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Glad to see you did the triple bypass. As for removing the bearing from the triples, buy a bearing splitter:

 
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Discussion Starter #22

Rewired the main fuses so they will now be in the back under the seat.



Now to move and install the Oil and Neutral lights.



Drilled out the bolt holes to allow the LED lights to fit.



There was a small lip left over so it drilled it off.





Under side connection.



Wired up and they are working. I decided I have no need for the high beam or blinker indicator lights.



The electrical system now completely works. It will take a bit of time to shorten and re-route the wires but that is next. Hard part is complete.
 

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ugh, another cx500.

well...at least you seem competent working on engine internals which is more than I can say for most of the cx500 people that show up here. Still, if you are looking for someone to say "wow, what a great platform" or "wow, what great work" prepare to be underwhelmed. I honestly can't fathom putting that much time into the maggot at all (yes the nickname for the cx500 is the maggot - ask any englishman).

Plastic maggot
 

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Discussion Starter #24 (Edited)
Next on the list is to wire up the fan



1. Wired a splitter to the negative lead one to go to the thermal switch the other to the resistor.
2. Drilled two holes into the shroud on the bottom for the resistor.
3. Resistor mounted.
4. Soldering on the leads.
5. Insulated wire covering by fan.
6. Insulated wire covering for the positive lead wire.
7. Wired and heat shrank the temp switch.
8. Insulated wire covering over temp switch.
9. All the connections will happen up inside the old fan shroud.



Close up of the wiring
 

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Discussion Starter #25
ugh, another cx500.

well...at least you seem competent working on engine internals which is more than I can say for most of the cx500 people that show up here. Still, if you are looking for someone to say "wow, what a great platform" or "wow, what great work" prepare to be underwhelmed. I honestly can't fathom putting that much time into the maggot at all (yes the nickname for the cx500 is the maggot - ask any englishman).

So what are your plans for this bike? where is this heading? what are you going to do to actually make the cx500 something interesting?
Yes I am where that they are called "Plastic Maggots" But there are so many CB750 on the road. I just fell in love with the look of the Twisted Twin. I love the engine just hanging there from the frame. Have a little faith in me you will be pleased with how my build turns out, Again I have 8 months in to this already.

Cheers
Mike

- - - Updated - - -

Mishimoto MMODP-12125B Black M12 x 1.25 Magnetic Oil Drain Plug : Amazon.com : Automotive

This is what I bought and it works great.



1. I bought the 12mm x1.25 Aluminum Oil plug off Amazon for 20 dollars
2. I cut it down so it would fit. The magnetic part is very hard so i just snapped it off.
3. Sanded/ground it off smooth
4. Now it is the correct depth
5. Test fitting.
6. Marked the center
7. First used a ⅝" drill bit to remove most of the material
8. Bought a ⅝" Forester bit (it is for woodworking but for this one time it will cut the aluminum)
9. Keeping the drill press vice and table in the same place and just swapping bits keeps it all squared up. Drilled the forester (flat bottom) the depth needed. (the depth was just a bit deeper than the metal on the temp switch)
10. Finished drilling
11. Test fitting
12. Sanded off the top with ruff grit sand paper for a better gripping surface
13. Mixed up the JW Weld
14. Applied it to the face of the temp switch, then pressed it in to create a good bound
15. Filled in the sides unto the top of the sensor.
16. The brand of the plug.
 

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Discussion Starter #26


Next item completed was to sand off the extra material off the CBR600RR brake calipers. If your going to do this up grade you need the correct calipers there are two models that come on the CBR600RR front ends you can find on eBay. You want the smaller, flat backed type. The others are too big and you cannot remove the needed material. The white arrows pointing to the correct model. Numbers 4 & 6 show this flat backed caliper best. 5 Shows there curve that makes this one recognizable in a eBay posting.



Removing the needed metal off the calipers


Steps:
0. I did not get a photo of this step. I had the wheel on the fork and used a awl to scribe a line on the caliper using the spoke that was over lapping the caliper.

1. I used a angle finder to find the degree I need to set my belt sander table. Then "SLOWLY" removed the material on both calipers to get the clearance I needed so the spokes would clear. I put the calipers back on many times to make sure I only removed the minimum amount. I did not remove all the metal that I scribed on the caliper from the spoke overlay. I just removed enough for the spokes to clear.

2. Angle achieved.

3. After the 80 grit belt sander I hand sanded the small bevel. It was still hitting this part of the caliper.

4. This shows how much of the caliper metal was removed.

5. Showing the close clearance of the spoke and caliper.

6. The wheel spins freely, I will wait to paint the sanded part off until the dry build is done and an actual ride is completed to make sure I do in fact have enough clearance.



Spinning Freely
 

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Discussion Starter #27


I clean out all the wires out of the back end of the bike.

The next part I am going to tackle is to get the under seat organized.

1. Moved all wires out of the area

2. Started making a templet out of cardboard.

3. Made one side fit then traced it onto another piece of paper flipped it and traced it onto the other side of the cardboard.

4. Front fits in cardboard form, metal one will need some fine tuning

5. Now for the back.

6. Much easier to do then the front

7. Both fit with ease. I am not a welder so I will fasten them using bolts then have my friend weld them up later.

8. Next to figure out how to best get them all to fit.
 

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I just fell in love with the look of the Twisted Twin. I love the engine just hanging there from the frame. Have a little faith in me you will be pleased with how my build turns out, Again I have 8 months in to this already.
you know moto guzzi used that arragnement for years and they are way way way better bikes. The guzzi engines are prettier and their frames are better too.

I have about as much faith as I am going to have in anybody working on a Cx500. You seem to know your way around a workshop so no doubt you are already ahead of the people that usually pick this platform. however, it's a lot of work in a worthless bike. Still I wait to see what comes out.

Honda proved you can have a pseudo performance motorcycle come out of the cx500. However the turbo and sport models had major revisions to the frame design that don't translate easily to the standard cx500 cruiser frame. I have yet to see anyone putting honda's engineering to good use in building their racer, maybe you are different.
 

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Discussion Starter #29


Found this on eBay:
This is a NOS Honda Stanley Headlight Bulb Unit for the Honda Bikes listed below. The part number 33120-431-505 which 33120-431-671, 34901-MC7-601AH & 33180-422-003 purchased separately are cheaper then bought as a whole so this is the same at a cheaper price. It replaces the original discontinued bulb 33120-425-671 also will work in place of 33321-505-003, 33321-568-671, 33321-634-671, 33321-371-672 and 33321-341-701. It is 60/55 Watts instead of 60/50. I will be a little brighter on low beam. It is in excellent condition.

Basically it is an upgrade that allows you to use a H4 bulb instead of have to find and replace the while headlamp assembly.




1. The rear of the original assembly
2. Took it all apart
3. Matching up the new headlight bezel. it can only go in one way.
4. Went back back together very nicely
5. It does have a flat front
6. Old and new and showing it uses a H4 bulb
7. Bulb inserted
8. Rubber boot installed
9. Completed unit ready to be installed on the bike.

Added bonus it was NOS.
 

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Discussion Starter #30


Next was to shorten the wires to the Flasher Unit



Cut shorter with new plastic insulated covers.



The newly layer out wiring system. I removed the stepped shelf in the second seat pan area, that was going to hold the battery. I am now going to put the battery in the tail section.



Close up



Second rely wired in with shortened wires, The one on the right bottom side of the photo. This one is for the USB powerpoint and the electronic fan upgrade.

I will wrap all the wires with the black wiring harness plastic non sticky tape, when I am happy with all the connections.
 

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Discussion Starter #31
Rear Brake Reservoir Holder



I could not decide where to locate my rear brake reservoir. I thought of mounting it up by the rear shock then maybe by the carbs. Then came up with this idea. I am not 100% on it. It does block the open frame. But for now this is the location.

1. Making a template to see if it even fit.
2. The thickness of the metal bar was the same as the original spacer. Bonus!
3. Leaving no chance for a mistake using the guard for a drill guide.
4. Measuring the angles
5. I found if I used the aluminum angle in my vise I get very clean unmarred bends. I use a copper hammer to bang the metal. Again leaves no trace of being tapped by the hammer
6. Checking fit.
7. Attaching the reservoir.
8. Fitting the brake hose.
9. Looks good ready to mount it on the bike.
10. Mounted
11. It is mounted and has enough room that I will not hit it with my foot.
12. It needs something.
13. Off to the computer to draft up the hole alignment. So much easier than doing it by hand. Then I just glue the paper to the metal center punch the metal.
14. Drilled it
15. Now it blends in more with the shield bracket



Close up of the reservoir.
 

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Discussion Starter #32


Need to re-lace the rear wheel to make sure it fits and a lines properly.





Easy if you know what you are doing. 7 years thru high school and collage working in a bike shop pays off.





Also got my drilled disc back. Only to realize I want I trim it down. It is too big. It covers too much of the spokes. Need to buy another one and make it smaller then have it re-drilled.







It fits like a glove. I did not even have to dish the wheel. Next I need to get the spacers for the rear axle.
 

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Discussion Starter #33


I bought a 2007 Hayabusa rear brake caliper, this is will be the easiest brake to mount on the rear disc conversion I am doing. The stock GL1000 is just to big, and the 1980 CB 900 would take a lot of work too.

1. Looks as though I needed new pads!
2. Bought my own Ultra Sonic Cleaner. So worth the money. Just drop them parts you need clean wait 45 min and done.
3. Super clean parts.
4. Taping off the parts for painting
5. More bits to cover
6. Polished all the other bits
7. Hanging ready for the ceramic paint
8. First coat
9. Final coat, now to wait 7 days to cure, then 1 hour in an oven to bake at 200° to fully cure and harden the paint. I used Dupi-Color Ceramic Caliper Paint.





Dry enough to remove the masking tape. Got a bit of over spray that I need to remove on 2 spots.



I was looking at the newly painted caliper and realized that the anchor tab would end up on the side I could not use it. Crap I now need to cut it off before I cure the paint in the oven. Kind of starting over.

1. Noticed the anchor tab was useless.
2. Cut the tab off.
3. Sanded it down on the belt sanded with an 80 grit belt. Went slow as to not overly heat up the aluminum.
4. More shaping.
5. I noticed the other side did not line up smoothly, decided to make it nicer than stock.
6. Hand sanding with 220.
7. Now both sides will mate up very nicely.
8. Caliper with no extra tab.
9. The mounting bracket that will be made out of ⅜" will now have the anchor tab.

After this step I reapplied more masking tape and lightly sanded the whole caliper cleaned it off with mineral spirits then wiped it down with a clean rag then applied the three coats of paint. To now wait another 7 days to cure before I can finish cure the ceramic paint in the oven.


Another week has passed, Time to finish the paint on the caliper by baking it in the oven for an hour @ 200°.

Finished
 

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Discussion Starter #34
Got my "Murray's Carbs" last night. Sweet set up for sure!



I am going to polish up the intakes when I do the rest of the polishing.


Nice and Clean 2 to 1 connector!

These are going to make my bike the envy of the neighborhood.

 

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Discussion Starter #35 (Edited)


I made the second rear set bracket. A little more information in how it was made.
1. Measure the hole to be drilled from the clean edge of the metal bar.
2. Drilled the hole at 8.8mm, then tapped it to the 10x1.25 thread pitch.
3. Making sure the threads are clean and are ready to use.
4. Screw the metal original tab to the newly tapped metal bar, then mark the outside edge with a awl or a carpet knife. Ant thing to make a score in the metal surface.
5. The scores in the metal
6. Next cut out the shape. I could not find my metal band saw blade so I use a hacksaw.
7. Shape ruffly cut out.
8. I used a angle grinder to shape it a touch more before mounting it back to the metal tab.
9. SLOWLY used the stationary belt sander with a 60 grit belt to shape the metal to match the tab.
10. Using the metal tab as a guide to shape the metal to match.
11. Dropped the table on the disc sander to 45° to create the bevel to the penciled line I marked previously.
12. Finished the second bracket. Still need to sand the one on left.

Making the second on was much faster and easier. I will post later when I grind down the frame for these to fit.



I practiced welding on a few scrapes of steel until I felt ready to tackle the foot rest tabs.

1. Stripped down the frame, ready to tackle the tabs.
2. Figuring out how much I need to cut off the frame, to allow for the tabs to fit.
3. Marking the frame to know where to cut.
4. Slowly removed the metal making sure I only removed what was needed. Kept clamping the rear set in place to make sure I was on track.
5. Rear set clamped in place and the fit is good.
6. Cut the other side.
7. Clamped the rear sets in place, double checking the fit and making sure they were set at the same position, equal height from the floor.
8. Ready to clean off the paint area around the weld area.
9. I used paint remover then used a wire wheel brush to get it clean.
10. Foot rests clamped into place ready to tack weld them in place.
11. My welding was a little rough, the second side came out much cleaner. Had to adjust the temp and wire feed, the thicker metal needed more heat.
12. Cleaned up nicely and I got full penetration. The welds were very clean under the slag.
13. Other side cleaned up.
14. Checking to make sure the tabs stayed in place and the alignment was still correct.
15. Right side fits very well.
16. Left side complete. And fits perfect.

Not too bad for my first time.



Wheel Spacers Complete.
1. Started by cutting off 21mm & 16 mm lengths ( this is the rough cut off of the spacers, later I used the drum sander and sanded them down to the finished width) of a 32mm aluminum rod. Find the center of the rod, this part is very important.
2. I bought a 20mm boring bit off Amazon. The Bosch T15020 Hinge Boring Bit Carbide Tipped. This is a bit for boring wood but if you go VERY slow using a lot of aluminum cutting oil in a drill press it will cut thru the aluminum.
3. Almost through the first spacer.
4. Finished.
5. Dropped the drum sander to 45° to create the bevel on the leading edge.
6. The first spacer done.
7. Cutting the second spacer.
8. Both spacers roughly done.
9. Made a holder to be able to put the spacers in the drill press so I could sand them smooth very quickly and accurately.
10. Right side finished.
11. The spacers in place, and there is no spoke rub.
12. Left side finished.

Taking time to bore with the carbon tipped bit, worked very well. the fit on the axel is very tight.

I can now tackle the brake disc holders.
 

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Discussion Starter #36 (Edited)
1. I needed to get the rotor centered in the calipers, I did not want to bother hooking up the brake lines just yet. So i placed the rotor in the caliper and use compressed air to expand the brake pads to center the rotor in the caliper so I could take some needed measurements.

2. Left Side

3. Right Side

4. Measuring the space between the hub face and the rotor.

These measurement are needed to start the making of the hub spacer to hold the rotors to the wheel.

This is what the measurements were for, I am having the adapters laser cut out of .75" flat stock aluminum.

The small holes will be cut out the the sizes required for thread tapping. The right one I will drill out so the bolt can pass through the adapter. But this way the holes will be perfectly aligned.

After the flat stock is cut I will machine down the face for an exact fit

1. Mechanical drawning completed, I drew it up in Adobe Illustrator taking many measurements with digital mm calipers.
2. Laying the rotor over my printout to make sure my measuring was correct. (it was right on)
3. Checking it on the hub. I cut out the holes on the hub with an e-xacto blade knife. (lined up perfect)
4. Showing how awesome the large rotor and spoked wheels will look!

1. Spacers are complete. Outside View. The smaller hole in the top spacer will have a dust seal in it.
2. Back view of the spacers, The top spacer has a pocket that will skirt the edge of the bearing keeping it place, The other side has a lock ring. But now that the speedometer bracket is no longer on the in this build so there would be no way to lock this bearing.
3-5 How it fits together.
6-9 Assembling the spacers
10. Attaching the rotors.
11. This should have been before 7
12. The axel with the spacers.
13-16 The completed front disc spacers.

After I assembled the the front disc spacers I realized that I did not like the way the left spacer was thicker than the left. So I took it off and used my router to slowly remove the material 1/32" of an inch at a time.



Right spacer, the one I wanted to match.



The left one sized down to match the right.



Showing the two different sized spacers before the resizing.



Showing the two spacers now equal in size. So much better.
 

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Discussion Starter #37 (Edited)


The after rotor is so much better in proportion to the size of the rim. Worth the time and money to get it right.

Cheers
Mike
 

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Discussion Starter #38 (Edited)


1. Going to tackle the rear spacers.
2. To get the rear wheel firmly on and make sure the the inner spacer is the right length.
3. Measure the distance for the spacer on the left side.
4. Had to adjust the inner right spacer three times to get it right.
5. The spacer made and fitted. Cut it long then sanded it down for a tight fit.
6. After tightening the main bolt to 29 foot pounds made the need for a extra small spacer/washer.
7. Spacer finished, much better rotor size than stock.
8. Tight fit too on the right side.
9. Wheel is now perfectly centered too.

Next is to make the rear caliper bracket.



It was to late last night to compile the other set of photos, Posting late last nights progress.

1.Tracing the original caliper bracket.
2. Made spacers to hold the caliper off the rotor, this way I do not have to worry about the gap distance of the caliper clearing the top of the rotor.
3. Simply traced old bracket with long enough sides to be able to mark the distance of the axle spacer.
4. Caliper in place with the spacers holding the caliper off the rotor and distance off the axle spacer.
5. Close up of the top spacers.
6. Slipped on the second part of the template to mark where the axle would be on the bracket.
7. I now have the measurements of the bracket, started to draw up the template.
8. Have the second template, now to see if it needs adjusting.
9. Mock up in place, I want to move the brake rod lower. Closer to the angle of the original.
10. I am going to have to have the bracket machined to allow the bracket to transition from center of the axle spacer to the outside of the caliper.
11. The card board spacers gave me the perfect clearance.
12. Back view
13. Redrew the bracket to get the brake rod lower.
14. The 3 templates made to get it right.
15. Much better placement of the brake rod.
16. A big hurtle achieved this evening.

Close up of the new bracket.



Side View



This is how the bracket will have to be machined to make the best fit.



After sorting out the measurement from the flat piece of card board



1-2 First attempt
3-4 Second attempt with much better results.

I made a 3D mock up out of cardboard I had to remake it a second time the first one was sloppy and could not be used for accurate measuring.



1. Showing the remake of the second bracket
2. Took a lot long to make the second 3D mock up
3. Front Side
4. Completed cardboard mock up
5. Drilled the lower holes on the drill press much easier than cutting out with an exacto knife.
6. The metal spacer was made earlier to find the spacing for the axel. This will be replaced when the bracket is machined out of a solid block of aluminum.
7. The aluminum spacer is square in the cardboard, we are ready to mount it all up and get thee final measurements.
8. So far it clears the hub and rotor bolts.
9. Mounting up the caliper
10. Caliper is on.
11. Brake rod fits and is giving the cardboard bracket stability.
12. Good clearance, side to side and at the bottom of the rotor.
13-16. Different angles of the mock up bracket.



Here is my final draft of my rear caliper bracket, I am dropping off the drawing tonight. Should have it back in 1-2 weeks depending on his schedule.




The rear brake caliper holder is now being milled.





1. Mounted the caliper to the axle checking the spacing.
2. Ended up needing to add a thin spacer, between the caliper bracket and bearing spacer.
3. Bent the caliper arm to aline up with the old frame mounting point.
4. The bend in the caliper arm. It was bent before but had to add more.
5. Tightened it all up.
6. Centered perfectly
7. Hooked up the temporary brake line. Going to buy the braided stainless steel lines.
8. Bled the brake, did not work at first then realized that it had a second bleeder on the inside. After the two sides were bled it worked beautifully.
9. All dialed in and working awesome.

 

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Discussion Starter #39


1. Mounting the rear tire.
2. Slowly edging on the tire
3. Mounted.
4. Front mounted too.

Needed to get them mounted so I can get the seat height right.



Front View



Left Side

 

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Discussion Starter #40


After playing with the photo I took I learned a few things I need to change.





Now to see them in action. LOL



Muffler Location
 
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