I use non-sealed chain on everything I can and replace them before they stretch enough to kill the sprockets. It's an elongated chain that puts fast wear on the sprockets because the pitch of the chain has changed and the forces are no longer being carried on all the teeth and all the rollers.
The different types of rubber seal they use only makes a difference in how the rubber touches the steel, one point of contact or more, but the limiting factor on all sealed chain is how well they packed the chain with grease prior to assembly, and how well that grease stays in there to displace water. It's water and subsequently rust that ultimately destroys the steel unless you physically break it which is far from easy. If you have links that bind, that is the result of rust happening where it should not be.
The purpose of lubricant on the outside surfaces of the roller chain is to prevent surface rust and that is all. That can be accomplished with oil or wax and it only requires a thin layer. You certainly don't want to put anything on rubber seals that makes the rubber swell up or that will destroy the seals and kill the chain quick. Not a great place to use solvents or lubricants that are combined with solvents and change the nature of the rubber.
The motivation for fitting a sealed chain is little to no maintenance and little to no oil fling off the moving chain, but you can't re-lubricate the sealed chain past good rubber seals any more then dirt and water can get past those same rubber seals, so sealed chain is virtually as disposable as a non-sealed chain.
Plain heavy-duty roller chain aka Race chain is cheaper, lighter and super easy to clean and re-lubricate with no danger of solvents harming the chain.
... and if all of that is too much for anybody to handle
that's why they make shaft drive motorcycles
