[HipsterSquid]

I sold the 440 and picked up a 750 over the weekend. Really didn't want another LTD, but this one was too clean to pass up for $800. She has 9,000 miles and the intake and exhaust haven't been molested.

Guy threw in a carb rebuild kit that he never got around to using, an extra full exhaust and some other bits. I overhauled the carbs last night. I got enough practice with he keihin cv36's that made setting the floats on this a breeze. The fact that I can tip them 15 degrees and eyeball them and have them be dead on when confirmed by floatdrop is very rewarding. I learned stuff....

Hey, does anyone have a tip for fixing a drain screw that looks like this:

Can I file it down to a nice point and hope it seals? Or will removing more material make it worse?

 

[HipsterSquid]

Oh, that last attachment was an accident (that was from when I was taking the 440 to its new owner) you know I hated that grand caravan when we got it, but Its growing on me

 

[TrialsRider]

Might want to compare the drain screw to another one, it looks like part of it is missing.

 

[HipsterSquid]

Everything is there. I replaced the o-rings on all of them, but the o-rings don't actually close the drain, they just prevent gas from leaking out the drain screw. It is the pointed tip on the screw that closes the drain (which doubles as an overflown on kehins) and as pictured, the tip is worn off

 

[HipsterSquid]

Is that a pcv valve on this bitch?i

I was all excited cause I thought I'd finally find out what a factory intake ran like.... I'm missing the fucking crankcase vent hose! Now I gotta find one with this od: NJ

and this id:

fuck my life

 

[TrialsRider]

Still better off then the previous one. First thing you should be searching for is a shop and owner manual, that will tell you all about what emission shite it had on it.

 

[dirkchecken]

hoses come off top of cam cover to that piece on top then to airbox. your missing some hose. its old so it should be replaced

 

[HipsterSquid]

I fixed the drain screws that wouldn't seal by chucking them in a drill and spinning them on a file:

since the timing advancer on the 440 was seized when I got it, I was eager to grease the one on the new bike. Look how fucking clean the 42 year old assembly was when I popped the cover

I'm keeping this bike.

 

[HipsterSquid]

Ok. I took my first ride today and I am completely underwhelmed with the bike's ability to take off. Its running perfectly, but the gearing feels like it was set up for low rpm freeway cruising. The 440 was much more fun to drive around town. The stock setup is 13/32 (630 chain)

I'd like to change the rear to about 36 teeth (correct me if I'm wrong, this will limit top speed to around 110mph)

If I do this I will probably need a longer chain too. Should I just replace it all and go to a 530 setup? Forgive my ignorance, I've never had a 5speed before and never experienced such an unsatisfactory first gear... by the time the PowerBand kicks in I'm already at 30mph in first gear. That's not very useful to me in the city...

 

[CaTacL1sm]

Just double checking....
Carbs balanced?
Carbs thoroughly cleaned? (I prefer ultrasonic)
Bike running on all cylinders?
Clean air filter?
Carb boots in good condition?
New, properly gapped plugs?
Check for proper voltage at coils
Check valve shims
Timing checked with timing light?

Don't write it off until you go through all those things first.

 

[HipsterSquid]

The only thing on your list i have not done is ultrasonic cleaning and timing light (because I don't have those. I verified that the advancer is is visually opening as is should under throttle and I assured that every passage (even the commonly forgotten 3 holes for the pilot are unobstructed using a guitar string, solvent, compressed air....

 

[TrialsRider]

... by the time the PowerBand kicks in ...

Something is wrong, a 4-cylinder 750cc engine doesn't have a narrow power band that kicks in anywhere. I would question if your engine is running on all cylinders. Compression test would be in order and verify that all 4 cylinders are getting hot.
You can't fix poor performance by gearing it lower.

 

[HipsterSquid]

Something is wrong, a 4-cylinder 750cc engine doesn't have a narrow power band that kicks in anywhere. I would question if your engine is running on all cylinders. Compression test would be in order and verify that all 4 cylinders are getting hot.
You can't fix poor performance by gearing it lower.

You were right. Only 3 of the manifolds were warm. I rode it to the dmv for a VIN inspection. Will investigate further after work.

 

[TrialsRider]

So it's basically working at half power and maximum fuel consumption. On the up side there is tons of room for improvement. Your avatar makes me want to have a beer and I rarely even drink the stuff, you're a bad influence on me

 

[HipsterSquid]

So it's basically working at half power and maximum fuel consumption. On the up side there is tons of room for improvement. Your avatar makes me want to have a beer and I rarely even drink the stuff, you're a bad influence on me

My wife told me I could buy as many bikes as I want if I don't start drinking again. Haven't had one since Christmas. This summer is gonna be awesome

 

[HipsterSquid]

Ohhhh boo! Compression is very poor. Either the cheap guage from Amazon is not reading properly or I'm way out of spec. The 3 that are firing read around 100psi and the one thats not is reading 75.

 

[HipsterSquid]

And somebody REALLY dicked up the threads on this one. HOW DOES THIS HAPPEN!!!

 

[HipsterSquid]

Ok, cleaned the plugs the one that wasn't firing was fouled. (This happened before I rebuilt the carbs and set the floats) took it around the block, its a whole different bike now. I'm not gonna worry about compression till I put a different tester on it

 

[TrialsRider]

You could check your valve clearances and see if that one lazy cylinder is way off adjust compared to the rest, but significant lower pressure on one cylinder is often a sign of a more serious problem inside that lung.

 

[Miniman2]

Carry out another compression test, note the results.
Then Carry out the test again but squirt a small amount of oil through each plig hole first.

If the compression jumps up, its your rings, if they remain low you are losing compression through your valves (either past the seats or valve gaps too tight).