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1980 CX500 Caf� Racer

275K views 721 replies 62 participants last post by  Farmer_John 
#1 ·
1980 CX500 Café Racer

I just picked up a 80 CX500 with 10,112 mile on the clock, it is a pretty clean bike one owner, 82 year old could/would no longer ride it. Did not have the heart to tell him I was going to chop it and make it a Café Racer. That said riding it home today it had a knocking in the engine and the oil seals need replacing.

I am from the vintage scootering scene and am new to the Café Racer one. This will be my first motorcycle build.















 
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#4 ·
Before you do anything else to it, check out the knocking noise. Those things were bad about eating the cam and lifters. If that is the problem you will be tearing down the entire engine and throwing some money at it. The good news is that chopping up a CX500C is no loss to the world in any sense, even if it just gets torn apart and never put back together. There are very few (less than 5 in the whole world) nicely done CX500 custom CX500's and even fewer that started as CX500C's. There is a reason for that. You are very limited to find any wheels other than OEM CX500 wheels that fit so you are stuck with crappy comstars in very few, but almost all, crappy diameter and widths. Therefore you are stuck with limited tire sizes and brands. The forks are crap. The frame is ugly crap, especially the loop that goes from the swingarm pivot to the upper shock mount. It should be straight. The motor is kind of cool. Too bad it isn't chain drive so you could do something about the final gearing and rear wheel.

Good luck, you'll need it with this lump.
 
#5 ·
Welcome.

How are you looking to improve your bike? Any inspiration?

Never really liked the CX but I don't really see them as a basis for a race bike either... over here (UK) they sell kits with bolt on pieces to turn your CX into something 'special' (i wanna be special daddy, just like eeeeveryone else!)

isn't that the 'custom' version?

UK CX Kits.. http://www.caferacerkits.co.uk/the-cafe-racer-kit/cx-500-doner-bike/
 
#48 ·
Welcome.

How are you looking to improve your bike? Any inspiration?

Never really liked the CX but I don't really see them as a basis for a race bike either... over here (UK) they sell kits with bolt on pieces to turn your CX into something 'special' (i wanna be special daddy, just like eeeeveryone else!)

isn't that the 'custom' version?

UK CX Kits.. CX 500 Donor Bike - Cafe Racer Kits
No prefab kits for me thanks. I do not want a bike like anybody else. I know most people do not like the CX500 platform, But I also do not want a bike just like everybody else.

Cheers
Mike
 
#6 ·
While taking apart the bike, I have run into many mis matched bolts, standard bolts forced into metric threads!! The left head had 4 destroyed threads found it was cheaper to just buy a used head off eBay than to repair them.



One of the worst ones.



Replacement
 
#8 ·
Started to remove the front end and wanted to label the wires, I know I could always look at the diagram but this is easier.







Stock Frontend, Need anything hit me up.



Removed.



Decided to go with the All Balls fork conversion. went in very easily. Except the old crown race that took a bit of time.



With the help of my Dermel™ and a chisel it came off.



I used the wrong spacer, they sent two with the kit. I used the thicker one but now want to use the thinner one for a better fit. UGH! Anybody have any ideas in how to get this off without destroying it?



It fits!



If you lock close the top lock nut does not thread on as much as I would like. Thus I need to remove the thick spacer for the thinner one.



The stock ignition switch will fit. Keeping the wiring that much simpler. Need to see if a locksmith can re-key my CBR600 gas cap to the stock key.
 
#9 ·
Dropped the engine to have a look inside.



UGH the sludge was not a happy sight



Still wondering how it even ran?



More Slime



The Stator looked slime/sludge free.



After cleaning the Pulse Stator





But the flywheel does not look so good.

 
#10 ·
Diving deeper into the engine. Slowly taking a lot of photos to remember how it all goes back together.







- - - Updated - - -

The clutch plates and body were BLACK.



The clutch housing after a deep cleaning



The Pulser area deep cleaned



The top end deep cleaned and both now are leveled.

 
#14 ·


New flywheel installed, This is where all the melted plastic came form in there bottom of the case. Must have got very hot at some point to melt.

- - - Updated - - -



Newer pulser in stalled, So much better than the snot covered one.



Water pump wheel, Pulser cover and showing the new wiring harness installed
 
#15 ·
Next thing accomplished was the mechanical fan delete.



First step was to make three L shaped brackets the fit snug against the fan and the housing



Then drilled holes in the bottom brackets that match the holes in the fan tabs.



Followed by drilling the holes in the side of the housing. I made two holes so it would not twist and it also has one hole in the single layer and one in the double layer of the housing.



I laid it flat on the face and then had a piece of cardboard to space the front of the fan just inset of the housing edge. I am going to put a small rubber hose that is cut down the middle to create a gasket that is snug against the radiator.

- - - Updated - - -



Here it is all bolted in.



Testing to make sure the spacing is right.



Next was to cut off the fan shaft. I cut it off 1/8 of an inch from the threads for the rpms.





Installed the Crank shaft cover/Plug that covers the cut off part.


When it was all bolted down I have 1/4" room to spare. I used a Ducati 966 fan.
 
#16 ·


Installing the engine back into the frame to see if it starts. After hooking up the carbs and filling the oil and radiator, reconnecting all electrical wires I tried to start it up. It popped once or twice even back fired once but never started, I tried until the battery was dead.

Oh snap where to start, it ran before I took it apart, Here is what I replaced:
Cam Chain, Adjusted the timing according to the official shop settings
Cam Chain Adjuster
New stator (David Sliver Spares), Had to rewire it back into the harness
New Flywheel
New Pluser unit
New stator (David Sliver Spares) Spark Plug Caps
New Spark Plugs Honda brand
New gaskets and o rings

Followed the official shop manual in doing all the repairs.




Retuned this evening and started by checking all my wiring connections old and the new.



Then dropped the engine to do a recheck



After the double checking of the cam chain settings and this time did the right-hand chain push test. All stayed in place so time to bolt it all back up. Blue loctite added for good measure.



Then to satisfy my OCD side used my laser level to triple check the alignment.





After I took this photo to show the new stator I saw the blazing problem! The stator pick ups are on backwards! I was so happy to finally find something that was truly wrong.


With the pick ups now in the correct spots it was time to put it all back together and see it will start.




Cleaned both sides if the mechanical seal.



Installed a new copper washer.



Ready to instal it back into the frame.

http://i1302.photobucket.com/albums...8FBFD61-9450-000004C01431AB0C_zps52e081a6.mp4

Moment of truth... Drum roll. Bam she roars to life. It is 2 am so tomorrow I will give it a few revs.

Dang I am so pleased that was all it was.

Now that the engine is running great, I can work on the wiring harness, and moving the electronics to be under the seat. Next will be to wire up the newer CBR controls.
 
#17 ·


All connections crimped using the very helpful diagram Noah posted, yes I did do a test run before soldering and heat shrinking it all up.



It all worked, time to solder



First layer of heat shrink tubing



Second and third layers of heat shrink tubing installed.

- - - Updated - - -



Today I had two new blank keys cut. And asked the lock smith if the original key could be made to fit the newer CBR600 gas cap. She agreed it could if one could get inside to the tumblers. After I left I googled it and sure enough a site showing how to disable it for painting. This even I was able to achieve my goal. To adjust the tumblers to make the older original ignition key work in this new gas cap.



Used the original key to get the lock assembly out. Next to see how close my keys are and how much grinding will be needed. If one has access to new tumblers one could choose the correct one. But I do not and luck would have it only minor grinding was needed.



Removed one at a time grinding them down until they no longer stuck out beyond the center assembly.



After a few adjustments I achieved the desired result. The original key making the tumblers flush.



Put it all back together and it now works perfect. I am going to have this cap welded into the Deluxe tank. And having one key is the best part.



 
#55 ·
Nice tidy work - I don't think I've ever seen anymore pour this much love into a CX.

Just a little tip from someone who's done a bunch of switchgear swaps and wiring extensions over the years - if you stagger the joins along the length of the cables you will end up with a much neater result. And your loom will look less like a snake that's just swallowed a golf ball.

Keep up the good work - even if the bike isn't an ideal starting platform it's looking pretty good.
 
#20 ·
ugh, another cx500.

well...at least you seem competent working on engine internals which is more than I can say for most of the cx500 people that show up here. Still, if you are looking for someone to say "wow, what a great platform" or "wow, what great work" prepare to be underwhelmed. I honestly can't fathom putting that much time into the maggot at all (yes the nickname for the cx500 is the maggot - ask any englishman).

So what are your plans for this bike? where is this heading? what are you going to do to actually make the cx500 something interesting?
 
#23 ·
ugh, another cx500.

well...at least you seem competent working on engine internals which is more than I can say for most of the cx500 people that show up here. Still, if you are looking for someone to say "wow, what a great platform" or "wow, what great work" prepare to be underwhelmed. I honestly can't fathom putting that much time into the maggot at all (yes the nickname for the cx500 is the maggot - ask any englishman).

Plastic maggot
 
#22 ·

Rewired the main fuses so they will now be in the back under the seat.



Now to move and install the Oil and Neutral lights.



Drilled out the bolt holes to allow the LED lights to fit.



There was a small lip left over so it drilled it off.





Under side connection.



Wired up and they are working. I decided I have no need for the high beam or blinker indicator lights.



The electrical system now completely works. It will take a bit of time to shorten and re-route the wires but that is next. Hard part is complete.
 
#24 · (Edited)
Next on the list is to wire up the fan



1. Wired a splitter to the negative lead one to go to the thermal switch the other to the resistor.
2. Drilled two holes into the shroud on the bottom for the resistor.
3. Resistor mounted.
4. Soldering on the leads.
5. Insulated wire covering by fan.
6. Insulated wire covering for the positive lead wire.
7. Wired and heat shrank the temp switch.
8. Insulated wire covering over temp switch.
9. All the connections will happen up inside the old fan shroud.



Close up of the wiring
 
#26 ·


Next item completed was to sand off the extra material off the CBR600RR brake calipers. If your going to do this up grade you need the correct calipers there are two models that come on the CBR600RR front ends you can find on eBay. You want the smaller, flat backed type. The others are too big and you cannot remove the needed material. The white arrows pointing to the correct model. Numbers 4 & 6 show this flat backed caliper best. 5 Shows there curve that makes this one recognizable in a eBay posting.



Removing the needed metal off the calipers


Steps:
0. I did not get a photo of this step. I had the wheel on the fork and used a awl to scribe a line on the caliper using the spoke that was over lapping the caliper.

1. I used a angle finder to find the degree I need to set my belt sander table. Then "SLOWLY" removed the material on both calipers to get the clearance I needed so the spokes would clear. I put the calipers back on many times to make sure I only removed the minimum amount. I did not remove all the metal that I scribed on the caliper from the spoke overlay. I just removed enough for the spokes to clear.

2. Angle achieved.

3. After the 80 grit belt sander I hand sanded the small bevel. It was still hitting this part of the caliper.

4. This shows how much of the caliper metal was removed.

5. Showing the close clearance of the spoke and caliper.

6. The wheel spins freely, I will wait to paint the sanded part off until the dry build is done and an actual ride is completed to make sure I do in fact have enough clearance.



Spinning Freely
 
#83 ·


Next item completed was to sand off the extra material off the CBR600RR brake calipers. If your going to do this up grade you need the correct calipers there are two models that come on the CBR600RR front ends you can find on eBay. You want the smaller, flat backed type. The others are too big and you cannot remove the needed material. The white arrows pointing to the correct model. Numbers 4 & 6 show this flat backed caliper best. 5 Shows there curve that makes this one recognizable in a eBay posting.



Removing the needed metal off the calipers


Steps:
0. I did not get a photo of this step. I had the wheel on the fork and used a awl to scribe a line on the caliper using the spoke that was over lapping the caliper.

1. I used a angle finder to find the degree I need to set my belt sander table. Then "SLOWLY" removed the material on both calipers to get the clearance I needed so the spokes would clear. I put the calipers back on many times to make sure I only removed the minimum amount. I did not remove all the metal that I scribed on the caliper from the spoke overlay. I just removed enough for the spokes to clear.

2. Angle achieved.

3. After the 80 grit belt sander I hand sanded the small bevel. It was still hitting this part of the caliper.

4. This shows how much of the caliper metal was removed.

5. Showing the close clearance of the spoke and caliper.

6. The wheel spins freely, I will wait to paint the sanded part off until the dry build is done and an actual ride is completed to make sure I do in fact have enough clearance.



Spinning Freely
Please remember that a wheel can will flex a bit.. wouldnt want to see the caliper mangle those spokes on a turn or lean over..
 
#27 ·


I clean out all the wires out of the back end of the bike.

The next part I am going to tackle is to get the under seat organized.

1. Moved all wires out of the area

2. Started making a templet out of cardboard.

3. Made one side fit then traced it onto another piece of paper flipped it and traced it onto the other side of the cardboard.

4. Front fits in cardboard form, metal one will need some fine tuning

5. Now for the back.

6. Much easier to do then the front

7. Both fit with ease. I am not a welder so I will fasten them using bolts then have my friend weld them up later.

8. Next to figure out how to best get them all to fit.
 
#29 ·


Found this on eBay:
This is a NOS Honda Stanley Headlight Bulb Unit for the Honda Bikes listed below. The part number 33120-431-505 which 33120-431-671, 34901-MC7-601AH & 33180-422-003 purchased separately are cheaper then bought as a whole so this is the same at a cheaper price. It replaces the original discontinued bulb 33120-425-671 also will work in place of 33321-505-003, 33321-568-671, 33321-634-671, 33321-371-672 and 33321-341-701. It is 60/55 Watts instead of 60/50. I will be a little brighter on low beam. It is in excellent condition.

Basically it is an upgrade that allows you to use a H4 bulb instead of have to find and replace the while headlamp assembly.




1. The rear of the original assembly
2. Took it all apart
3. Matching up the new headlight bezel. it can only go in one way.
4. Went back back together very nicely
5. It does have a flat front
6. Old and new and showing it uses a H4 bulb
7. Bulb inserted
8. Rubber boot installed
9. Completed unit ready to be installed on the bike.

Added bonus it was NOS.
 
#30 ·


Next was to shorten the wires to the Flasher Unit



Cut shorter with new plastic insulated covers.



The newly layer out wiring system. I removed the stepped shelf in the second seat pan area, that was going to hold the battery. I am now going to put the battery in the tail section.



Close up



Second rely wired in with shortened wires, The one on the right bottom side of the photo. This one is for the USB powerpoint and the electronic fan upgrade.

I will wrap all the wires with the black wiring harness plastic non sticky tape, when I am happy with all the connections.
 
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