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That is kind of weird that Barnett would sell springs and plates that aren't compatible. The springs get coil bound, so no room to release? That would become evident when you tried to pull in the clutch lever... as in not much travel.
 

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Discussion Starter #82
lever feels good after I removed the slack from the adjusting screw. I move the screw in until it made contact with the push plate.
 

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Discussion Starter #83
sorry, I confused you all. I put stock plates on the 900 with HD springs. nothing Barnett is going on the 900; the Barnett's I'm saving for the 750. the HD springs are pretty heavy weight compression-wise. so not sure if they are coil bound or not.
 

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How long has it been sitting? Plates just stuck together maybe? Not something those clutches are really prone to, but can happen.

I'm in a constant state of confusion anyway.
 

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On my CB750 chopper, I run two HD springs and two stock springs so I can get a bit more clutch, but not so much that I end up with a left arm like Rod Laver.
 

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Discussion Starter #86
thanks Irk. follow up question; my Honda has 6 springs. if I only run 2 and leave the other 4 stock, will the clutch plates wear unevenly? or does that not matter in the grand scheme of things?
 

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A clutch is pretty basic. Pull the clutch and the hub separates from the basket allowing the plates to slide.
Stiffer or softer springs dont determine the "release" point that allows the clutch to disengage. At least I have not noticed much.
I would check mechanism that translates the clutch wire pull to push rod movement. Maybe something fell out...
 

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Discussion Starter #89
I reduced the number of HD springs from 4 to 2 and that seemed to do the trick. I also went back and reviewed what I purchased and my HD springs are rated for 110lbs. as the OEM are 49 lbs, I'm thinking having 4 of the HDs was simply too much pressure to overcome for the actuator. again, just my theory. which is why I dropped down to 2 HD springs and 4 standard springs. also purchased a shorter cable, which gave me more room to adjust. so, thanks for the input all.
 

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thanks Irk. follow up question; my Honda has 6 springs. if I only run 2 and leave the other 4 stock, will the clutch plates wear unevenly? or does that not matter in the grand scheme of things?
The plate and basket the springs push against are not very flexible so I can't see warpage as such happening but I'm inclined to think that the heavy springs will be doing all the work and the light ones practically nothing. I would be going 3 and 3 for better distribution of the forces, at least then you won't be trying to fold parts in half.
You guys are going to absolutely love Hydraulic brake controls after dealing with cable clutches.
 

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Always wondered that myself.
IMHO it would depend on the clutch. I have one that is fairly notorious for shitty engagement.. as in all or nothing. I find that extremely annoying, so will sift through springs to get ones exactly the same length, or shim if necessary and then adjust the pressure plate so that when it is disengaged it is running perfectly true. Not sure I agree with Trials, that rear plate is cast aluminum and would be willing to wager that with a couple of springs that are twice as strong as the others it would flex. Cause a problem? Not in the short term. Cause uneven wear to the rear plate and rear fibre? Yes.
 

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I never had much luck getting cast aluminum with complex shapes and flanges to bend, it usually just breaks into pieces on me. ymmv.

this is about what I would expect to see:
 

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I reduced the number of HD springs from 4 to 2 and that seemed to do the trick. I also went back and reviewed what I purchased and my HD springs are rated for 110lbs. as the OEM are 49 lbs, I'm thinking having 4 of the HDs was simply too much pressure to overcome for the actuator. again, just my theory. which is why I dropped down to 2 HD springs and 4 standard springs. also purchased a shorter cable, which gave me more room to adjust. so, thanks for the input all.

If it was too much for the actuator, it would damage it. It is more likely a case of adjustment. You got it right when you replaced the cable. Not sure why anyone would want six 110 lb springs unless you were living at the drag strip and using an air shifter. With decent plates and new stock springs, properly adjusted those clutches will take a lot of shit.
 

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I never had much luck getting cast aluminum with complex shapes and flanges to bend, it usually just breaks into pieces on me. ymmv.

Well at the moment, the only one of that type I have is buried in the bowels of of a GL500 and the likelihood of me having it on the bench is extremely slim.... unless I get really sick of swapping belts/pulleys on the mill and decide to rob the GL gearbox and use it instead of the belts. You “may” be right but willing to wager a cheeseburger. If and when I get one on the bench, I’ll get the DDG out and measure deflection at 110 vs 49. If I’m wrong, I’ll pop a cheeseburger in the mail for you.

BTW. Watch some Vtwin cast aluminum crankcases on a running engine with a strobe. It’ll make you want to head for the hills.
 

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;) is that a beef burger made with extra hormones,
or meat like substitute materials made by a company that also produces nylon rope.
Won't matter... either way, by the time the postman gets it to you, it will be unrecognizable. Don't want to highjack this fellow's thread anymore than I already have, but that fractured lifter plate.... I get the point you are making but.... I also know that is not your lifter plate because even though you spend you days prancing around the woods with a bucket of syrup, you know better than to remove all of the bolts one at a time until one remains and the plate snaps. Whoever did that should be sitting in the corner with that pointy hat on. Its not likely you would get much flex out of the lifter... the way its attached to the pressure plate and its ribbing would pretty much prevent that. Its the pressure plate (on the rear of the clutch pack) that would be more susceptible to uneven spring pressure. Could be that because its a multi plate and the way the clutch lifter and pressure plate are attached, grossly different spring pressures might not bother it that much, but still convinced it would flex enough to cause uneven wear.... and not a good idea in my opinion. You couldn't do that sort of thing with this or any other similar setup..... and if it was a little grabby from what I understand, the manufacturer would simply say "then just wind it up to 10 grand and let it rip"

Clutch.jpg
 

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BTW. Watch some Vtwin cast aluminum crankcases on a running engine with a strobe. It’ll make you want to head for the hills.
When I worked at Victory we flashed a strobe at the first dyno engine, though not at the cases so much as the heads. (Cases were billet on the first engine. Very stout) Holy cow, I would have never believed it if I hadn't seen it for myself. It was amazing how much they moved. IIRC it all started when I went to mark something on the airbox and could feel the lid hitting the pen well before it looked like the two were touching. One thing led to another and soon enough the strobe was out and the lights were off.

Mark Bader was the engine designer. When the first engine was going to be fired he said something along the lines of "This feels like when my first kid was born. Except back then I wasn't worried about anything blowing up"
 

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I always wondered what sort of thought process would have triggered (for the first time) someone putting a strobe on an engine for that purpose. Then again, I wonder about the thought process that triggered the eating of the first Carolina Reaper and stranger yet... why a second one?

Even being billet, I would assume that they were still flexing a fair amount if the heads and barrels were swaying back and forth. I have a set of old British cases (sand cast) that seem like they might just as well be made from wood.
 

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Meanwhile back to the OP.... These are for a Honda. Hanging on the wall and haven't opened them, so don't know what they are actually rated for. Package says 15% over stock which (assuming thats accurate) would give you about 56 each instead of the 110. My manual doesn't give a rating, just a service limit for free length. I would return or toss the 110's. 15% more with new plates and adjusted properly will likely do.

Clutch Springs.jpg
 

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Discussion Starter #100 (Edited)
Thanks everyone. worked thru the clutch issues and it's running well with no slippage. but, alas, that's the 900. back to my 750F conversion. hoping you all have some good input on this one. want to add an oil cooler to the set up. my stock SuperSport did not have one. first question; sandwich style conversion, or go with the CB750c oil pan and run with that? Second question; any recommendations on oil coolers you've had success with in your builds? Lastly, do I really need to do something with my oil pump? if so, what's the recommendation? thanks.
 
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