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Discussion Starter #1
Quite looking forward to this one.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
It looks well cared for, is this the dealer's bike?

What's the plan?
Yes mate, it is the dealers bike. It looks half decent in the pic, but not so much up close.
First job will be sorting out some wiring, and see if it'll run.
The owner wants the frame painted, tank resprayed in an original colour, silencers, rear wheel rim , and wiring loom will probably need replacing.
Not to mention all the usual service items.
So a fair ammount of work
 

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Discussion Starter #7
A good few hours spent in the shed today.
After making a rather large bodge with the wiring, all the electrics seem ok, with the exception of the brake light. Even had a spark.
I was just about to give up getting the bloody thing started when it finally fired. It's idling at 3000rpm, but it's a start.
The sump drain plug is going to be a issue, it's been way over tightened, and I've managed to round it off. Tried heat, and hitting it with a chisel, but it won't move.
No real suprise that there's an oil leak or two.
 

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Is that the factory plug in there? Hard to tell from the photo, but it looks different. ... mine is the first incarnation of the OIF (wish I had a better acronym... something about oil and the floor) , so the plug may have changed by 78. I can use either a 1/2 BSW or 13/16 “normal” socket. Yours looks smaller, with a flange on it. Maybe they reduced the size in a failed attempt to keep folks from reefing the shit out of it. I would be inclined to warn the owner just in case someone jammed something foreign in there and things are going to go south.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Is that the factory plug in there? Hard to tell from the photo, but it looks different. ... mine is the first incarnation of the OIF (wish I had a better acronym... something about oil and the floor) , so the plug may have changed by 78. I can use either a 1/2 BSW or 13/16 “normal” socket. Yours looks smaller, with a flange on it. Maybe they reduced the size in a failed attempt to keep folks from reefing the shit out of it. I would be inclined to warn the owner just in case someone jammed something foreign in there and things are going to go south.
Sorry about the crap pic it was as good as I could get from underneath the bike.
Can't say for sure if it's the original plug, but it is 13/16ths. My main worry is hitting to hard, and crackiing the case.
The young man who has made me a number of alloy tanks over the years is good at this sort of stuff, so may well give him a call tomorrow.
 

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Does he have a TIG welder? I did this one a while ago.... it was in something important, so was sweating bullets setting it up, so the drill would be centred and not take out any threads. Works well for small stuff, but with the flange on the drain plug it takes more than these guys to budge it. If he bevels the end of whatever he welds on there, then you can sneak in there and get reasonably good penetration on the backside. Don’t think I would want to use anything other than TIG. Easier to control things and actually see what’s going on. Either way good luck... it is gratifying when the little bastards come out without any drama.
If you lived closer, I could fix you up with a NOS rim, but the catch is it’s amongst a bunch (all unlabelled) and you might go mental figuring out which ones are drilled for conical hubs.
 

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Discussion Starter #14 (Edited)
View attachment 98441

Does he have a TIG welder? I did this one a while ago.... it was in something important, so was sweating bullets setting it up, so the drill would be centred and not take out any threads. Works well for small stuff, but with the flange on the drain plug it takes more than these guys to budge it. If he bevels the end of whatever he welds on there, then you can sneak in there and get reasonably good penetration on the backside. Don’t think I would want to use anything other than TIG. Easier to control things and actually see what’s going on. Either way good luck... it is gratifying when the little bastards come out without any drama.
If you lived closer, I could fix you up with a NOS rim, but the catch is it’s amongst a bunch (all unlabelled) and you might go mental figuring out which ones are drilled for conical hubs.
He has a TIG welder, only problem is I'll need to get the engine over to Brightlingsea, which is a bit of a faff.
Not sure what the previous owner was thinking regarding the wheels. Both have stainless spokes fitted, the front rim has been replaced with a newish Hagon, the rear rim however looks to be original, and is as rough as a Badgers arse.
 

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Discussion Starter #16
Should have been a reasonably straight forward job removing the swinging arm, but the pivot's locked in solid.
I've tried heat, and brute force to no avail.
 

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Can you cut the head off the bolt and drive it through the rest of the way ? bolt must not be anything exotic or it wouldn't have rusted to begin with.
 

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I've had pretty good luck freeing rusty pins with a heat gun and penetrating oil. You would need to lay the bike down, heat the swing arm and dab penetrating oil, with a paint brush, where the pin protrudes. It should suck the oil in just like solder would.
 

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Discussion Starter #19
Can you cut the head off the bolt and drive it through the rest of the way ? bolt must not be anything exotic or it wouldn't have rusted to begin with.
I've been using a large wrench on the head of the bolt in an attempt to free it.
Looking at the overall condition of the bike I'd say it's been ridden through a good few winters. Every nut, and bolt seems to be putting up a bit of a fight.
Just out of interest I checked the MOT history. Turns out to be a 1977 model, original colour was blue. Last MOT was 12 years ago, and since 2006 has covered the grand total of 5 miles.
Looks as though the mileage of 11922 miles is probably genuine.
 

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Discussion Starter #20
I've had pretty good luck freeing rusty pins with a heat gun and penetrating oil. You would need to lay the bike down, heat the swing arm and dab penetrating oil, with a paint brush, where the pin protrudes. It should suck the oil in just like solder would.
I'll give it another go when or if the engine ever comes out.
About 10 years ago I had a similar issue with a front engine mounting bolt on a R100. Ended up having to cut through the bolt, and take the engine to an engineer to drill it out.
Riding through UK winters doesn't do a bike any favours.
 
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