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Taking a look at the racing history would be very helpful with getting to where it seems you want too go. If you want to get the best from the bike and have a full fairing. then you need to figure out how to put a fairing on this.
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woo (1) (1).jpg

we modified this kz1000 frame quite a bit lol everything from the engine cradle back is cromoly
it was the fastest privateer superbike in camel pro that year
the late john woo on his way to spanking half a dozen factory riders and bikes garnering 4th at sears point 1982 although disqualified for being 3 lbs under weight post race


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crosbies ride
my opinion is modern wide 17'' wheels do not belong at all on a super replica .period
neither do upsidowners
fuck all that as soon as you do that it no longer is a superbike
fact is if you are on the street you dont need it and it wont give you as thrilling a ride as you will have with period correct rubber size
 

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Take the 19 off it....now what's wrong.
you get my drift nothing except the owner has an overly short front fork travel fetish like all the rest of the drones
c'mon less than 3'' of up travel without a rider is not good
and by having the front so low he loses over 2'' of ride height which will be a bitch the engine side xases will hit the floor
 

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Discussion Starter #50
So, ordered the Dynoman kits (pistons, rods, camshafts, etc. CR carb... HD stud kit and Ohlin rear shocks... to start and save on shipping). question for the group; is it worth it to swap out the cam chains and tensioners? the ones in there are in great shape and i can't find any opinions from other build projects one way or the other. Second question, which i think i know, but do i need to balance the crankshaft? thanks.
 

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I would say that if it were me... I would err on the side of caution and replace the chain at least... if you're putting that much money into it, whats a chain. Are you sure the tensioners are ok?
As for balancing, that depends on what your new rods and pistons weigh relative to the stock ones.
 

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PS... the heavy duty stud kit. The stock studs had more engineering in them than meets the eye. They have some give to accommodate expansion of the cylinder block, head,etc. They were designed that way to prevent the gaskets from being squished over time and leaking. Not saying you shouldn't use them, but you "may" get some oil weeping out of there later down the road.
 

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Discussion Starter #53
i'm assuming the new pistons and rods will weigh more given it will increase the bike to an 890cc. however, I'm sure it also has something to do with the composition of the metal, etc... so, won't really know the answer to weight question until I get in there.
 

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as to your question about timing chain and tensioner: I'd replace. The originals when neglected will saw the engine in half, and even if yours wasn't neglected those tensioners have a shelf life of like 15 years and every one is on borrowed time. Its just one of those while you are in there it makes sense to do things.
 

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what would you recommend; 29mm, 31mm or 33mm Keihin CR carbs?
I would say that would be dictated by what else you are doing to the motor. Any modification to the head? What cam are you using? What sort of riding are you going to do.... only on the street? If you only ride it on the street then that is a major deciding factor if you want any sort of reasonable drivability. Since you are buying the cam etc from Dynoman, I would tell them what you think you want and they "should" be able to tell you what works best. IMHO trying to jet an engine that is suffering from over carburation is pretty much like chasing moonbeams.
 

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what would you recommend; 29mm, 31mm or 33mm Keihin CR carbs?
Smaller carb will work more efficiently at lower engine speed such as you would experience in street riding,
if you were looking to set a land speed record and don't care if the thing stumbles and farts at low revs you would want the largest carburetor.

The right size carb is probably the same size that was on it unless you somehow installed bigger valves :|
 

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not knowing the tolerances the factory used for balancing the reciprocating assy i would have it done. cheap insurance to replace the chains while the engine is apart. i know Ohlins make a decent unit but its still off the shelf where units from folks like Race-Tech are custom built for your bikes specific geometry, weight and your riding style. you'll want their emulators in the forks, too. as for strengthening the frame there is some good info here https://motochassis.com/articles/ i also highly recommend his book along with the two volume set by John Bradley: The Racing Motorcycle. btw, before you let anyone do a "port and polish" pick up a copy of Engine Airflow by Harold Bettes so you can have an informed discussion with whomever you choose to do the cyl head
 
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