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1982 kz440a
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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I sold the 440 and picked up a 750 over the weekend. Really didn't want another LTD, but this one was too clean to pass up for $800. She has 9,000 miles and the intake and exhaust haven't been molested.
Wheel Tire Land vehicle Vehicle Fuel tank

Guy threw in a carb rebuild kit that he never got around to using, an extra full exhaust and some other bits. I overhauled the carbs last night. I got enough practice with he keihin cv36's that made setting the floats on this a breeze. The fact that I can tip them 15 degrees and eyeball them and have them be dead on when confirmed by floatdrop is very rewarding. I learned stuff....

Hey, does anyone have a tip for fixing a drain screw that looks like this:
Body jewelry Finger Thumb Wood Jewellery


Can I file it down to a nice point and hope it seals? Or will removing more material make it worse?
 

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1982 kz440a
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Discussion Starter · #2 ·
Oh, that last attachment was an accident (that was from when I was taking the 440 to its new owner) you know I hated that grand caravan when we got it, but Its growing on me
 

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1982 kz440a
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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Everything is there. I replaced the o-rings on all of them, but the o-rings don't actually close the drain, they just prevent gas from leaking out the drain screw. It is the pointed tip on the screw that closes the drain (which doubles as an overflown on kehins) and as pictured, the tip is worn off
 

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1982 kz440a
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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Is that a pcv valve on this bitch?i
Hood Automotive lighting Automotive tire Bumper Automotive exterior
I was all excited cause I thought I'd finally find out what a factory intake ran like.... I'm missing the fucking crankcase vent hose! Now I gotta find one with this od: NJ
Automotive tire Bumper Motor vehicle Automotive exhaust Fender
and this id:
Hood Automotive fuel system Motor vehicle Automotive tire Vehicle
fuck my life
 

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1982 kz440a
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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
I fixed the drain screws that wouldn't seal by chucking them in a drill and spinning them on a file:
Microphone Yellow Wood Gas Tints and shades
since the timing advancer on the 440 was seized when I got it, I was eager to grease the one on the new bike. Look how fucking clean the 42 year old assembly was when I popped the cover
Tire Wheel Automotive tire Locking hubs Vehicle brake

I'm keeping this bike.
 

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1982 kz440a
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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Ok. I took my first ride today and I am completely underwhelmed with the bike's ability to take off. Its running perfectly, but the gearing feels like it was set up for low rpm freeway cruising. The 440 was much more fun to drive around town. The stock setup is 13/32 (630 chain)

I'd like to change the rear to about 36 teeth (correct me if I'm wrong, this will limit top speed to around 110mph)

If I do this I will probably need a longer chain too. Should I just replace it all and go to a 530 setup? Forgive my ignorance, I've never had a 5speed before and never experienced such an unsatisfactory first gear... by the time the PowerBand kicks in I'm already at 30mph in first gear. That's not very useful to me in the city...
 

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1982 kz440a
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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
The only thing on your list i have not done is ultrasonic cleaning and timing light (because I don't have those. I verified that the advancer is is visually opening as is should under throttle and I assured that every passage (even the commonly forgotten 3 holes for the pilot are unobstructed using a guitar string, solvent, compressed air....
 

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1982 kz440a
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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Something is wrong, a 4-cylinder 750cc engine doesn't have a narrow power band that kicks in anywhere. I would question if your engine is running on all cylinders. Compression test would be in order and verify that all 4 cylinders are getting hot.
You can't fix poor performance by gearing it lower.
You were right. Only 3 of the manifolds were warm. I rode it to the dmv for a VIN inspection. Will investigate further after work.
 

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1982 kz440a
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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
So it's basically working at half power and maximum fuel consumption. (y) On the up side there is tons of room for improvement. Your avatar makes me want to have a beer and I rarely even drink the stuff, you're a bad influence on me :LOL:
My wife told me I could buy as many bikes as I want if I don't start drinking again. Haven't had one since Christmas. This summer is gonna be awesome
 

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1982 kz440a
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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
Ohhhh boo! Compression is very poor. Either the cheap guage from Amazon is not reading properly or I'm way out of spec. The 3 that are firing read around 100psi and the one thats not is reading 75.
 

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1982 kz440a
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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
Ok, cleaned the plugs the one that wasn't firing was fouled. (This happened before I rebuilt the carbs and set the floats) took it around the block, its a whole different bike now. I'm not gonna worry about compression till I put a different tester on it
 

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Discussion Starter · #23 ·
Carry out another compression test, note the results.
Then Carry out the test again but squirt a small amount of oil through each plig hole first.

If the compression jumps up, its your rings, if they remain low you are losing compression through your valves (either past the seats or valve gaps too tight).
I am happy to report that after I did the compression test the correct way (bike warm, throttle open) I'm getting 125psi on three cylinders and 117 on the one that was reading low. Thanks for the helpful suggestions guys!

Question: I hate the cb350 bars that are one here. They are too high and wide and I feel less connected to the bike. I ran inverted clubmans on my 440 and I liked that stance much better, I am chasing the stance of my old suzuki katana 750, I felt well connected but comfortable (its considered a sport touring bike) should I go all the way with clipons and rearsets? Or do you think that's gay and I should just throw some superbike bars and call it a day? The bike has too much power to ride upright, I feel bad about mutilating it because it's all intact and would be a good resto candidate
 

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1982 kz440a
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Discussion Starter · #28 ·
x2 on the laverda adjustables. I had them on my CX500 and loved them. Highly recommend.

That being said, remember your bike is a LTD, so a cruiser model. play into its strengths. Don't try to force it into something it isn't.
What strengths? Its a raked out ******* bike designed to haul fat chicks on the back. The motor and the brakes are only good thing about this bike. Its really hard to come by the sport versions of any of the old ujm's where I live. I'd be happy with the model "e" 18" rear wheel and a tighter front end. I'm trying really hard to read about geometry before I come on here asking stupid questions but it's fucking complicated to me because I suck at math. I learn better by making small changes and feeling the difference.
 

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1982 kz440a
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Discussion Starter · #32 ·
Had totally forgotten about those bars. Some bike I had years ago had those and they were a good thing in that you could swap the ride around with just a spanner.
Looking at your bike I think that one thing you might do is swap out the forks and get rid of the leading axle. When you do,do something such as that be sure that you compensate for the change in handling. Harleyesque bikes are for the freeways thus the fork extension. You change the forks and it will quicken the turn-in.
By the way what size fork tubes are on the LTD ? Another thought is go to the AllBalls web site and check what can be swapped to your motorbike. They are a great source as to what bits can be adapted to your bike. You may be able to swap the whole front end by just replacing bearings........same with wheels. And to add to this thought used 41 mm RSU front ends are really cheap. We have used the forks from Honda SuperHawks and Africa Twins on a handful of racers and Cafe Racers. There are tons of aftermarket parts out there and it's easy to make the brakes really work well, so there is another thought.
I would also find a more sporting version of you LTD and do some measurements. You need to know how much the factory really did change the basic frame geometry. Don't let everyone turn you off to the project. I have seen a number of that style of motorbike turned into pretty respectable Cafe Racers. The plus with those bikes is that they are stable as hell without head shake. Unstable is always the hard problem to fix making the thing turn quicker a far easier issue.

Cheers
The fork tubes are 36mm, i don't really think I wanna go as far as changing the front end though. Cataclysm made me re-evaluate my priorities. I think I'm just gonna grow a beard and cut all the sleeves off my shirts and polish my chrome every weekend. So i can rock the skinny forks.

I threw some super bars on today:
Land vehicle Vehicle Bicycle handlebar Motor vehicle Motorcycle

It wasn't easy tucking that master cylinder in there. I'm gonna order a used master from a late year katana. I really liked the lever because it had a four position wheel to select lever travel. Where do you guys order really short brake hose? I need one that is about 12" long with banjos on both ends


Lol @ the previous owner's wiring for the rear turn signals:
Electrical wiring Automotive tire Gas Cable Motor vehicle

Do you see that four-way!!!??? Four spades taped together. I'm gonna save a lot of weight when I remove three of those.
 

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Discussion Starter · #33 · (Edited)
you just listed the strengths: "Its a raked out *** bike designed to haul fat chicks on the back. The motor and the brakes are only good thing about this bike"

There's the universal things to improve the bike: suspension, braces, brakes/brake lines, tires, bearings/bushings, ignition etc...
But then you lean in to the weird 80s japanese cruiser/muscle bike thing and you OWN IT. Make that bike look the part.
Like you said, it's stupid complicated to take a cruiser-framed bike and make it into a superbike or "cafe racer". Not worth the money unless you find a cheap frame and forks to swap the motor over to.

So ham it up. look at period pictures of this bike and what was done to it and roll with it.
I forgot the chrome. The chrome is it's greatest asset. Mags are cool to. Now it needs pegs and a gyro
 

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1982 kz440a
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Discussion Starter · #49 ·
What list there is no list, you stated "used 41 mm RSU front ends are really cheap"
I'm going to a good motorcycle breakers tomorrow, I'll look for forks and trees that would work for him and I'll get a their best price on anything they have that fits that description, but I can tell you right now they will cost more then your 25US$ that much will buy you 1 litre of fork oil.
It's really hard to find a front end that's not tweaked at the bone yard around here. If I could find a whole front end for 200$ I'd be all-over it.

I found an article from a 1981 issue of cycleworld that reviewed the LTD and spelled out the differences in the frame geometry between the LTD and the E models:
Kawasaki Kz750 Ltd | Cycle World | JANUARY 1981



" the LTD has a couple of frame geometry tweeks worth noting. Naturally an LTD must be equipped with leading axle forks. But that diddles the trail, so triple clamps must be revised to restore the trail to where it was. The LTD gets more than that, though. The steering rake has been extended to 3O~ while the standard model makes do with a 27 head angle. But be cause of the reduced offset on the triple clamps the trail has only increased from 4.2 in. to 4.8 in.

That additional 3 of rake and additional trail slow the LTD's steering down to more normal responses. Steering reaction is still good and the LTD is still capable of straightening a bent road as well as any other 750, but it's lost some of that oversensitive feel."

I went to the all balls site to look for front end conversions, there are a million possible options, but that's just bearings, do I need to be worried about the races too? and has anyone here ever shortened and rethreaded a stem? What did you use to cut the threads?
 

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Discussion Starter · #51 ·
I'm stupid. I meant "cups" the part that is pressed into the head, and as far as shortening the stem this was a hypothetical question, in case the donor stem is longer and runs out of thread before it's tight
 

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Discussion Starter · #55 ·
Same thing as races, mate....and if you have 'free roller bearings' look at the surface of the race/cup, if you see discolouration (grey colour meaning that the case hardening has worn) or pitting - get rid of them, but again, you should replace all with new anyway.

.....and you haven't explained the shortened steering stem......I'm curious about that. :unsure:
 

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