I'm using a battery bigger than suggested I dont think that's the problem. I had it load tested. As for the other comment, I purchased the ignition switch with key aftermarket. I've had problems with aftermarket parts but I couldn't find an original Suzuki one with a key. So maybe the aftermarket ignition key switch came with a short in it. I'm currently taking off the tape that overs all the wiring and searching for any wires that are cut/shorted.Sounds like a whole lot of power going somewhere, or your battery is shorting out internally the moment you put any load on it.
... horn takes a lot more power then most realize, it's practically a dead short every time you use it.
yep. I can get the motor to turn over if I cross the terminals with a screwdriver. Ill do some more tracing but from what I can tell there Is voltage all the way to the break light which is where the wire ends.Are you getting power to the solenoid?
There is no sense redoing wiring if you don't know it's the problem. Start at the ignition and follow the power until you find where it stops.
That sounds more like the switch is in the parking light position does it not?yep. I can get the motor to turn over if I cross the terminals with a screwdriver. Ill do some more tracing but from what I can tell there Is voltage all the way to the break light which is where the wire ends.
According to the switch I got off of ebay (I know, parts can have issues and whatnot but it was only 20 bucks for a new ignition swtch). I am in the "ON" position when testing the voltage.That sounds more like the switch is in the parking light position does it not?
I saw that too on my wiring diagram. From what I can tell, the bike only has one fuse which I now Know is OK.I thought of 1 more thing, there is a fuse on either side of the ignition switch in my picture. it could be that second fuse or the actual fuse holder. if you still have problems you could use a jumper wire to bypass either fuse ( only to test it!) and might find the fuse holder has corrosion issues?