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Discussion Starter #63
Alrighty then... Performance parts have started to arrive. Still waiting on the camshafts, pistons and rods as these are fabricate to order parts.
Performance Parts.jpg

Let the tear down begin...
Breakdown_1.jpg breakdown_2.jpg
 

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We don't even need to see your face to see the kid on Christmas morning grin. That much new fun in a pile of boxes, I'll bet for a while you forgot all about the Visa bill that will follow them home.:rolleyes: Yes I'm jealous Ohlins and Keihin are two of my favourite words.
Performance Parts.jpg
 

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Small detail, but when you go to replace those studs, keep in mind that the rear ones get very close to the main oil gallery that goes across the upper case. It isn't unheard of to have a bit of porosity in the case in that area. If so, oil will find its way up the threads of the stud and down the front of your cases. That could spoil your fun seeing it happen on a fresh rebuild.... plus some folk assume its the base gasket leaking and that can lead to further heartache. It was common on the first batch of the DOHC 4's and the CBX as well. The factory started using thread sealant and the problem went away. So... make sure you use thread "sealant" not thread locker. I use stuff from Loctite, if I can find (and still read the # on the tube), I'll post it. All I remember at the moment is what it smells like and it stinks.
 

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Discussion Starter #66
thanks! Thread sealant was a primary recommendation of this group on my last build. so, will continue to follow that advice.
 

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Discussion Starter #67
this stuff does make me smile. but i'm pretty jazzed about the new electronic ignition system you see there. and yes, that CR Keihin... looking that over and noticed a lot less of the bullshit you find on the CVs; no drain plugs, hoses, etc. The big grin, however, will come when I unbox those shiny pistons and rods.
 

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thanks! Thread sealant was a primary recommendation of this group on my last build. so, will continue to follow that advice.
Last build ?..... sorry for repeating myself. I didn't realize you were the fellow that tackled that 900C. How did it end up BTW.... as far as the chain part goes?
 

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Discussion Starter #69
Chain conversion turned out "ok." chain travel is relatively unencumbered, and I've installed a chain guard on the pivot point to protect everything (in place of a chain tensioner). put newer wheels on and have put about 50 miles on it without an issue. overall, i'm happy with the outcome, but right now, it sits in front of me to remind me of what NOT to do with this build. here's a picture of the finished project.

Final_back.jpg Final_Front.jpg Final_Left.jpg Final_right.jpg
 

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I fucking love the black and gold, well done sir
 

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Well I still question your sanity, but you get my vote for the official CafeRacer.net Tenacity Award for soldiering on in the face of adversity..... and actually completing a major project.

BTW I have done a few things that make me think I am eminently qualified to question your sanity.

Stamped steel.jpg Detab.jpg
 

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Discussion Starter #73
only included the pics of the 900C build upon request. Getting back to the 750F build. the one I hope to really win your respect on. on the racing bikes, I see a different style clutch cover/actuator. is this a hydraulic clutch v. Dry Clutch. any ideas on where to find those? custom and racing cycle sites I've looked at don't have these for DOHC engines, but I see them in some of the racing bike pictures.
 

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only included the pics of the 900C build upon request. Getting back to the 750F build. the one I hope to really win your respect on. on the racing bikes, I see a different style clutch cover/actuator. is this a hydraulic clutch v. Dry Clutch. any ideas on where to find those? custom and racing cycle sites I've looked at don't have these for DOHC engines, but I see them in some of the racing bike pictures.

The point is you learned something.

Now, the original HRC Freddie Spenser bike used a "dry clutch" setup from AHM that once was available but that has since been discontinued and if you find one - buy a ton of lotto scratchers because your luck is that good. Some race bike parts suppliers have made small runs of them over the years, but the only one that is still currently being offered is probably more than your bike is worth:

https://www.neateracing.com/shop/honda-cb1100-dry-clutch/


Now there are hydraulic clutch conversions that are a little more wallet friendly:

https://japan.webike.net/products/9726709.html

It's still a stock wet clutch, just actuated by a hydrualic ram.
 

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Discussion Starter #76 (Edited)
Continuing the breakdown
breakdown_3.jpg Breakdown_4.jpg

Not that I'm worrying about looks before function, but when I have the engine in its component parts, I figured it would be the best time to get that aluminum polished up. Any products/ideas you have worked with that work for that sort of thing?
 

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Discussion Starter #77
New question for you all. I had some clutch slip no my 900 and so installed plates and heavy duty springs (4 of them). now, I can't get the clutch to disengage, even with adjusting the actuator screw. When replacing regular clutch springs (OEM) with heavy duty springs, is there a trick to it? do I have to drop a plate set? I've ordered the extra plus 1 Barnett plates for this project, but figured i'd start seeing what i'm up against while at the same time fixing a slipping problem.


thanks.
 

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New question for you all. I had some clutch slip no my 900 and so installed plates and heavy duty springs (4 of them). now, I can't get the clutch to disengage, even with adjusting the actuator screw. When replacing regular clutch springs (OEM) with heavy duty springs, is there a trick to it? do I have to drop a plate set? I've ordered the extra plus 1 Barnett plates for this project, but figured i'd start seeing what i'm up against while at the same time fixing a slipping problem.


thanks.
What does the lever feel like when you pull it in?

Can you remove all of the slack with the adjusting screw ( the one on the clutch cover that presses up against the release bearing). I don't have a manual, so just going from memory.

Maybe your adjusting sequence? Slack off both ends of the cable. Adjust the screw in the cover. Turn in till it touches and back it off whatever the manual says..probably 1 turn and lock it. then adjust the cable at the bottom until it has the specified freeplay and then take care of whatever is left at the lever.
 
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