The plate and basket the springs push against are not very flexible so I can't see warpage as such happening but I'm inclined to think that the heavy springs will be doing all the work and the light ones practically nothing. I would be going 3 and 3 for better distribution of the forces, at least then you won't be trying to fold parts in half.thanks Irk. follow up question; my Honda has 6 springs. if I only run 2 and leave the other 4 stock, will the clutch plates wear unevenly? or does that not matter in the grand scheme of things?
IMHO it would depend on the clutch. I have one that is fairly notorious for shitty engagement.. as in all or nothing. I find that extremely annoying, so will sift through springs to get ones exactly the same length, or shim if necessary and then adjust the pressure plate so that when it is disengaged it is running perfectly true. Not sure I agree with Trials, that rear plate is cast aluminum and would be willing to wager that with a couple of springs that are twice as strong as the others it would flex. Cause a problem? Not in the short term. Cause uneven wear to the rear plate and rear fibre? Yes.Always wondered that myself.
I reduced the number of HD springs from 4 to 2 and that seemed to do the trick. I also went back and reviewed what I purchased and my HD springs are rated for 110lbs. as the OEM are 49 lbs, I'm thinking having 4 of the HDs was simply too much pressure to overcome for the actuator. again, just my theory. which is why I dropped down to 2 HD springs and 4 standard springs. also purchased a shorter cable, which gave me more room to adjust. so, thanks for the input all.
I never had much luck getting cast aluminum with complex shapes and flanges to bend, it usually just breaks into pieces on me. ymmv.
Won't matter... either way, by the time the postman gets it to you, it will be unrecognizable. Don't want to highjack this fellow's thread anymore than I already have, but that fractured lifter plate.... I get the point you are making but.... I also know that is not your lifter plate because even though you spend you days prancing around the woods with a bucket of syrup, you know better than to remove all of the bolts one at a time until one remains and the plate snaps. Whoever did that should be sitting in the corner with that pointy hat on. Its not likely you would get much flex out of the lifter... the way its attached to the pressure plate and its ribbing would pretty much prevent that. Its the pressure plate (on the rear of the clutch pack) that would be more susceptible to uneven spring pressure. Could be that because its a multi plate and the way the clutch lifter and pressure plate are attached, grossly different spring pressures might not bother it that much, but still convinced it would flex enough to cause uneven wear.... and not a good idea in my opinion. You couldn't do that sort of thing with this or any other similar setup..... and if it was a little grabby from what I understand, the manufacturer would simply say "then just wind it up to 10 grand and let it rip"is that a beef burger made with extra hormones,
or meat like substitute materials made by a company that also produces nylon rope.
When I worked at Victory we flashed a strobe at the first dyno engine, though not at the cases so much as the heads. (Cases were billet on the first engine. Very stout) Holy cow, I would have never believed it if I hadn't seen it for myself. It was amazing how much they moved. IIRC it all started when I went to mark something on the airbox and could feel the lid hitting the pen well before it looked like the two were touching. One thing led to another and soon enough the strobe was out and the lights were off..
BTW. Watch some Vtwin cast aluminum crankcases on a running engine with a strobe. It’ll make you want to head for the hills.