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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
so now that I have the GS in my garage, I can finally start ordering the things I need for it. The PO used if for track days, but due to a TBI from an accident (presumably on a different bike...) can no longer ride. My plan is to catch up on basic maintenance for it, do some suspension improvements and get it on the road. I still need to get a safety wire tool to wire everything down once its all assembled again.

As a side note... I know it may be douchey, but I'm seriously considering leaving the number plates on for the street.

Right now I have the following ordered:
-clymer manual
-Progressive front and rear suspension
-rear caliper rebuild kit
-front fork seals
-all balls wheel bearings
-all balls steering stem bearings

sgs.jpg

The rear caliper was "sticky" and after taking it apart, one of the pistons was frozen, and the master cylinder had seen better days (there was actually a plastic o-ring lodged in the hole of the banjo bolt... weird). Luckily, the PO had two other rear calipers in various states that he gave me so I took all three and disassembled and cleaned them in order to put together one good one. A grease gun is the absolute easiest way to undo a stuck caliper!

unnamed.jpg
2.jpg

So right now, I have three serviceable rear calipers, two good pistons, and one good master cylinder. All that's left is for the rebuild kit to arrive and to get it all put together. Later on I'll upgrade the rear to braided lines.

The next issue was the leaky petcock. The PO had switched from a vacuum one to standard, and had made his own bracket for it. After taking the petcock off the tank and cleaning away the paper gasket and rubber cement gasket I found why it was leaking (other than shitty gasket materials).

Seems that there's a dent in the side of the opening that was a little too much for the rubber sealer to handle. In the next couple days I'll sand the area down and hit it with a coat of JB weld to level it all out, then get a strip of rubber to use as a gasket. This ought to do until I get the second tank cleaned out and painted up.
4.jpg

Here's the petcock assembly... I've added some O-rings to the screws to hold them on for now. When the petcock is attached to the tank, the O-rings will seat in the recesses on the tank (like stock).

34.jpg
45.jpg

And at the end of the day (but it still runs with fuel in the carbs):

3.jpg
 
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You have got the makings for a very nice vintage superbike. The one glaring issue for me is that hideous seat. It also looks like the rear cowl sits too far back behind the rear edge of the rear wheel. I would shorten the whole thin until the end of the seat cowl is even with the back edge of the rear tire. Then reupholster the shortened seat pan to look right with the tank and rear cowl. The yellow with black number plates are novice colors for club racing. If you are going to run number plates then do it with white plates and a black 34 on them. Google images will give you some ideas.

Ken
 

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Jeez - dodgy fuel tap conversion.

Aren't your bolt o rings going to hold the plate off the tank and not let it seal? I'd just be getting another fuel tap from China off eBay. Most fuel taps have the same bolt spacings.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
You have got the makings for a very nice vintage superbike. The one glaring issue for me is that hideous seat. It also looks like the rear cowl sits too far back behind the rear edge of the rear wheel. I would shorten the whole thin until the end of the seat cowl is even with the back edge of the rear tire. Then reupholster the shortened seat pan to look right with the tank and rear cowl. The yellow with black number plates are novice colors for club racing. If you are going to run number plates then do it with white plates and a black 34 on them. Google images will give you some ideas.

Ken
Thanks for the advice.

The seat is the stock setup, just the pan has been reupholstered... Ill see if it needs adjustment after riding it a bit.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Jeez - dodgy fuel tap conversion.

Aren't your bolt o rings going to hold the plate off the tank and not let it seal? I'd just be getting another fuel tap from China off eBay. Most fuel taps have the same bolt spacings.
There's a recess in the tank for the o-rings. The rubber gasket will cover the whole aluminum plate and the whole thing should sit flush. That said, yes, I am going to replace the whole thing... Probably with a pingel set up.
 

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These superbikes really seem to offer a tone of useable performance for bargain prices.
 

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That's going to be one sweet GS. I agree with the seat comment but I'm sure you will address that. I'm looking forward to the progress.
 

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That's the colors required for Sportsman classes in AHRMA...
True, but the GS750 would be a vintage superbike in AHRMA and that requires green plates. If that was raced it would have been with WERA, CCS, CRMA or CRA but most likely MRA if it was a MO bike. All of those Orgs have yellow and black as novice plates. I have raced with all of them and AHRMA, except CMRA.

Ken
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
True, but the GS750 would be a vintage superbike in AHRMA and that requires green plates. If that was raced it would have been with WERA, CCS, CRMA or CRA but most likely MRA if it was a MO bike. All of those Orgs have yellow and black as novice plates. I have raced with all of them and AHRMA, except CMRA.

Ken

She. Sounds. Hideous.

gs novice.jpg
 

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Looks like you picked it up from that CL ad you posted.

Congrats. Lots of things you can do to the GS.
 

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More GS750E builds I say.

It sure beats dealing with bored young idiots or CB350's with the tire rubbing on the frame loop.


Danger, is my business."
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
As an aside, it's really annoying dealing with thegsresources and how they're migrating their web site. Using internet archives to look up stuff on the site from 2013 gets old quick. That said, a ton of the stuff there is (obviously) geared towards the GS1000.
 

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There's a recess in the tank for the o-rings.
theres a what? Thats a hole which they put a weldnut over to attach the tap. I'd be a tad upset if you developed a groovy new way to jihad a suzi four pot by giving it a leak source of raw petrol above hot things that make for flat black paintjobs with no discernible plastic parts left on the bike.



number four does all your upper sealing and a pair of number sixes take care of anything that wicks down the threads. I've seen fibre, copper, and alloy all used in the material of said washer and they're under the tap so that number 4 gets a clean flat unobstructed shot at sealing the top half of it.

Not saying your plan won't work, but if i have the choice of trying to reinvent the wheel, or becoming a fireball, i'm pretty happy with wheels as they are.
 

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I say leave the seat. The original yosh gs1000 had a seat like that and that is probably why the po had that one done. On the GS the tail is bolted to the frame section so it is difficult to move it around without modding the frame rails. I mean the bike is already cut in another place so if you wanted to I don't see the harm in doing it since it will never be stock anyway, but I also don't really see the benefit as it is a lot of work to do properly.

Instead i would suggest swapping out the stock brake and tail for something that sits more flush with the cowl. Maybe LED. This will also help sell the faux race bike look as the original ran without lights.

If you want to run the plates either keep the ones you have or get copies of the originals off the yoshimura/ Wes Cooley bike.
 

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Yep, I say keep the stock tail and that stepped seat.

I seem to recall that some of the GS1000S models had a stepped seat like in this pic:

This one appears to be a redone stock humped one.

GS1000S.jpg

Danger, is my business."
 

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More GS750E builds I say.

It sure beats dealing with bored young idiots or CB350's with the tire rubbing on the frame loop.


Danger, is my business."
Wholly Hell!
Best thing you have ever posted!
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
number four does all your upper sealing and a pair of number sixes take care of anything that wicks down the threads. I've seen fibre, copper, and alloy all used in the material of said washer and they're under the tap so that number 4 gets a clean flat unobstructed shot at sealing the top half of it.

Not saying your plan won't work, but if i have the choice of trying to reinvent the wheel, or becoming a fireball, i'm pretty happy with wheels as they are.
appreciate it, I had interpreted the layout as the 6's went between the tank and the bracket, not the screw and the bracket.
 

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True, but the GS750 would be a vintage superbike in AHRMA and that requires green plates. If that was raced it would have been with WERA, CCS, CRMA or CRA but most likely MRA if it was a MO bike. All of those Orgs have yellow and black as novice plates. I have raced with all of them and AHRMA, except CMRA.
Good info, thanx.
 
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