace attached above the wheel (old tech), or a larger diameter/stronger front axle.
Both work, but the bigger stronger axle works better and results in a huge wheel bearing spec upgrade.
As usual TrainerWheels is off the pace.

You can't fit much bigger fatter axles to old forks and hubs: they just won't fit, period. Not enough meat.

The Honda race team has thinned stock discs and won Daytona once, and I guess Mr.H knows his stuff.

Telefix and Tarrozi style fork braces work just fine on older bikes. They make old forks feel much more rigid.

A twin piston brake caliper will work just fine on a GT. Modern multi piston calis are fitted so longer pads can be used on narrower diameter braking surfaces on the discs. It's not all about increasing brakepad loading when braking, by having more pistons.

A single disc works fine on a race track, so rule out twins on a street bike.

Danger, is my business."
 

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Touching on the air fork thing.

The area of your forks that don't contain oil, springs or damper rods contain air. oil, a liquid, does not compress (much). Air on the other hand does. Even without adding extra to the forks, the air at atmosphere compresses as the fork goes through it's motion and acts as springs and as it compresses increases it's spring rate exponentially.

By adding a few PSI through a cap mounted valve, you're increasing the initial spring rate of the air in the cavity. It's an easy way to increase the spring rate.

Alternately, you can increase the level of oil in the forks (again in small increments, the oil has to have some air to compress or you'll lose travel to the point of hydrolock) to increase the progressive action of the air in the forks.
 

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GS1100 disc is a bolt on and is lighter. The hub should be drilled and tapped on both sides and was used on pretty much all the GT Suzukis - 250 up to the 750. Calipers - the EX500 is popular for race bikes as it's legal. Look at GSXR 4 pot calipers but keep in mind you will need to make an adapter plate for the caliper and you may need to play with the rotor and caliper spacing. Some of the 4 pot calipers will hit the spokes when centered on the rotor. Braided line, good pads for the disc, and I am also a big fan of Brembo master cylinders.

GT750 forks will work in the stock GT500 triple clamps as will GT550 forks. The GT750 forks are roughly 1-2 inches longer than the GT500. GT550 forks are the same length to 1 inch longer. You will want to internally shorten the fork if you want the fork tops flush with the triple clamp. Be careful about raising the front of the bike as the handling will gets really bad at speed if you raise the front without raising the back. The 550 & 750 forks will accept a cartridge emulator and progressive makes replacement springs for them. The damper rods in the GT500 forks are a different design and cannot be easily modified.

Central Wheel Components in the UK can supply alloy rims and stainless spokes. Switching to an 18" rim up front will make the bike handle better. 2.15 front and 2.50 rear. You can use a 2.50 on the front as well. Tom gave you good advice on the tire sizes. No more than a 100 width up front and a 110 in back. Otherwise you will slow the steering and the bike becomes much less responsive.

All Balls makes a tapered bearing kit that fits the Suzuki GT's - kit number 22-1005. You may need to grind a lip on the stem for the upper bearing - it will depend on the stem in your GT.

BTW - My race bike uses a single disc and it is sufficient. I have known a couple of people that raced T500s with dual discs and a few of them switched back to single disc after some near stoppies under hard braking. For a street only bike, dual discs may be the way to go as panic stops are more likely. It will depend on your comfort level I suppose.
 

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If you run more than about 18PSI of air in forks ( measured: static, extended, with the wheel off the ground ), you will probably blow the seals out when you hit a bump.

Danger is, my business."
 
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